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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Spilcer Cleaning (Page 3)

 
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Author Topic: Spilcer Cleaning
System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 10-28-2005 07:26 PM      Profile for System Notices         Edit/Delete Post 

It has been 1322 days since the last post.


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Michael Allen Mccartney
Film Handler

Posts: 1
From: Garden City, Georgia, USA
Registered: Oct 2005


 - posted 10-28-2005 07:26 PM      Profile for Michael Allen Mccartney   Email Michael Allen Mccartney   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sorry to bring back an old thread like this, but the info present just isn't enough for me.

I'm more curious on just HOW you guys clean splicers rather then what type of cleaning fluid.

Do you take the splicer apart to clean it?

Are you dabbing the fluid on and letting it sit for a bit then scrubbing it off? Spraying it on? Or are you soaking it in a container filled with the fluid (seems rather expensive but figured I'd ask)? Precision placement via syringe? Other?

If you're dabbing it, are you using a sponge to do so? Q-tips? Fingertip? Other?

What are you using to scrub the glue residue off? A tooth brush? A copper toothed brush? A metal file? Q-tips? A razor edge or knife? Other?

I've tried a few methods, and while I get the blade, plates, and perf punchers clean, I can never seem to get the perf hole areas clean.

Getting another brand of Tape is not an option, already asked, already got a response.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-28-2005 09:23 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Often I find people fail to read the manufacturers guidlines on their splicer (like lots of other things)
On the CIR the manufacturer recomends
1 the holes in the dies not be cleaned out. The idea is the punching adheres to the other ones there
2 that there be two layers of tape left applied across the matrix

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 10-29-2005 02:37 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Gordon McLeod
1 the holes in the dies not be cleaned out. The idea is the punching adheres to the other ones there
2 that there be two layers of tape left applied across the matrix

Wonder if this could apply to the Neumade "Newtaper" units, the "doorstop" STRONG units, and the Marble "Neumade" wannabes..

I remember when tape splicers first came out that of the instruction of leaving the two layers across the matrix was applied.

CPI makes a good splicer cleaner, but I've done the same with good ol' WD-40.

Lighter fluid does good as well, but have to wear gloves so the naphta doesn't doesn't take all of the skin oil out of your fingers..

-Monte

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 11-01-2005 05:46 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Be careful when using flammable solvents like naphtha (lighter fluid), alcohol, and acetone. [Eek!]

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Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 11-01-2005 10:20 AM      Profile for Dan Lyons   Email Dan Lyons   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
After you clean it, start using quality tape. Crap tape leaves behind residue on film and your splicer.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 11-01-2005 11:57 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Using Neumade splicers, I have NEVER left a piece of film on the punching block and unless the splicer was badly neglected have never had any of the little tape perforations left behind. The Neumade design is hands down the best tape splicer ever made. The only time I have ever found someone who argued the point, they fell into one of these categories:

*That person had never used a Neumade and didn't know any better.

*That person was or worked with projectionists who were careless and abusive to the equipment and wanted something more along the lines of the Strong splicer since the case is just about indestructable (as opposed to just giving reasonable care to a Neumade).

*Cheap, cheap, cheap!

And Dan is correct, crappy tape will gum up your splicer and it won't make the same quality level of splices. Best to use only Neumade tape. I've got a splicer in my screening room that saw about 10 years worth of almost-daily use as I used it in theaters that I worked at as well, and it's only had Neumade tape on it, never been cleaned, and still makes flat out perfect splices.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 11-01-2005 01:17 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Brad Miller
Best to use only Neumade tape
..I agree also. But unfortunately there are plenty of "cheap" operations out there that want the cheaper brand due to unnecessary spending and can't see the reason for the more expensive Neumade when the cheaper brands can do just the same task when doing a lot of "makes and breaks" in a complex world. But, their Neumades are pretty gummy looking and stick like nobody's business.

Shoot, I've seen operations use regular "Scotch tape" for their splicing-and these splices hold for what their worth, and that's called "being very cheap.." (lol)

quote: John Pytlak
Be careful when using flammable solvents like naphtha (lighter fluid), alcohol, and acetone.
Got that right. If I do use these substances, I'm outside the building doing the teardown and cleaning since I don't really want to be gassed out or blow the place up.

Main reason I like using WD-40 the most-not so nasty of a product and you can localize and minimize the spray if needed, then I use alcohol for a quick rubdown to remove the residue from the WD-40.

Even FG is good splicer cleaner....

-Monte

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 11-02-2005 07:07 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Which model of Neumade splicer is prefered?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 11-02-2005 07:17 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
the common 35/SS model.

If you're planning on buying a new one, or have one repaired and if you are using two different kinds of splicing tape, buy another arm and roller assembly with the mounting screws like the one that is already on the back, and you can mount this assembly in front where the two holes are already at and you have a double roll splicer-one roll in front and one roll in back for multiple tape use.

-Monte

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