Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Trouble With Loose Barco Lamphouse X-axis knob...

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Posted by Angel Tianpiboonsiri (Member # 9783) on 12-26-2016, 09:32 PM:

Anyone else have a loose knob on a Barco DP2K-12C Lamphouse before? For the life of me, I've been trying to tighten it, but it keeps causing the FLs to drop. Any advise?

Thanks!

-Angel

Posted by Marco Giustini (Member # 4544) on 12-27-2016, 04:31 AM:

What axis? Are you saying the knob turns but the shaft does not?

Posted by Mike Moreno (Member # 4887) on 12-27-2016, 04:12 PM:

i had that problem to.
you have to check the 3 axis system and maybe you have to replace the system complete because it burns on the center.
depending on the barco series (B or C) thera are spare parts kit.
you have to check on barco web site to find the correct spare part number.
Basically you replace all tha back x,y and z system

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-27-2016, 04:16 PM:

Is the 5mm Allen screw that locks the cathode adapter to the adjuster plate tight?

Seen some with the allen screw loose, or even missing - which causes focus issues

Posted by Angel Tianpiboonsiri (Member # 9783) on 12-27-2016, 05:41 PM:

A little backstory to this issue. We were changing out this bulb a few months ago - and everything went textbook as it usually does. But when I put up white light, it was as dark as a cell phone set to a dim setting. We tried multiple times to fix this issue, but were unfortunately unable to get it to work. The next morning, the lead projectionist fixed it as best as he could and managed to get reasonable light out. (We've had trouble with this projector before.) Fast forward a few months later, and we get some complaints about it being too dim on the Feature ARRIVAL which is a dark movie normallly, but it was a little worse than it should ever be. I go to try and toggle the FLs but to no avail. But I did notice that the X-axis knob was loose when turned left and if turned right, kinda just stops. Its really weird. We're just worried when we go For another bulb change this issue is going to pop up again. But I strongly believe a big part of the problem is the X Axis knob. I should have elaborated on the main body.

Posted by Gavin Lewarne (Member # 5397) on 12-27-2016, 05:41 PM:

one ive seen, on mine, is the locknut the is against the actual adjustment knob came loose the all that happened was the knob screwing in and out along the shaft, without turning the shaft. A dab of blue Loctite and a tightening of the locknut sorted it. been fine for 3 years now

Posted by Angel Tianpiboonsiri (Member # 9783) on 12-27-2016, 05:44 PM:

I'll have to take a look again and see the nut bolt you speak of. I'll post back in my findings and probably take some pictures.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 12-27-2016, 07:33 PM:

The Z-axis adjuster (lamp in/out) is a thumb nut on a threaded shaft, it screws in and out on that shaft. The cathode block has springs that push it out against the nut. That knob should not be locked to the shaft. If it won't adjust the cathode position the cathode end sliding tubes may be stuck together and unable to move in/out - you can unscrew the nut with no lamp movement and screw it in until it hits the block. The threaded rod (really just a long screw) is unlikely to turn, its hex head is locked by another piece. Those bits are not easy to get at.
Jamming usually happens after a lamp is installed with the 5mm screw loose - the cathode negative power is grounded, so with a poor connection from the DC cable power flows through the lamphouse case and the cathode tubes... that tends to weld parts together and turn the "Heim joint" swivel bushing to slag.
The X and Y axis adjusters use the same thumb nut but those are locked to their threaded rods with a nut.

Posted by Gavin Lewarne (Member # 5397) on 12-28-2016, 04:49 AM:

sorry, I was thinking of the other two which have a jam nut! Too much Christmas effecting my head I think...

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-28-2016, 08:16 PM:

Do you have another Barco "C" unit on location, for the modules for the "C" units are interchangeable with the 12C, 15C and the 20C units.

This way, do a module swap around and see if the issue follows the module.

Good luck - Monte

Posted by Angel Tianpiboonsiri (Member # 9783) on 12-31-2016, 11:05 PM:

My team and I figured out that the Lamphouse Cathode Adapter and it's assembly were not making a good contact so our Tech Enegineer finally gave in and let us order the part. I have not done this process before, so this will be an experience. The part number of anyone is interested is Z3499175K. I'm not sure if I need to start a new thread, but I'm curious to know if anyone has swapped these out before?

Also, at this point, we're only getting 6.5 FLs. Whereas earlier yesterday got a whole .8 footlamberts. Haha... [Frown]

Posted by Kristo Nalo (Member # 9748) on 01-03-2017, 06:43 AM:

I already encounter that situation and my friend help me to fix that don't know how he does that but hope I can learn it and then I'm able to do it own my own.