Barco D2K-15C Cooling Pump

[Andrew Freeman]

Hey everyone, long time no talk. Hope you have all been weathering the shutdowns with little to no issue. It has certainly been a struggle here; between studios dropping films on streaming, long-term shutdowns of machines, and little to no business, but I'm sure you all know that too well.

Anyways, started having an issue with our Barco D2K-15C's cooling pump, citing the error, "Pump Too Slow". So drained the system, and went to clean the pump, but to no avail, she is just gone it seems, so now we're waiting for the new pump to arrive. Any neat tips or tricks to simplify that install when the time comes?

Thanks so much!

[Steve Guttag]

There are some that have been able to change it with the light engine still installed. I have not been able to do so comfortably. Once the light engine is out of the way, the pump is quite exposed. I recommend having proper tube cutters (will have a diamond shaped cutting area so it cuts the tube square. Don't try to pull the tube off the pump. The 1/2" you save will be dented up anyway. Just cut the tube right were the plastic of the pump is.

Beyond that, it isn't too big a deal. Just get all of the air bubbles out and let things run with a good flow for a good 10-15 minutes before you declare things good again.

You may need to update your projector's firmware to accept the currently shipping pumps (slightly different voltage or current, as I recall). 2.8.86 should be a minimum, at this point (also helps with clearing security errors since you can do it via communicator rather than just the format buttons.

[Leo Enticknap]

Barco changed the model of pump they supply a little while back, and I presume that you'll receive the new model (Barco part # R9801816, and Iwaki model # NRD-08TV24-01). If so, two potential gotchas.

1 - The pump comes with a hardware mounting kit. I didn't need it at all when installing one in a B series, which makes me suspect that it is needed for installation in a C series. This might take a bit of figuring out.

2 - You will need to ensure that your projector is on firmware version 2.8.86 or later (current is 2.10.101).

Given the amount of disassembly involved (you'll need to take the light engine out to get at the pump), if it were me, I'd take the opportunity to do a complete flush and replace of the coolant. Check the hoses and clamps, too (especially the ones at the back of the light engine, which you can't inspect with the light engine installed), and replace any that look suspect; though the hoses in Series 2 Barcos seem to be pretty resilient.

Edit - pressed send at almost exactly the same moment as Steve, hence duplicated thoughts/responses.

[Andrew Freeman]

Thank you fellas, super good to know in advance! Absolutely not looking forward to taking out the light engine, but I'm sure it'll be a breeze.

I have a lot more expirience with Christie machines than Barcos, as I have 6 christies between two locations, and only 2 barco machines.

Pretty sure my firmware is up to date, but I will check as soon as I can.

Right now, the coolant is drain and the reservoire is empty, with the projector completely removed from power. Thoughts on leaving it 100% unplugged for 4-5 days?

[Leo Enticknap]

Getting the light engine out is not difficult. If you're doing it for the first time, I would suggest taking photos of the connections into the top of the backplane (though the service manual has those photos in them). For the connectors that it is physically possible to put back in the wrong place, there are color coded zip ties around the cables to guide you to the right one. Then pass the connectors carefully through the bulkhead. Two bolts and either one or two earth straps (can't remember) later, the light engine simply slides out.

Shouldn't be a a problem leaving the projector for 4-5 days, but you must prime new the pump before running it for the first time. If you have the official Barco coolant change kit, it has a reservoir cap with a valve on it, plus a bicycle pump. With the reservoir full of new coolant, use the bicycle pump to force coolant into the reservoir pump. If you don't have the official kit, separate the light engine part of the circuit from the reservoir/pump/radiator part, and force coolant through the latter using a large syringe (I'd suggest a 100ml one).

[Dave Macaulay]

I don't know if you need any installation kit for the "new and improved" one, I've changed a bunch with exact replacements though.
You can do it without removing the lens and light engine, but take them out if you think that necessary. Removal is fairly easy but there are a lot of wires. You can remove the front bracket screw and undo the holding screws and pull it out a but until the wires start getting tight to get a bit more room.
Drain coolant first, blow it out with the bicycle pump... have some rags or towels under the pump to catch dribbles. Cut the tiny wire tie and unplug the pump, then remove the front screw and loosen the rear one - then wiggle and twist the pump out. The mount ears are slots so it will slide off the rear screw. Obviously this is much easier with no LE in the way but it is faster if you leave that in place.
Now, option one: take the four screws out and swap the entire cap, hoses and all, with the new pump. You use the new motor and impeller, but at least some of the front bearing will be the old one. Bit of a cheat I admit.
Or option two:
Cut the inlet hose, as close as you can get to the nipple.
Same with the small outlet hose. You can try and pull this hose off the pump but that is 99% likely to snap the nipple off. And the seal won't be as good as into new hose.
You get a few pump changes before the hoses are too short to re-use.
Put the small hose on the new pump with the old clamp. Put the big clamp on the fat hose, push it back a ways to hold the spring back.
Push the hose on and move the clamp down. The pump will swivel on the hoses for positioning.
Thread the little hose in behind the light pipe and finagle the pump past the light pipe. Get the rear screw into the slot with the washer above the mounting ear. Install the front screw and tighten both.
Reconnect the wire, maybe add a security wire tie like Barco did.
Refill just like for a coolant change. I fill the tank then let coolant flow back into the bottle a bit to prime the pump.
You really need the coolant change kit hoses and connectors to do this.

[Leo Enticknap]

Purely personally, I wouldn't want to try the pump swapout on a C series projector with the light engine in situ, due to the risk of accidentally spilling coolant on it, and/or giving the light pipe a whack in the process of extricating the pump; especially as removing the light engine is not very difficult or time consuming. Ten minutes gets it out of your way, and gives you easy access to the reservoir/radiator/pump section of the cooling circuit, an opportunity to clean the light engine compartment, and an opportunity to inspect the coolant hoses on the light engine assembly itself. In fact, the only parts in a B or C series Barco that are a serious pain in the posterior to remove (IMHO) are the backplane and lens mount.

[Steve Guttag]

I used to think the backplane was a pain...unfortunately, I've done it too much . I never like removing the light engine as it never goes back just right so there will be lens realignment when done. As Dave has mentioned, I've known others to leave the LE in when changing the pump. You're just doing some of it a bit "blind." Note, on "Bs" you never need to remove the LE but if you cut the hoses, they will be short...with "Cs" there will be plenty. By the time a "C" has short hoses, it is time for a new projector.

[Dave Macaulay]

For a first time doing it, I think pulling the LE out a bit for access is minimum. Removing it completely... you should read the service manual instructions and follow them. The cable connectors (most of them) have retention locks that are not super obvious... they break easily if you don't release them and although the plug will stay in there pretty well after the tab is broken off, it should be locked in. Don't worry much about the cable clips in the wiring pit. Even with "before" pics I can't get them all back the same. And as long as wires can't get into the fan, what does it matter?
Image will need adjustment after LE reinstallation - even with the alignment pins it won't be back exactly in the same place, and the 2K imager chips are only 0.98" diagonal so a very slight position change makes a visible difference on screen.
I don't see how coolant could drip on the light pipe or light engine while swapping a C pump, it's all under/behind the light pipe.
If the projector has a lot of hours in a dusty location, cleaning the cavity and the anode fan screen is a good idea. It's maybe a good plan to clean inside the light pipe as the lenses get pretty dirty after many hours, this can improve light by a few ft-L. But it is pretty fiddly work in there.
A "B" pump can be replaced once with just enough hose to get it back together, for the C I have done it twice but doubt if #3 is possible without new hoses to the pump. And I expect these are metric size hoses hard to find in NA.
For independents I think running the pump until it dies (but doing annual coolant changes) is OK. Systems under Barco extended or NOC warranty should have the maintenance schedule followed (new pump at 5 years) as they can get balky on warranty work if related preventative maintenance work has been skipped. (so keep records of it!)

[Andrew Freeman]

Thank you very much! I appreciate all of the information, I will update once the new cooling pump arrives on how the surgery went!

[Andrew Freeman]

Just one last follow up question for you fellas, part is coming In the morning. I have an original cooling pump in my machine. What are the chances I will be able to just swap out the rotor and cap on the new one, as that appears to be what is failing.

Thanks!

[Dave Macaulay]

Like I said, with the original pumps you can remove the cap and swap it with a new pump: you end up with the new main body and rotor but the original cap and volute - but do not need to cut the hoses that may then be somewhat short. The rotor is magnetically coupled, there is no shaft to the "motor" as the rotor is part the motor, avoiding any mechanical seals.
The bearings for the rotor are lubricated by the pumped fluid. They have ceramic shafts into softish plastic sleeves at each end, a pretty loose fit as the magnetic coupling of the rotor to coils self centres it. I could not feel any difference in the cap bearing fit between a used pump and a new one (not saying there isn't though). But by swapping just the end you are re-using the bearing sleeve on that end. I can't tell you whether that is a good idea or a bad idea.
And the new updated pump may have incompatible parts.
I don't know what wears out on the pump, but on one that died but still turned the plastic pump rotor was partly gone - obvious problem. Most I replaced were just done because the maintenance schedule says change it.
I think that pump failures are primarily due to the electronics inside, not mechanical. Running one dry will destroy it but that would be unusual in a projector.

[Andrew Freeman]

It'll be an interesting adventure, but I guess I jumped the gun on it. Tracking number on my part went from "delivered by noon" to "Delivered by end of day" so I guess it's a Wednesday problem.

Thanks so much! Will let you all know how this adventure turns out!

Just happy I was able to get that PIB board delivered in time so I wasn't down 2 projectors at once.

[Phil Ranucci]

When removing the LE I found it easier if the keypad is removed first, gives you a better look at all the tiny connectors you need to pull and replace.

[Andrew Freeman]

And so the pump is replaced!

We were lucky to be sent an older model from Barco, so no unusual surprises thus far.

We managed to do so without removing the light engine, following Dave's instructions.

Tenet has been playing for over an hour now, so things are looking good!

I thank you all!