Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Spilcer Cleaning

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Topic: Spilcer Cleaning

John T. Hendrickson, Jr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 889
From: Freehold, NJ, USA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-07-2002 04:44 PM

Filmguard works great.

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Mike Blakesley
Film God

Posts: 12767
From: Forsyth, Montana
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-07-2002 06:49 PM

I have some CPI tape but I've found it tends to tear into little pieces too easily when peeling off. Neumade is better IMO.

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Stan Gunn
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 176
From: Clematis, in the hills near Melbourne Australia
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 03-07-2002 11:17 PM

Josh

I repair and clean film for a distruber of of early film titles (35mm)and have a big problem with tape residue, I have found lighter fluid to be the best for this problem. I have a friend Who is into archival film preservation, who also recomends its use.
If a soft clean cloth is used and gentle pressure, it does not have any effect on the film, but I would not reccomend it be used for general film gleaning.

------------------
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ALL PARTS FOR VICTOR AND KALART VICTOR 16MM PROJECTORS.SERVICE TO 35 AND 16MM PROJECTION EQUIPMENT.
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Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-08-2002 07:50 AM

Tape residue dissolves in petroleum solvents, the film emulsion will soften in water but is not really bothered by most solvents. Polyester film base is nearly indestructible. Acetate a bit less so, but it stands up to a cleaning OK.
So petroleum solvents are the choice for cleaning tape goo off film. Polar solvents (water soluble, like alcohol) are a poorer choice because of the unknown water content, soap and water is a no-no.
If you can find a product called "Gum-Off" it cuts tape glue like nothing else, but it may have been outlawed as carcinogenic or an environmental hazard. "Bug and Tar Remover" from auto stores is wicked for getting tape residue off windows or equipment but I haven't attacked film with it.
Lighter fluid or paint thinner work a bit slower but are effective.
Acetone works well but is so dangerous to work with I leave it for extreme cases. By dangerous I mean its ability to destroy and dissolve almost any paint or plastic instantly. Although Estar isn't affected, spilling acetone on just about any surface that isn't polished metal will leave a permanent reminder. Plus the fumes are toxic and explosive...

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 03-08-2002 11:49 AM

Splicer cleaning and film cleaning seem like very different tasks. While I can see using serious solvents like that for cleaning metal, I'm surprised at their use om film.
Over here, we continue to use our stockpile of Renovex (1,1,1-trichloroethane), I'm surprised others don't do the same.

--jhawk

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Pete Naples
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1565
From: Dunfermline, Scotland
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 03-08-2002 12:07 PM

I find that WD-40 is quite useful for removing the goo left by splicing tape, that and assisting in starting wet Range Rovers!

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-08-2002 11:13 PM

HydroNaptha is an approved film cleaning solvent by Kodak I am sure that our human link search engine can give us the kodak link for it

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 03-09-2002 12:05 AM

Since he's probably on the way back from ShoWest, Here's Kodak's Film Cleaning Solvents page.

--jhawk

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Josh Jones
Redhat

Posts: 1207
From: Plano, TX
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-09-2002 11:22 PM

John said;

"Splicer cleaning and film cleaning seem like very different tasks"

true, but they both involve the removal of tape residue

Josh

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 03-11-2002 08:26 AM

So that's what Renovex is! 1,1,1 was used in ultrasonic film cleaning machines before the European Union banned it on the grounds that it's hazardous to the environment. IMHO, none of the alternatives are anything like as good.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-11-2002 02:49 PM

Josh they may both be the issue of removing residue but what you are removing the residue from is a completly different material

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 03-12-2002 01:28 PM

jhawk said: "Since he's probably on the way back from ShoWest, Here's Kodak's Film Cleaning Solvents page."

Thanks for posting the link.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 03-13-2002 08:33 AM

Lighter fluid often contains Naphtha:
http://aditweb.nmu.edu/public_safety/msds/cheminfo.php?MSDS=17130

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Stan Gunn
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 176
From: Clematis, in the hills near Melbourne Australia
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 03-16-2002 05:41 AM

Leo

I have altered an early lipsner smith to use perc, it is run at around 36 FPM and the solvent temp raised a bit and the air knife slits a wisker differant than the specs, it works great.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 03-16-2002 05:52 AM

RTI, who market Lipsner-Smith cleaners over here, now sell them ready-modified to run with perchloroethane. When I said it wasn't as good I didn't mean that it wouldn't get the film clean - it just costs more, and is more of a hassle.

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