Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Where to stick it? Aka jackstands on a Jaguar

This is topic Where to stick it? Aka jackstands on a Jaguar in forum Film-Yak at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=006649

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 04-08-2012, 04:14 PM:

Hello fellow weekend grease-monkeys!

I'm working on a restoration of sorts. A 1978 Jaguar XJ6 with a Chevy 350/corvette autotrans conversion.

Anyway, so I realized today how rusted some of this car really is.
Upon getting it up on the jack stands one of the jacking pegs crunched up into the pan slightly. This was on the front, driver side of the car.
I'm concerned about its integrity so I'm curious if anyone knows of a better place to put jack stands.
I was thinking perhaps under the front cross-member tough I'd feel better if the pads on the stands were flat reather than cupped for that but that point seems much sturdier.
Thoughts?
Thanks!

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 04-09-2012, 04:02 AM:

Usually the unibody has frame rails that runs lengthwise under the car - this would be the place for the jackstands. Don't use the pinchwelds being the weakest part of the unibody.

But, the axle/lower arm areas where there is solid steel is where you want the stands.

Being RWD, you can do the stands on the rear axles themselves right next to the brake assemblies-if the axles are encased in the axle tubing.

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 04-12-2012, 10:55 AM:

Monte,
it's not a unibody.
There aren't clearly defined side rails on this one.
All the documentation I've seen says you use the jacking pegs, which are fine on the other 3 points of contact. For some reason the drivers side is just rusted more.
Strange.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 04-12-2012, 01:49 PM:

Then, on the front, you'd do the jacks where the lower "A" frame attaches to the chassis, and the rear, on the corner of each rear axle next to the brake shields.

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 11-11-2012, 11:52 AM:

Monte, that worked out nicely, thanks!

At this point my project is mostly stripped down.
I'm in the process of slapping the new intake and carb on. Hopefully I'll be able to sell off the old one. It's got less than 10k miles on it but isn't CA legal.

There was much less to do on the power plant than I thought so I'll be onto the body and interior much quicker than I had expected and pleased that I've not had to put much in under the hood! woot!

Posted by Chase Pickett (Member # 5975) on 11-11-2012, 12:51 PM:

I worked on an old Jaguar a few years ago, and found the rust to be copletely insane. I had to replace or weld in new metal on nearly every inch of the damn thing. Apparently the Brits don't know how to protect their cars from how wet their own climate is. It's been German cars ever since for me because of that reason.

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 11-11-2012, 01:57 PM:

Well that's very interesting.

Looking like we're going that route as well...I've got most of the interior stripped at this point, going to pull the body and go through about the same process actually...

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 11-11-2012, 04:33 PM:

When GM introduced the "H" body in 1971 (Being the Chev VEGA, Pontiac ASTRA, Buick Starhawk and the Olds Starfire), these vehicles had the notorious problems with rust in the early releases since the zinc dips that the chassis were submerged in prior to painting, would not get in all of the 'nooks and crannies' of the unibody.

Thing would be actually having rust while on the showroom floors.