Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Get the dust outtathere

This is topic Get the dust outtathere in forum Film-Yak at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 01-23-2003, 09:30 PM:

I am writing for some input on what measures you may have on eliminating dust from the bio-box? I am on a mission to improve on screen presentation by going on a dust blitz.

I am sure everyone is aware of the basics, like keeping the floor clean; no food in the booth, etc ... however I am sure there are many more tips that could be of use.

I have read and implemented some of the measures suggested in the better film presentation document on this site. This included trashing all our old leaders and never letting them hit the floor during thread up.

Finally, I have been advised from someone who knows oodles more than I, that by holding a soft polish cloth in one hand and slowly winding film through on the bench, you will get most dust off a shedded print? Is there any damage (scratching) that could result if some dust has become hardened on the emulsion?

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-23-2003, 10:01 PM:

Change your HVAC air filters regularly!

Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 01-23-2003, 11:00 PM:

Although many might disagree with me, I use those cans of "Dust Off" to lightly blow away shit that might accumulate in the projectors and soundheads. I do it after each show. I found the machines are much easier to keep clean, and about once a while I just have to wipe away the oil the Simplex likes to throw around.

I never believed in those cans of compressed <something> but I am sold on them now. If you run the Christies, hardly ever do you have to use a rag or a hand towel to clean the machine. They usually stay spotless. Sure, once in a while the 'ole toothbrush comes in handy, but not that often.

Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 01-23-2003, 11:09 PM:

'Dust-Off' contains difluoroethane. [Smile]

The perfect ingredient for a frostbite fight. [evil]

Just hold the can upside down and spray.

Personally I'd never clean a print with any dry cloth. That's what dry-web media cleaners are for (and of course FilmGuard).

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 01-24-2003, 08:06 AM:

Attempting to clean a print with a dry cloth or dry media cleaner risks scratching the print. [Frown]

Even if the cloth is soft, any abrasive dirt on the print can get caught and then scratch the print. I've seen an entire print trashed by a dry media cleaner that had picked up enough abrasive dirt to look like a roll of sandpaper (in a theatre where construction dust had gotten on a print). [Eek!]

Ideally, a central vacuum cleaning system should be installed. Most vacuum cleaners and shop vacs have relatively inefficient filters that put lots of small dirt particles back into the air. A vacuum that uses a true HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filter, or a water filter to trap the tiniest sub-micron sized dirt particles is another good alternative. Where possible, wiping surfaces with a damp sponge or mop works well too.

If your booth does not have good (HEPA) filtration of the incoming air, consider the use of stand-alone HEPA air cleaners.

Here are some links to HEPA air cleaners and vacuum cleaners:

http://www.aircleaners.com/

http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/vacuumcleaners.html

http://www.airfilterstore.com/iqair/

http://www.allergybegone.com/hepvacclean.html

http://www.domotecuk.com/water.htm

http://www.beststuff.co.uk/yes_hydro.htm

Kodak recommends maintaining a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent RH in film handling areas (long term storage should be at lower humidities). At very low humidities, static charge can build up, which attracts airborne dirt particles to the film and any non-conductive surfaces the film may contact.

It's a good idea to restrict the projection room to only the people working there. Likewise, avoid using the projection room as a general storage area, which is harder to keep clean, and generates extra traffic through the area. Clean, non-linting clothing should be worn and dirty shoes/boots left at the door (adhesive door mats can be used to remove dirt from the bottom of shoes).

Cleanrooms Magazine is a trade magazine that contains articles and equipment for industries where cleanliness is very important:

http://cr.pennnet.com/home.cfm

Although showing film does not require the same degree of cleanliness as manufacturing disk drives or microcircuits, some of the principles can be applied to controlling dirt in the projection room.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-24-2003, 12:18 PM:

John, I know you are talking specifically about DRY film cleaning with extra dirty environments such as a new theater construction, but I'll challenge anyone to the ultimate test by using FilmGuard on those media cleaners for a new theater opening, construction dust and all. I've done it and the results were amazing. Even though every morning there would be a thick blanket of dust on the platter decks, the prints remained pristine.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-24-2003, 01:17 PM:

Also maintaining a positive airpressure in the booth is a good idea

Posted by Ray Brown (Member # 1449) on 01-24-2003, 01:49 PM:

I use the Shop-Vac micro attachments to clean the projector and sound head. They get into the really tight spots.
Shop-Vac Micro Attachments

I use the canned air mainly for blowing off the circuit board on our TA-10 automation. Don't like running the vacume cleaner attachments over the circuitry.

Posted by Bruce McGee (Member # 131) on 01-25-2003, 11:56 AM:

Do any of your booths have a central vacuum system? Seems that this would be a fine way to keep airborne dust away from the platters, etc.

Posted by Chris Markiewicz (Member # 1415) on 01-25-2003, 09:06 PM:

Ever since starting to use Film-Guard on the (very) used prints we get, the Christie stays nice and clean. No more crusty buildup on the gate bands, just a wipe with a soft cloth and blow any booth dust out with the canned air and it's ready to go.