Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: v5 film treding help please.

This is topic v5 film treding help please. in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Neil Spreadbury (Member # 10401) on 04-25-2018, 01:57 PM:

hello all good friends hope your all in good health.

still looking after my cat, not had a lot of time with my v5.

has anyone go some advice for me on film threading.
I have a test film or two and more.
many of you have seen my pics of my v5..
I thank you all that's helped me to this far. your all great people out there.

as I say sorry for my grammar had a bad school life.
and I thank you all for understanding this.
I wish you all the best and god be with us all.
Neil.

Posted by Leo Enticknap (Member # 534) on 04-25-2018, 09:13 PM:

It'll cost you a cat picture!

Seriously, a Vic 5 is pretty difficult to misthread. It's been 8-9 years since I last threaded one, but my memory is that the only real gotcha is that if you make the top loop too big, the edge and perf area can rub against the top edge of the removable gate plate a bit, possibly putting abrasions on the SR-D track area. But even then, if you remove that plate and clean it between reels (as I always did), that's only a tiny risk.

As the intermittent loop faces away from the gate, you don't have the danger that exists with, say, a Kinoton FP-20, whereby if you make the intermittent loop too big, the film will whack the shutter housing.

Posted by Jonathan Wood (Member # 4614) on 04-26-2018, 09:07 AM:

Hi Neil,
Leo’s right , Vic 5’s are very easy to thread . There used to be some pretty good you tube videos showing you how to thread a vic 5 , it might be worth checking those out? Some people prefered to thread from the bottom up, but I always start by first of all threading around the intermittent sprocket (after making sure it is at its rest position) - then setting the top loop making sure it isn’t too big as not only can it scarape against the gate but I believe it can also lead to image instability. Then on to the sound drum and bottom sprocket. I set the intermittent loop to be a snug fit around my little finger or a Sharpie pen. Make sure there isn’t too much tension between the bottom sprocket and the take up ( if you’re using reels,) as it’ll make an unpleasant high pitched whine !
Cheers , Jon

Posted by Neil Spreadbury (Member # 10401) on 04-26-2018, 01:29 PM:

thank you both for help on this. now on youtube!.
Leo I sent you a picture of my cat buttons...
just had a reply from my vet.. saying it maybe cancer
and the steroids that's keeping him going...
so sad must go sorry.

Posted by Leo Enticknap (Member # 534) on 04-29-2018, 11:41 AM:

quote: Jonathan Wood
...threading around the intermittent sprocket (after making sure it is at its rest position)...

Good point. I found that the Vic 5's motor will often come to rest with the intermittent sprocket midway through the pulldown. More often than not, in fact: I suspect that the resistance on the intermittent shaft is what finally makes the motor stop. Unless you remember to check this by turning the motor shaft by hand until the intermittent is in dead space between pulldowns, you risk the picture jumping out of rack when you start the motor after threading.

There are some projectors that are physically impossible to thread in this condition (e.g. the DP-70, or machines with an electronic intermittent), and so you don't have to worry about this. But with the Vic 5, checking that the intermittent is "in neutral" is something you have to do at the start of every thread-up.

The other thing I liked about the Vic 5 was that if you're in an arthouse type venue that plays silent movies with live music, or running picture test loops, it's possible to thread such as to bypass the soundhead altogether - you just go straight from the intermittent sprocket to the exit sprocket, thereby reducing wear on the print and mileage on bearings. Same with the DP-70.