Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Barco DP2000 Bulb Shutting Off During Show

This is topic Barco DP2000 Bulb Shutting Off During Show in forum Digital Cinema Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=002532

Posted by Kevin Roudebush (Member # 1916) on 12-29-2015, 11:52 PM:

We are continuing to experience a problem with the bulb shutting off during shows. We've replaced the filters and are on our 3rd bulb, this last one brand new. It was doing it about once a day. Now, with this new bulb, on the 3rd show today, it shut down 4 times...with the new bulb. Checked alignment and amps when putting in new bulb. Techs in the loop but no solution yet. They thought the bulb would solve it. Temp in the projection room is around 65degrees. Roof fan seems to be working fine and as it always has. Bulb lights right back up when we clear the error message on the controller. Error simply says, "Lamp Error 5324" (not positive that is the exact number) Running both 2D and 3D shows on a 4k bulb. Searched other posts and didn't see anything other than one post that talked about this being a bulb issue. Ideas? Miss a software upgrade?

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 12-29-2015, 11:58 PM:

There's not many upgrades going on for a DP2000.
I would check all lamphouse DC connections and the LPS connections and fans. Check temps after the lamp has been on for a while - especially the LPS heatsink temps: if the fans are slow or they're blocked with dust it will shut down on overheat.
Barco may be able to see something from a projector log package.

Posted by Ioannis Syrogiannis (Member # 3235) on 12-30-2015, 12:54 AM:

One of the most important part from the logs, would be the kind of error.
I wouldn't find a 5234 error and you not being possitive about it doesn't help much.
If it's 5230, it's “fcb- force lps off” and a fault on fan controller board switch the lamp off. If it's 5314 or 5344, it has to do with a disconnected/damaged sensor wire, etc.

Maybe you could be more specific.

Posted by John Roddy (Member # 7348) on 12-30-2015, 12:55 AM:

This type of issue has been one of the biggest, most annoying problems I've had to face at my main site (mostly DP1500, with a few DP2000). In ourc case, the problem was due to the liquid cooling circuit clogging up. This caused one of the blocks to start heating up to warning levels (which throws a yellow tail light). If it gets even slightly hotter past that, red tail light and instant lamp-off. For us, we got an error of Microsoft-level helpfulness simply labeled "Lamp is off due to an error." Check the projector logs for any mention of block or DMD temperatures.

The fix for it is pretty simple. You need the coolant service kit from Barco and a good supply of coolant. The manual's instructions seem to list a "workaround" instead of a permanent fix though. What I've been doing is separating the engine circuit from the heat exchanger circuit, and then force backflushing both of them. Go opposite the coolant flow direction, and pump air through the lines. Then take some new coolant, and run it through until there isn't any discoloration. The bucket I pump it into usually ends up laced with blue powder crap. It's disgusting. Do that to both circuits, fill them as best you can, then reconnect and do a full bleed. Every time I've done it that way, the projector never showed any trouble ever again.

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 12-30-2015, 03:34 AM:

The exact error code - and the logs - are crucial to diagnose an error like the one you're describing.
We should at least be able to assess if there is an external cause shutting down the lamp or if the ballasts are just shutting down.
In the latter, the blinking pattern of the LED's on the back of the ballasts will tell you what happened.

Did you check the air inlets underneath the projector, which let air to cool the ballasts? There is no filter there but in a dirty environment they can clog up pretty well!

Posted by Adam Sherwood (Member # 7802) on 12-30-2015, 07:20 AM:

could be an air lock this very much could cause you to have shutdowns , youl prop feel a fair bit of heat coming from the back if you stand behind it even after a few minutes of play

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 12-30-2015, 09:17 AM:

Without the logs, you are pretty much shooting in the dark. The DP2000 doesn't have air flow sensors...just temp (and fan speed)...if the temps go high (anywhere) it will drop out the lamp. Osram lamps are also known for going out on their own.

I'd make sure you are on the latest firmware on the DP2000 too. Lastly...since this is a 2D/3D set up...what are you doing with the lamp current between the two? Are the drop outs related to when you are running lower current?

Posted by Adam Sherwood (Member # 7802) on 12-30-2015, 09:33 AM:

yup osram so unpredictable worst thing they can go any time, which is a pitty cause when they do work they not so bad, but ushio such a beter lamp 3k osram in the dp2000 i dont think i any that actually got anywhere near full war hrs be lucky to get them past 500 hrs before they drop out. much beter perf from the ushio 3k in the barco dp200 not wure how the 4k osram perform

the last comment from steve about levels could be a bit point in right direction. if the lamp current is too low that might be why ur lamp ist staying on .. can you post the current and power info here ?

Posted by Kevin Roudebush (Member # 1916) on 12-30-2015, 11:36 AM:

Dang, I tried to be specific as possible knowing the details matter and my manager at the theatre didn't have the exact error code and wanted to post and get feedback. Now, he is sleeping since he was up late last night catching up on his work after dealing with this issue for 12 hours. I believe the error is "Lamp off due to error" in the comments.
THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK.
I think checking under the projector for clogged input is a must right now. Like the detail on the coolant system. That was something I was wondering about and that info helped. I don't think it is the bulb since we've had problems with all of them. I'll double check the amps and current in addition to making sure all the connections are good. Going to run it this morning with the filters out for a little while and see if we get the shutdown after double checking all the inlets and making sure they are clear, especially any underneath the projector (I believe all the other ones are clear, I've looked at them myself but not underneath.)

Will give an update later today. You guys are great and input is much appreciated.

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 12-30-2015, 01:24 PM:

quote: Kevin Roudebush
Going to run it this morning with the filters out for a little while and see if we get the shutdown

Why letting unfiltered air in your very expensive projector? If the filters are not clogged and were replaced on schedule, then you're ok.

Posted by Kevin Roudebush (Member # 1916) on 12-30-2015, 01:27 PM:

Came in and found the one of the two intakes under the projector caked with lint/fuzz/dust. Cleaned as well as I could without lifting if up off the pedestal Hoping that is the problem and am not too happy about it. Guess I'm too trusting of an owner that my guys are doing a good job. Have it running now and will see how it goes.

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 12-30-2015, 01:44 PM:

good news! A vacuum cleaner is the best tool for those inlets.

I don't know whether the ballasts would report a specific error for an overtemperature, I believe the projector would say "lamp is off due to an error" and then you'll get a LPS dump with some codes and in those codes is your answer! [Smile]

Posted by John Roddy (Member # 7348) on 12-30-2015, 01:59 PM:

Once the lamp has been running for about 15 minutes or so, pull up Communicator and watch the temperatures of the blocks and DMDs. Red, Green, and Blue should all be about the same (note that block and DMD temperatures will differ, but RGB for each should be really close). If all of them get very hot together, then that's likely intake air being restricted. The pump moving the coolant through the loop is enough to at least normalize the temperatures between everything, even if it can't lower it. When one starts cooking up faster than the rest, that's when it's the loop itself that's restricted.

Every time I've ever seen "Lamp is off due to an error", the cause has been an overheating block or DMD. And every time that's happened, it's been a clogged cooling loop. Of course, I have no idea what restricted air intake would do. Our site was always pretty good about keeping the airflow pure and open.

Posted by Kevin Roudebush (Member # 1916) on 12-30-2015, 03:15 PM:

Been up and running for a couple of hours now. Feeling javascript:void(0)
[puke]

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 12-30-2015, 03:32 PM:

A overheated DMD should be reported in the log. A overheated LPS not sure.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-31-2015, 02:19 PM:

I had similar issues with this and found that a spring loaded flue damper in the exhaust (for fire code reasons) had let go causing very little air flow due to the damper closing the air duct, which caused my high temp shutdowns.

I did a quick fix with wiring open the damper to get my exhaust flow back to where it needs to be and had someone come out and professionally repair the damper.

That's usually the area I check first if I have high temp bulb shutdowns...is my exhaust...just been too well trained in this area when carbon arc and xenon issues when my exhaust fan likes to let go.

Good luck, Kevin - Monte

Posted by Kevin Roudebush (Member # 1916) on 12-31-2015, 02:47 PM:

Nope... didn't work. Bulb shut off last night about 5pm. Lowered the amps and ran rest of night. Turned off 10 min into first film today. Macros set up to bump amps back up on boot. In addition, looks like we have an intermittent fan cooling the light tube. Extra fan set up blowing and that is keeping the temp down. Intermittent problems the worst.

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 12-31-2015, 04:55 PM:

Kevin: LOGS! You're shooting in the dark!

Posted by Kevin Roudebush (Member # 1916) on 01-04-2016, 08:39 PM:

Marco - I think my tech guys were looking at the logs, they just weren't specific enough to find the specific issue from what I understood. Isn't that possible?

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 01-05-2016, 01:41 PM:

It is.

But then it means that light engine, coolant, light engine temperature are not involved. Hence cleaning the filters is not going to help!

If it's a generic error then it's either the lamp or the ballast - check the led behaviour on them when the lamp turns off.

Try a different brand maybe.