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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Brekert owners in trouble (Page 2)

 
This topic comprises 3 pages: 1  2  3 
 
Author Topic: Brekert owners in trouble
Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-30-2001 08:24 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
To all that are not aware. Unfortunately the best part of the Wolk Company will no longer be with them. Norm Lauderbach the main man there(he was actually more the main man than Charlie) is not moving with Don to the Chicago suburbs. Without Norm being there its hard to believe that there will be any semblence of organization. I hope that Norm has changed his mind on this.....
Mark @ GTS

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 03-31-2001 01:58 AM      Profile for John Eickhof   Author's Homepage   Email John Eickhof   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark, I am afraid Norm will be retired! I had lunch with him and Charlie last week. I met Norm's replacement, Tony (Ex theatre manager)
His new shop looks good! I think he will carry the torch well (Don that is) He gave me a sample of his new 'plastic' RCA 26241 gear!
I am going to field test it for him, he is also cutting the Simplex gear out of this material...(It looks pretty strong!) Norm and wife are going south for a few months to take a break! With La Vezzi slowing down, it appears there is no place for Norm to go, so he told me he may stay in the machinist trades..(He is an excellent machinist) He definitely will not be commuting to Arlington Hts! Yes...the end of an era!

------------------
John Eickhof President, Chief Slave
Northwest Theatre Equipment Co., Inc.
P.O.Box 258
Wendell, ID. 83355-0258
208-536-5489
email: jeickhof@nteequip.com

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 03-31-2001 02:27 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Plastic 26241? Hmmmm. I wonder how it will hold up under a big heavy Brenkert. You know, seems to me that if would hold up in a 1040 without a flywheel on the motor, it might just make the grade.

The bronze gears get hammered to a pulp in those 1040's, especially when the projectionist bumps his machine forward with the motor switch.

As a passing thought, bumping the projector forward with the motor should never be done on ANY projector! A Piggly Wiggly No-No! Newbies, please heed.


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Jerry Chase
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1068
From: Margate, FL, USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 03-31-2001 08:31 AM      Profile for Jerry Chase   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul, I'll agree that motor bumping puts excess wear on a projector, but in situations where newbies and popcorn poppers are lacing, discretion is the better part of valor. When I've been sure that the person's skills were shakey, I've told them to lace way ahead of the start cues and run the film down in a single bump. I'd rather have the film break in the leader than on-screen. As you say, pros have no need to do this.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 03-31-2001 04:12 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi, Jerry.

I have taught my newbies that if they have to start the motor, make sure it comes up to full speed before they shut it down. Your long leader is a good idea for the newbies.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-31-2001 04:30 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Projectors should be inched over by hand to check threading not motor bumped

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 03-31-2001 08:43 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gordon, you are absolutely correct. But hardly nobody listens to us anyway.

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Jerry Chase
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1068
From: Margate, FL, USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 03-31-2001 09:25 PM      Profile for Jerry Chase   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
"Projectors should be inched over by hand to check threading not motor bumped"

And you "should" brush and floss after every meal.

As long as the motor gets up to speed and runs for a couple of seconds, I'll put the strain on the motor. Refrigeration motors cycle thousands of times, pump motors for wells cycle on and off regularly, even the fans in automobiles are now motors that cycle on and off.

Projectors now start once per show, rather than three or four times, like they used to have to on C.O. systems. A single up-to-speed bump is within spec. and will help a newbie detect problems that otherwise might not be seen (or heard) at the low speed of a manual crank over.

I don't hear Scott and others suggesting making up a print to avoid having to start the motor more than once per show. <evil grin> Your turn.



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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 03-31-2001 11:33 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The reason to not "bump" the motor is not the motor itself, but the projector gearing.

Refrigeration motors, pump motors for wells, fans in automobiles etc., are directly conneted to the whatever is being driven. Not so in projectors, with several gears (each with some amount of backlash) between the motor and the top sprocket.

Personally, I feel a newbie should be taught to thread correctly _without_ even turning the motor at all. THEN, he/she can turn the motor over by hand to double-verify. It should only take a few frames of spinning. IMHO.


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Jerry Chase
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1068
From: Margate, FL, USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 04-01-2001 11:30 AM      Profile for Jerry Chase   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Well, I overspoke. Please delete. Thanks ."


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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 04-01-2001 02:04 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I prefer to call it "Motoring off excessive leader." There is nothing wrong with that.

If bumping the motor is to verify threading, That's a different story.

I call it "Hammering" the projector forward. That is something that simply should not be done, and that procedure is simply unacceptable..

Again, as I have stated previously, if the motor has to be started, make sure it comes up to full speed before it is shut down.


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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 04-01-2001 03:42 PM      Profile for John Eickhof   Author's Homepage   Email John Eickhof   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul has it very correct!! After replacing countless starter switch assemblies in both Leland (Simplex / Motiograph) and Robbins & Meyers motors (RCA) I can not figure out why so many people were told to just 'bump' the motor for a second! It plays hell on the start switch contacts in the motor, usually ending up welding them closed and then burning up the start windings! Not to mention the impact on the gear trains!!! I will note that most of these problems I encountered were in booths operated by older veteran union men or people trained by union men!
I asked several times where they learned this and was told that was how they were trained??? I have never seen this topic on any union tests...oh well!
'Can't teach an old dog a new trick' You just run out of bones! (Or starter switches in this case!)

------------------
John Eickhof President, Chief Slave
Northwest Theatre Equipment Co., Inc.
P.O.Box 258
Wendell, ID. 83355-0258
208-536-5489
email: jeickhof@nteequip.com

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Larry Racies
Film Handler

Posts: 7
From: New York, NY USA
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 04-01-2001 04:37 PM      Profile for Larry Racies   Email Larry Racies   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You are so right, John, sadly it is indeed the end of an era. I still remember, although it was over 20 years ago, Wolk returning my order for parts for a DeVry XD because I wasn't an "accredited dealer."

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-01-2001 04:42 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
First off...as my name at the left shows...I'm Steve, not Scott...never have been a Scott and don't plan on changing my name to Scott!

I am a strong advocate of running down the thread up section of the film rather than threading on the countdown. Basically, keep yer hands off of irreplacable stuff. Once one gets to the ID section of the leader prior to countdown, one shouldn't touch...if this policy is followed, the leader and the print itself doesn't get dirty and oily. This is true for either platter or changeover.

I do not advocate "bumping" the projector since as others have pointed out, it is not good for the motor nor the gear train. On an older Century JJ with heavy steel shutters, starting and stopping puts a bunch of strain on the GR-207 gears.

For those changeover theatres that have Dolby digital or SDDS, I suggest installing a run down button that won't trigger the digital processor to make a sound changeover.

Steve

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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"


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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-01-2001 06:55 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have had to replace many a gear because of bumping
When I thread I thread on Pix start in the gate and go opposite directions from there locating the correct sync diamond across the correct reader for format.
I then inch the machine by hand down to the correct position for the changeover

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