quote:

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No ignition

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Those were two common words at NASA back in the late 50's .

Mark
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-08-2008, 12:41 AM:
 
.then sounds like the ignitor circuit has a tired cap in it that isn't building up the charge too well or the PS's startup voltage has problems.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-08-2008, 09:58 AM:
 
Its time to E-Bay it off and get a replacement. No Joke... earlier projectors of which few total were sold are very hard to support. Were it more conventionally laid out like the current D-Cinema stuff it would be far more servicable. You may want to consoder a ZX... it should be servicable for a long time to come because of the huge number they have already sold.

Mark
 

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Posted by Ken Jablonski (Member # 4704) on 03-09-2008, 10:45 AM:
 
I spoke to a tech at Christie and they don't support it at all. They could possibly get me a used or re-built power supply from their junk warehouse. I guess the ignitor is part of the PS unit and they only dealt with it on a modular basis. Maybe a $3500 part. We bought it used for $1200 2 years ago. Budget is a big problem right now. Is the constant sparking but not starting going to hurt anything, like the bulb life? I'm running it off 208V (from a 3 phase service),the Christie guys said that should be good but now I'm not so sure. If its an ignitor cap it could be a cheap fix. I'll check that out, thanks.
 

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Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 03-09-2008, 11:46 AM:
 
Yes, the constant "sparking" but not lighting of the camp will damage the lamp and could contribute to early failure of the lamp. Have you verified the power coming in to the power supply? I am not familiar with the specific peice equipment you are asking about but it is possible in most lamp house power supplies to have power supplied to the ignitor circuit but not have power supplied to the transformers and bridge rectifier part of the supply due to a faulty contactor, breaker in the panel, loss of a leg of the three phase power. If you had a faulty contactor it is possible that it would make a connection some of the time and not others.

I have also seen problems similar to what you describe with the transformer in the power supply themselves. I have seen both an IREM and ORC (Strong) power supply where everything was changed out except for the transformers themselves and the only way we were able to rectify the problem was to change out the entire supply.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-09-2008, 12:10 PM:
 
The constant sparking may eventually toast the ac to high voltage step up transformer inside the ignitor as well. Consider looking for another used projector of the same make since your lamp is probably good anbd keep this opne around as a parts unit. Manufacturers discontinue support for many reasons... sometimes the frame(Make) the projector was built on is just not reliable or parts may be discontinued, etc.

Mark
 

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Posted by Mitchell Dvoskin (Member # 751) on 03-09-2008, 02:59 PM:
 
In the same booth as Ken's the Electrohome Roadie, is a 35mm projector that is used aprox once a week for foriegn/art films. It has a 1970's vintage Christie Console that does something strange. When you turn on the bulb, it immediatly lights for a few seconds, shuts off for a few seconds, and then re-lights and is fine for the remainder of the show. In both cases, it strikes at the first attempt. Not really a problem, but seems strange that it does this.
 

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Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 03-09-2008, 03:20 PM:
 
Have you tried changing the lamp on this one?
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-09-2008, 03:36 PM:
 
Its not necessarily a bad lamp... one thing to consider is the operating current. If the lamp has alot of hours on it increasing the operating current will aid it in stabilizing and staying lit. Its normal to increase the operating current every few hundred hours not only to keep light levels constant but also due the increase in the gap between the electrodes.. IE: The tungsten vaporizes with use and the gap distance increases... for the lamp to operate properly its also going to need a slight increase in operating current.

Mark
 

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Posted by Ken Jablonski (Member # 4704) on 03-09-2008, 04:44 PM:
 
On the 35mm lamp problem is there a direct adjustment for operating current?
 

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Posted by Scott Christopher (Member # 834) on 03-10-2008, 03:11 AM:
 
If it's auto-strike it sounds like you have a high enough 'no-load' voltage. Check your diode bank and all connections. Last week I had a similar problem and I found 1 diode was dead. Once all diodes were replaced, it would run on first strike.
 

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Posted by Ken Jablonski (Member # 4704) on 03-12-2008, 08:51 PM:
 
Thanks,
I'll check the diodes on the 35mm.
The "no strike" Electrohome worked great tonight and looks really good. It just took a few dozen strikes before it stayed lit.
Makes me crazy.
KEN
 

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Posted by Ken Jablonski (Member # 4704) on 03-17-2008, 01:24 PM:
 
Today I looked into the digital projector "No Ignition" problem and found 2 things. Its a modular unit. The service manual is all module replacement oriented (bummer). The diagnostic chart points to the Lamp Power Supply Module. This is no longer available but they might have a used one in their storage (for $3500). The voltage going to the unit reads 209VAC but the connector to the module looked a bit corroded. I cleaned and lubes the MOLEX with Penetrox A and so far its been starting on the first 5 sparks. Could just be luck today. I'll give it some time. I tried to read the lamp supply voltage with the lamp module out but it just popped the reset on my Fluke meter. What's up with that? Should only be a few hundred VAC.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
KEN
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-18-2008, 12:10 AM:
 

quote: Ken Jablonski

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I tried to read the lamp supply voltage with the lamp module out but it just popped the reset on my Fluke meter. What's up with that? Should only be a few hundred VAC.

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