Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: HDMI over CAT xx // Recommendations

This is topic HDMI over CAT xx // Recommendations in forum Digital Cinema Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Sascha F. Roll (Member # 9043) on 05-21-2016, 12:32 PM:

There's plenty of stuff available on the internet, but I doubt that a cheapo 100 USD unit will work flawlessly in a professional environment.

I was wondering if these two might work, considering that other KRAMER stuff worked more or less "OK", considering the price range they're in. Max. CAT cable lenght is ~ 30m / 100 ft.

PT 571 Transmitter: https://www.google.de/?gws_rd=ssl#q=kramer+pt-571&safe=off&tbm=shop

PT 572+ Receiver: https://www.google.de/?gws_rd=ssl#q=kramer+pt-572%2B&safe=off&tbm=shop

Any experiences on the KRAMER or other recommendations?

Sascha

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-21-2016, 01:30 PM:

I have installed the Kramer units and had no trouble. We did use the "special" Kramer STP cable in order to avoid finger pointing if it did not work as required.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 05-21-2016, 03:16 PM:

I've used a number of them and this is hands down the best one I've found.

Monoprice item #8122

This one really is good for over 300 feet. Most are lucky to work up to about 150 feet. Also there are no controls on this to mess with, unlike other baluns. This one just works. As of the date of this post the price is $171 for the set.

Note that Monoprice has one that looks identical to this, but doesn't have the distance. It is their item #6532. This item is only $40 for the set, but if you go this route just make sure your runs are well under the 200 foot length.

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 05-21-2016, 07:12 PM:

Generally, speaking, plan on using Shielded CAT5e or better. The key there being shielded. You want to avoid both their signals interring with others but also prevent other signals from interferring with them. This is particularly true if multiple cables will be sharing the same pathway for any significant distance because they WILL chatter

As to units that work...things have gotten better with time. There is a semi-standard now called HDBase-T where, in theory, ANY manufacturer's transmitter should work with anybody's receiver that boasts the HDBase-T format. In fact, some proojectors have HDBase-T inputs so you only need one end. Switchers are also now coming with HDBase-T inputs and outputs.

Brands that I've used that work include Extron's DTP and XTP line (these are going to be more money but I feel they are a better solution than most. The XTP line will maintain EDID and Key information so HDCP keys and such don't need to transfer between the source and the projector, the transmitter acts as the sink to satisfy HDCP so there isn't that pesky handshaking going on. Both DTP and XTP are available in 230 and 330 foot versions. XTP can even have Ethernet on the same cable so you can provide VGA, HDMI and an Ethernet spigot at a podium any only use one shielded CAT5e cable. The DTP systems will allow for powering one end and the other end gets its power over the CAT cable. The XTP line requires power at both ends or PoE

The next down the line that we use are Atlona. They are HDBase-T units. They should be pretty typical of other HDBaseT units with respect to moving HDMI stuff over CAT cable. They have some were you can give the user some mini controls to switch a projector to the correct mode.

You are welcome to use the ones that others have mentioned as well but again, I suggest using sheilded CAT5e cable for the best reliability.

Posted by Anders Nordentoft-Madsen (Member # 3334) on 05-23-2016, 02:55 AM:

We stopped messing around with pin-to-pin extender boxes a while ago, they are just to unstable. Use Video-to-IP solutions for all installations on our screens. Most times these boxes will even work over cat 5e. Since the use multicast it's also possible to run them over switched networks, and do 1 source -> many projectors. I only have links for danish suppliers, but Geffen makes some as well: http://www.gefen.com/videooverip/

Posted by David Buckley (Member # 2600) on 05-23-2016, 07:25 PM:

quote:
Generally, speaking, plan on using Shielded CAT5e or better. The key there being shielded. You want to avoid both their signals interring with others...

This plus a thousand.

The frequency of the data on the HDMI link is in the middle of the broadcast TV bands, and is a strong signal, and will wipe out nearby TV reception. Also, the exact frequency depends on the resolution and frame rate of the HDMI signal being transported.

From that chapter of life: things I learned the hard way. My house wiring is unscreened Cat6, and there had to be a reason why half the TV channels were refusing to be received...