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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » carpeted booths? (Page 3)

 
This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4 
 
Author Topic: carpeted booths?
John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 06-26-2001 03:34 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In general, carpeting is much harder to keep clean than a smooth washable surface.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

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Mike Jones
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 108
From: Birmingham, MI, USA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 06-27-2001 11:53 PM      Profile for Mike Jones   Email Mike Jones   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Our independent theatre is opening a state of the art 12 screen this fall, and we're installing neither carpet or tile. Instead we're putting it a rubber matting in the entire booth. Does anything have this in their place? What this will do is help cut down on sound, be easy on our feet and absorb dust and reduce static.

My booth has a low pile carpet. We vacuum it every week and if you ask me it is far better than tile. Would you rather vacuum it once a week or sweep AND mop a tiled floor probably daily?

Like Randy said, my theatre has static problems too. Putting the humidifier next to the platter doesn't help much because the booth is too big. We have one projector that has tiling behind it and let me tell you it helps cut down the sound vibration SOOOO much. Like night and day.

And there really is no difference that I can tell with helping or hindering static. Then again, I have never worked in a tiled booth.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-28-2001 02:39 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I may get flamed here for saying this, but I LOVE carpeted booths. The ambient noise level is significantly decreased and in the event that a piece of film hits the floor (say the power goes out and the platter drops, or the tip of a trailer hits the floor during a trailer change), I do not want the film hitting an abrasive surface. I would much rather have to wipe that tiny stretch of film off from "carpet lint/dust" than have a scratch, which is permanent. Also, anyone who can not keep the film off of the floor in general really needs to find another profession anyway.

I will grant that static will be a little bit higher in a carpeted booth on film that is run dry, but who wants to run their films dry???


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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 06-28-2001 06:55 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There are antistatic treatments that can be applied to carpeting that help reduce static generation.
http://www.aclstaticide.com/01/
http://www.ultrastatinc.com/static_carpet_spray.html

For a large area, the anti-static solution can be applied by spraying it using a pressurized garden sprayer.


------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion


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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 06-28-2001 07:28 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I saw a neat little idea that someone had to aid in keeping film off the floor during trailer changes-they used a clean trash can with a clean trash bag so film would not be on floor.

Also, machinists use rubber mats at work stations, helps prevent slipping, and is a shock absorber for the body. Will cut down on noise, but can be a pain to get real clean if crap becomes imbedded in them.

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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 06-28-2001 07:44 PM      Profile for Rick Long   Email Rick Long   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Will brings up a good point!

I remember the booths that used to use black rubber matting (available in rolls) along the most heavily travelled paths. They are cheap, not bad to clean (as long as techs don't drop hot solder onto it), easily replaceable, or moveable should you change your mind.

They also used to go a long way in releiving the strain on the legs after a 12-hour day in the booth.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-28-2001 10:49 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Will, sooner or later I will get the time to make a "how to change trailers" instruction page. There is no need to ever handle a trailer from the floor or trash can or any other form of containment. There is also no need to run the film down or skip trailers on the change-out presentation. I still see this all of the time.

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 06-28-2001 11:06 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm with Brad on this one...why would anyone need to let film touch the floor when changing out trailers? At least on Christie platters, trailer changes can be done very easily without any damage to the film.

(And I say this as one who does not enjoy changing out trailers on platters, but who has gotten relatively good at it lately, "thanks" to NCN ads...)

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 06-28-2001 11:42 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Scott and Brad, the same can be done very easily if you have an old CFS or any other MUT that has the power spindle on the top. All you have to do is come up with a wooden or plastic disc (if the MUT's disc is not big enough) for the trailers to be wound upon.

You have to wind them with the sound track down since it is basically opposite rotation of the platter. Then, take the old trailers off, and splice on the ones you just made up.

Please remember, this works best if you have old trailers already on the show. Take the old ones off, and replace them with the roll you just made up. Of course, you'll have to flop your newly made roll over to match up the soundtracks.

Then use the old plastic lined trash can trick to dismantle your old trailers if they are to be saved. Hold the old trailers in your hand, unwind 10 convolutions into the trash can, twist the roll, and unwind 10 more and so on. When you then wind them on a core, they will not tie themselves into a nasty knot. The convolutions will cancel each other. With proper handling techniques, you will not damage the trailers.


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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-29-2001 12:20 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul, check out in the tips section the bottom of the page on "cutting trailers properly". The use of a roller is more easier, quicker and gentler (to the film) approach to winding trailers back onto cores.


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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 06-29-2001 03:45 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, Brad. I just finished looking at that as per your suggestion. Your method is very effective, but I never made hardware to adapt to the horizontal tables. Normally, when we changed trailers, we were never going to run them again, so in many instances, I simply pulled the threading leader off the whole shebang and tossed the trailers in the trash.

But, I will admit, if the trailers are going to be used in the circuit's sub-run houses, your idea is probably the best if the booth is equipped with equipment similar to what is depicted in the pictures. With the old CFS MUTS and those worthless Strong MUTS, I found it much easier to either toss the trailers in the trash, or use the trash can technique to salvage them for "practice reels". I never had the time to fiddle with trailers that were going to be thrown in the garbage anyway.

When I had projectionists use my practice reels, I came equipped with all kinds of neat stuff to make the film jump rollers, suck itself through the pay-out heads, and some tools to remove sprocket perfs from the film, and purposely be club-footed and walk through the film path, and things like that.

Now those old Brenkerts sometimes outfoxed me. I could cut the film 3/4 of the way though, as well as removing 8 inches of sprocket perfs, and it would not even phase those old Brenkerts.

In my training sessions, anything that can happen in a booth I made it happen, as long as it would not damage the equipment itself. I have also been known to install a bad belt on something like a Century or a Simplex 5-Star, and while the machine was running, a razor blade applied to the belt was very effective. Then I just stood there and watch the prospective projectionist scratch his or her butt trying to figure out what was wrong, and then I would walk over to another machine and sliced the film in two, or shut a platter motor down, or trip a circuit breaker or two.

Devil I was, yes! But many of my trainees became the best!


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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 06-29-2001 02:26 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sorry guys, I did not mean to infer that I changed trailers by letting them drop on the floor! It was just a suggestion that I had come accross, and I forgot where. One good use that I can see for it is when handling threading leaders when doing trailer changes. If I needed to add a new trailer in the #1 position, I would remove the center ring, detach the threading leader, move the center ring to an unused deck, wind the threading trailer onto it, splice on the trailer, wind it on, then move it to the print and reattach. Sounds involved, but is really quite simple and only took a couple of minutes, and trailers were quite "neat and clean" when reattached to the print. The trash-can thing would come in handy to keep threading leaders of the floor when re-winding onto center ring?

I have heard that Christie is comming out with a new platter design. It uses two different diameter center rings per deck. The larger diameter to be used for normal operations, the smaller diameter to be used with trailer changes. Does anyone know about this?

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-29-2001 02:40 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Will, you're still wasting a little bit of time in that procedure, but that's better than what most booth do. However, I still maintain that you do not need a trash can for that leader. Trash cans are for trash.

The Christie item you are referring to is not a new "platter", just a new center ring. The idea is to takeup a movie onto the new 19" center ring right before you change your trailers out. This gives you TONS of room to drop in new trailers. Also convenient is loading up the feature alone (say for a screening) and taking up on the larger ring and then you will have plenty of space to drop in an entire trailer pack.

Personally, I prefer the 19" center rings over the standard ones hands down for ALL use. Using them allows for a retiming of the platters to 15 1/2 RPMs, which makes it virtually IMPOSSIBLE to throw a print. It also allows for clamping of Costner-length movies with normal clamps, where the clamps would otherwise have not fit.

I'll try and get pictures later if you want them.


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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 06-29-2001 03:24 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Did not mean to argue with y'all, but this is how my bosses wanted things done. Brad, you do make sense. I do not have the Christie book in front of me, but I remember reading somewhere that your style of practice helped equalize brush wear on the platter motors? But in breaking down prints, never had a problem maintaining constant/even tension or film bounce.

Yes, I would like to see those platter pictures,

Regards,

W.K.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 06-30-2001 01:28 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Here's the pics Will requested.


The standard Christie center ring.


The new 19 inch Christie center ring.


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