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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: Rotating Xenons? Pro or Con?
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-13-2002 04:00 AM
John, there is no question about it. At the Stanwood Cinemas, we are burning 3,000, 4,000 and 4500 watt xenons in the Christie Consoles.Don't ask me why so many different wattages for a 5-screen theater. As I was rummaging through some old bulbs, there was a clear 4500 watt and a clear 3000 watt lamp sitting in the pile. I noted one 4500 watt lamp was pulled after 6,600 hours. The 3,000 was pulled after 3500 hours. The remaining bulbs had well over 4,000 hours on them. Only two looked real bad, probably because they were operated out of parameters. When looked the booth over before we took over, I noted that one of the 3000 watt lamps was being operated at 125 amps. One of those bulbs was from that lamp. Now, the lamp exhaust......they are belt-driven with a 1/2 (maybe 1/3) horse motors. When they are all running, it sounds like a Diesel Locomotive rumbling through the booth. That's how big they are. The proof is in the pudding. Oh, by the wey - they are Christie bulbs. The draft at the console stacks is almost strong enough to suck your hand in. The duct work from the lamphouse to the fans are 12 inches in diameter. Very impressive cooling for the consoles. Actually, I like the Christie Consoles, but as for the projectors, well.....that's a different story.
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-13-2002 12:16 PM
Some getters were basically a small charge of gun powder or something that will go "boom". There were others, too. Some were fired by RF energy. Some were fired by electical current. The idea was the ignition of the getter would burn up any oxidizing impurities inside a vacuum tube, such as oxygen. But it does not sould like the same type of getter Richard speaks of.
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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999
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posted 04-13-2002 01:24 PM
I haven't heard the term "getter" since the vacuum-tube days.With limited manpower and a large number of screens to service, we don't often get out to perform routine service (at least the way it should be done) as often as we should, especially in out-of-town situations. A manageress/projectionist in one of these locations asked me if I would change 4 of her 6 xenon bulbs for her. She was quite capable of doing it, but hey, since I was there anyways... She informed me that these four machines had not been changed since she was at the theatre, and had no idea as to their age. I replaced these bulbs. Although they were dark on the top (obviously never rotated), the screen light wasn't that bad, and had very little, if any flicker. In one of the lamps i found a xenon bulb record sheet. It had been filled out by a former union projectionist I know. I checked the serial number against the bulb I removed. Sure enough, this bulb, an Osram XBO 2500 W/hs, had approximately 7500 hours on it. Same with the other three lamps. I attribute this not only to adaquate ventillation and quality Osram bulbs, but Strong switching rectifiers as well.
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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-13-2002 04:17 PM
Personally I get great performance out of xenons by just putting them in and letting them go. When I was working at the Chinese, Joe had shown me 2000 watt lamps that had ran 7500-8000 hours that still looked fantastic on screen. Before I left I had taken some out that had 8500 hours on them and still looked excellent! Those bulbs were still outputting great light on screen and there was no darkening of the envelope at all nor flicker.I think it boils down to cooling, the quality of the xenon itself and the power supply driving the lamp. Nothing beats a Christie lamp in a Christie console. When working with other brands of lamphouses, I have been able to greatly improve lamp life just by increasing the CFM of the exhaust. Switching to Christie lamps helps too, but boost the exhaust and you'll probably be very surprised.  On a related note, even though this thread is specifically asking about rotating xenons, do be sure and take a good hard look at your lenses. I work 2 nights a week at the Galaxy and our scope images are incredible. However, our flat presentations make me want to run and hide. This is because we are using those damned Magnacom zoom lenses for flat!!! These things suck up light, resolution and even produce dark corners that is NOT the bulb being focused down too much. I brought in a regular 35mm lens a couple of years back and did side by side comparisons in the turret and the difference was like comparing 16mm to 70mm. Maybe Regal will fix this once and for all. (Hint, hint) Anyway, check your lenses (clean them too, of course), as well as the reflector and port glass if you are getting poor light on screen.
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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler

Posts: 363
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-13-2002 05:17 PM
John -- by "shim", I assume you refer to a washer that would be used on "HTP" style lamps, right? I think washers are normally provided by the lamp manufacturers for 180-degree rotation. "H" and "HS" styles can usually be positioned at about any angle. The "HTP" Christie styles I'm not sure about -- I think you need a washer to rotate them.Brad -- interesting comment on the Magnacoms as a light eater. They were usually fairly efficient in my experiences with them. The theory was, of course, to use them with longer focal length prime lenses that generally had better depth of field and light throughput compared to fixed focal length prime lenses of the day. Are the screens they are in using vertical masking? What's the prime lens they attach to? The dark corners might indicate some vignetting, which might be the Magnacom attached to too short a prime lens without the proper adapter to "close couple" it. Don't get me wrong -- the newer fixed primes are generally a much better option, especially the PLUS lenses. The instances where I'd use a Zoom Converter (new version of the Magnacom) with a Prime lens are fewer. Pat
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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-13-2002 09:46 PM
Pat, to give you an idea of what's going on, we need 37.5mm lenses in virtually EVERY house, with I think only a couple of exceptions, which I believe should be 42.5mm and 32.5mm (it's been awhile since I checked it). The Magnacoms we have are older 80's vintage and are just horrible for this scenario. A few years ago I took up a 35mm lens of mine and placed it in the scope position on the turret of a couple of projectors and flipped back and forth. While my picture was a bit too big for the screen, even with the extra magnification my lens was substantially sharper and brighter...and this was not me being picky. To keep the picture from hitting the lens barrel, whoever set up the lenses had to use an appropriate focal length prime lens so that the Magnacoms were as compressed as much as they could possibly be. Otherwise the picture is literally a circle. Still though, the clearance is so tight that even illumination in the corners is impossible. I'm not sure if the lenses have close couplers on them or not, I know we have them on our scope lenses, but I'd have to check the flat. While I do agree the newer versions of Magnacoms are much better, this is just not the right way to do it. We have one house in the complex that runs with a fixed lens and that flat image is fantastic, despite top masking being in all auditoriums. And of course, ALL of our scope images are great. (Just imagine how great flat films through a zoom attachment look with a 4500 watt xenon onto an 80 foot screen! )
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-13-2002 10:09 PM
Brad, is there a possibility that part of the problem might be the f-stop of the lense being way out of porportion with the f-stop of the mirror?The reason for me throwing this question out here is because at this theater in Anacortes where I am now, we didn't have any vignetting until a bulb blew. It wanged the mirror so bad, it was junk. I sent you a picture of that mirror last month some time. I temporarly replaced the Super-Lumex with an ORC XH series lamphouse, and I had no vignetting. When I replaced the mirror in the Strong and placed the unit back into operation, still no vignetting, except I had to re-trim the scope aperature about .001 inches on the sides. With the old mirror, I tried just about everything in the books to eliminate the vignetting. Correct me if I am wrong, but I have heard that the f-stop of the mirror and lense should be as close as possible. As per example, a 500-watt Kneisley has such a fast mirror that it seems impossible to get rid of a hot-spot on the screen when it is sitting behind a 35mm projector. Would a faster lense correct some of this problem? I am under the impression the f-stop of the lense should match the f-stop of the mirror as close as possible. I have a lot to learn here....... Thanks We need a "Lense 101" seminar in the tip section of FT. 
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 04-14-2002 12:35 AM
Since Brad says the image will get a circle as the magnacom is pulled out, then there is not a close coupler on the magnacom, as it should be...I don't see any light eating issues with magnacoms used correctly, nor image problems. But if you are using a Magnacom, you will generally get better results if you have a curved screen. I have also found that Magnacoms do not perform equally across their range and depending on the geometry of the your screen system, it is better to favor nearly pulled out, nearly pushed in or somewhere in the middle. I would not dismiss Magnacoms out of hand though. They are not necessarily the best choice in all situations either. Give a Flat or nearly flat (1/20) screen a standard fixed focal length lens will normally be the better choice, if you can get the image out of your projection system. In some instances, I've had to use the little known .52X magnifier by ISCO...it comes in a type "F" for flat field (also the shallow curves) and a type "C" for deeper curves. One thing that baby will do is push the focal point forward and also not eat any light (it is a large and expensive piece)...for pictures, check out the Indianapolis IMAX 3D in the gallery here...there is a picture of the Norelco projector with it (a white lens cap is on it). The new Zoom Converter type "S" has a much larger exiting element than the older Magnacoms so even short lenses will not have a vignetting nor light problem. Steve ------------------ "Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 04-14-2002 09:02 AM
Going with a close coupler could very well increase your light output on the magnacom. If the image is approximatly the size of your exiting aperture of the magnacom, then think of the exiting lens as an f-stop iris. Pushing the rear lens closer will reduce this and place the picture in the middle section of the lens elements, typically the better resolving part.Close couplers are not expensive...give it a try. Steve ------------------ "Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
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