How about these crimp pin/socket terminals? The wire gets crimped in the socket end and the pin goes in the hole of the binding post and gets screwed down. Look here:
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Or a larger lug.. that is screwed down by the binding post, like this:
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Also, general wire plugs/jacks...

Here's a dual banana jack so you can unplug the speaker from the amp... (bottom of page)
http://www.brimelectronics.com/BanPlugs.HTM

Others...
http://www.hhsmith.com/insulatedbanana.html
http://www.johnsoncomp.com/bjack.htm

18 feet is not very long, but I would feel uncomfortable with two parallel runs right next to each other.

But it will probably be OK for home use. The run is not very long and the power levels are low.

btw, someone knows what max AWG size I can use on the screw terminals of the QSC DCA ?
if they are the same as those I have on my JBL 3677, AWG 8 should fit ( but this is the maximum ).

Oh, by the way, when I mentioned twisting speaker wires with an electric drill, I meant twisting them. I didn't say anything about strangling them! A little common sense prevails here...

at least AWG 8 wires to feed the subs ?? then how bigger would you even recommend ???
back to my question, how big wires can I use on the screw terminals of the QSC DCA then ? (in this configuration, the wires will be maximum 45ft long, probably 30ft )

but now since you raise the quite acceptable option of running long balanced cables to the amp sitting next to the subs, I am back to my former option

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Well, I had the chance to listen to some DCA with DAS speakers ( French brand ) at a HT fair 2 years ago and their sheer power, dynamics and violence of sound I should say was amazing. They now start to become THE amps of choice for pro-style home theaters in France for instance. Here in Belgium, the Kinepolis group is now switching entirely to these DCA amps starting this year ( mix of BGW and QSC USA were used so far ). Kinepolis is the largest European cinema complex group.
The main difference I think is the powerwave technology and the full control of the amp functionning. It's really super high tech, super solid hardware. There's full remote computer control too via DCMs controllers.

As for the wire size, I can REALLY tell the difference when feeding my subs with 4mm2 wires and 6mm2. I imagine the sound with AWG 6 from a QSC DCA sitting on top of the sub ( I think I will go that way, long balanced XLR and short wires ).

No kidding, using a drill or like method of twisting the wires is incorrect no matter how few revolutions you put on the cable...it is undo stress on the conductors and should be avoided.

If after creating the lay there is a spring action to the cable, it was done wrong.

Using a drill or like system to do the twisting actually twists each wire in the cable (not the goal) in addition to twisting the various conductors. It is simply wrong and should be avoided. (Kinda like wrapping up a mic cable over your shoulder and arm).

Steve

When I twist them, I usually throw away the first and last 6 feet of the wire. The remaining have about 4 to 5 twists per foot, and they are loose twists, no straining. If the wire size I need is larger than AWG 12 THHN, I'll use the stuff John Allen recommends.

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Again, if you were to mark the top side of each conductor's jacket and then perform your twist, that line should stay on top for the whole length of th cable...with a drill it will twist as well.

I don't care how many of you stand up and say it is ok or that you have done it that way (cuz I have too), it is still the wrong way to twist wire and it increases the stress on each conductor.

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