Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: BARCO SERIES 1 DP3000 PROBLEM

This is topic BARCO SERIES 1 DP3000 PROBLEM in forum Digital Cinema Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by David J Hilsgen (Member # 2614) on 11-03-2015, 01:20 AM:

Can't get above 400 hrs on any 6k lamp i stick in this projector, they become hard starting or go dark.and it's blame game between barco & all the different lamp manufacturers i have tried.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 11-03-2015, 05:02 AM:

Haven't seen this problem, although the DP3000 has plenty of issues. They do like LOTS of exhaust airflow, have you had airflow measured with the ducting connected? Some exhaust blowers measure high flow with an open duct but choke on the restriction when attached.

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 11-03-2015, 06:37 AM:

Just because it sounds familiar...have you checked the arc stabilization magnet? And agreed that I'd check exhaust. For a 6KW lamp, I'd shoot for an 800 CMF exhaust...6KW has a lot of heat. That said, I have a site that has zero problems with a "modern" Barco getting over 1000 hours on a 6KW lamp with just 600CFM of exhaust.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 11-03-2015, 09:06 AM:

Even 800 seems low to me. It may be what Barco recommends but 1000 at least would seem more like it. I use 600 CFM Fan-Tech's on projectors that are running 2kw lamps. And larger Fan-Tech's going up from there. We rarely ever see any early failures except in non-Ushio locations. '

Mark

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 11-03-2015, 09:25 AM:

I think I have seen some DP3000 with a stuck lamphouse inside. Barco have always been very easy going on temperatures. They will only shut down when temperatures are very high.

Mark, the extract on a Barco is not extracting directly from the lamphouse, but from the surrounding area. This is particularly true on a DP3000 where there is quite a lot of space between the lamphouse and the actual exhaust. Fans inside the Barco will take care of actually cooling the lamp. Obviously if extraction is not enough then the hot air will have to find other ways to escape and the whole lamphouse will get hotter and so on.

As a rule of thumb I put my hand on top of the lamphouse cover (on the air inlet) after the lamp has been running for a while. If it's hot or, worse, if I can feel hot air being blown out, then that tells me that the extract fan is not powerful enough and the air being blown by the lamphouse has to escape from somewhere else.

Anyway back to the subject, it really depends on what/where the damage is. Any chance the lamp nuts had not been properly tightened?

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 11-03-2015, 10:21 AM:

Since it hasn't been mentioned, also check the power cabling between the breaker and projector. I've gone into a number of locations where they asked us to find out why their lamp life was awful and they used under-gauge wiring and/or the connection points were not what I would call tight.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 11-03-2015, 12:44 PM:

Agreed Marco... Most series 2 digital projectors seem to have their extraction indirectly...

Mark

Posted by David J Hilsgen (Member # 2614) on 11-04-2015, 09:51 PM:

Thanks everybody for your help, i think the problem is my dc cables they are # 2 which according to the chart i looked at ,is only good for 120 amps looked at my nec 3240 that has 2/0. im pulling 800cfm on the exhaust every thing was good on the ac side.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 11-07-2015, 11:15 AM:

The cables are not likely to be a problem, the factory wires have worked OK on a bunch of DP3000 projectors.
It is common to use "undersize" cables for short runs inside equipment. The official ampacity ratings are somewhat confusing, and are designed for unknown run lengths. The single conductor free air rating is most relevant but still wants a larger conductor than Barco put in.
For that short a run the voltage drop is trivial and the wires are in the open where they won't overheat.

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 11-07-2015, 01:03 PM:

I believe there is an info-T from Barco recommending a new wiringand terminals for the DP3000. I believe it was FOC from Barco.

Last 3000 I saw it was running at full power and the cables were very hot. Barco said it was normal though.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 11-07-2015, 01:46 PM:

Info-T 886 from 2010. This is about a DP100/2 and DP3000 DC cable rework more for the terminals than the cables from my reading, but which probably should have been done.
This one also refers to Info-T 869-B (which I can't find anywhere), an inspection procedure to see if the connections are failing.
If the wire terminals and terminal strips are normal looking - overheating turns metal black and burns wire insulation - it's probably OK.