Film-Tech Cinema Systems
Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE


  
my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home
  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Rectifier Diodes (Page 2)

 
This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4 
 
Author Topic: Rectifier Diodes
Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-02-2002 10:31 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I usually don't replace all the diodes unless I can see major heat related discolouration or know there has been some HV leaking back.
Very rarely have I had a failure after that.
Usually If the diodes are the highest PIV rated available they are ok

 |  IP: Logged

William Phillips
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 117
From: Cardigan, Wales, UK
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 08-03-2002 05:29 AM      Profile for William Phillips   Author's Homepage   Email William Phillips   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The diodes in my N3-x75 rectifier are 42HFR100, Does that mean that they are 42amps at 1000volts PIV. There are 6 in total.2 for each phase.

 |  IP: Logged

Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-03-2002 10:09 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That is correct

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-03-2002 10:14 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Not entirely correct...42HFR100s are 40 amp not 42. International Rectifier naming convention has the second digit signify the lead. "0" means no lead, "1" means leaded and "2" means leaded with a jacket. Thus your 42HFR100s will be a leaded diode with a red jacket since it is a reverse diode. A forward diode would have a blue jacket.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

 |  IP: Logged

Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 08-03-2002 04:32 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Diodes....

Something that no one has mentioned. lamphouses and rectifiers also have many filter caps. If these caps go, rf signals can go back through the system and also cause havoc on diodes! I recently serviced a Strong Super Lume-X and High Reactance Power Supply. Many of the filter caps in the lamphouse were bad and played havoc on diodes in the power supply. (the guys at Strong helped me troubleshoot). They also suggested that I put some filter caps across diodes as extra protection, and these filter caps are not oem, but an after market Strong suggestion.

Soldering diodes can be very tricky, and much care must be used. If you are not an experienced solderer, then stay away! Solder heat will ruin diodes! A generous amount of flux (to be cleaned off afterwords) and a hot, well tinned iron with a excellent tip and heat sinks (generally aligator clips) and proper mechanical connection prior to soldering) is a must!

Also note that many diodes are installed with solderless connectors!

Diodes can sometimes also be defective from the manufacturer.

Ohms scale on a good multi-meter...I personally like analog over digital! can be used to check diodes. Caps need to be checked on a cap tester w/the proper value range!


 |  IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 08-03-2002 05:30 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Will, are you referring to the RF suppression capacitors? There are usually several of those in the lamphouses, too. If the power supply diodes seem to fail faster than usual, I would recommend changing those RF suppression capacitors, both in the lamphouse and power supply as well. As we all know, the RF pulse from the igniter will really raise hell with the diodes if it gets on the DC rail.

As far as changing the rectifier diodes, I still change them in sets. Diodes are cheap, and it is very cheap insurance rather than to risk a loss of a show, which usaually happens in a "Full House - Friday Night" situation.

Some Xenon Power supplies (The heavy duty ORC's and some light duty Xetrons) use selenium diodes for the boost circut rectification. Seleniums have such a high internal capacitance that the RF pulse does not bother them too much. So those seldom fail. When they do, they'll really stink up the booth. I do not recommend replacing them with Silicone diodes. I tried that once in a 900 watt IREM, and it simply just did not work for very long. I hung a bunch of suppression capacitors across the diode, and it didn't do the job. I finally broke down and replaced it with an orginal style Selenium rectifier.


 |  IP: Logged

Manny Knowles
"What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???"

Posts: 4247
From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 08-04-2002 11:50 PM      Profile for Manny Knowles   Email Manny Knowles   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It's interesting that this topic came up because I just had to fly out to another island to change diodes. I don't usually deal with the electrical components, so I sought out instructions from the technician in Miami.

A simple test for continuity in both directions through the diode revealed the culprits (two were bad). I did not have a full complement of diodes, so I wasn't able to change them all. I just ordered a bunch, so that won't be an issue for a while.

I was instructed not to use any chemicals on the heat sink, so I used a guitar pick* to remove the old and also to apply a layer to the face of the new ones.

I was also advised to ascertain a tight connection. (I guess that's why each diode came with a replacement nut and star washer?)

~Manny (The director's cut).

*The guitar picks made it into my tool kit after Bobby Henderson mentioned it elsewhere for cleaning buildup from the film bands in dirty gates. They have come in handy.


 |  IP: Logged

William Phillips
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 117
From: Cardigan, Wales, UK
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 08-08-2002 12:44 PM      Profile for William Phillips   Author's Homepage   Email William Phillips   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ok so i`ve replaced my diodes and caps with the same type.
I know that the diodes are 40amps stud anode with a PIV of 100ov, and the cap is a 4700uF 75v. Putting in better rated diodes like 82HFR100 would be good but how about uprating the cap. I was thinking about maybe around the 10,000uF 100v mark. Would this help to reduce the ripple? or would I be wasting my time, I would love to be able to afford the external filter unit but cant at the moment. The rectifier is IREM N3-X75
Cool

 |  IP: Logged

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-08-2002 02:09 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul said "When they do, they'll really stink up the booth."
Ya gotta be real careful ot to breath this in at all. Its extremely toxic! I don't remember what gas it is but its darn dangerous in a big enough dose. John P. is there a link to this gas?

As far as changing the caps to a larger size I'd be very careful you don't increase the inrush current over the amount the lamp you are using can safely tolerate. In the Irem they use a seperate start circuit, but it is possible the larger main caps my increase things a bit too much and eventually blow the anode and cathode to bits. Inrush can be checked with either the ORC Inrush./Ripple meter, or by using a storage scope measuring across a very high wattage precision calibrated resistance...similar to a meter shunt but not actually one. You record, and store the inrush pulse and read it in millivolts dc off the scope, and then calculate it using ohms law. Osram used to have one they'd send out for tests but I don't know if they still do.
Mark


 |  IP: Logged

William Phillips
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 117
From: Cardigan, Wales, UK
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 08-08-2002 03:00 PM      Profile for William Phillips   Author's Homepage   Email William Phillips   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Cheers Mark. I think I will leave the caps alone, just do the diodes at some point.
Anyone are the 42HFR100`s that are the correct ones glass filled?

 |  IP: Logged

Antonio Marcheselli
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1260
From: Florence, Italy
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 08-08-2002 03:29 PM      Profile for Antonio Marcheselli   Author's Homepage   Email Antonio Marcheselli   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Steve,

perhaps IR has changed their codes... I found 87 HFR 120 and I became crazy to understand what that "7" means. I search the entire IR site and finally, at the end of a PDF datasheet, I found this:

85=Standard Device
86=Not isolated lead
87=Isolated lead with silicone sleeve (Red for reverse polarity, Blue for Normal polarity)
88=Type for rotating application

I can send the pdf if you want!

Bye
Antonio

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Kraus
Film God

Posts: 4094
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 08-08-2002 05:31 PM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Is there any value to replacing all the big caps just on principle on old rectifiers (+20 years) or is it better just to wait for things to fail?

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-08-2002 09:15 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Nope, they haven't changed their codes...I should have stated that it is +0, +1, +2 to the current rating...thus an 87 is an 85amp diode with a covered lead (red for reverse, blue for forward).

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

 |  IP: Logged

Rick Sanjurjo
Film Handler

Posts: 26
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 08-09-2002 07:58 AM      Profile for Rick Sanjurjo   Email Rick Sanjurjo   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I wouldn't increase the size of the filter caps unless I could measure the inrush current. Excessive inrush can cause short bulb life. You can check the ripple on your supply and if it seems high then replace the caps with the same value ones. The job of the capacitors in the supply are two fold, one they provide the right amount of inrush current to get the bulb lit and two they filter the DC from the bridge to lower the ripple current.

Rick

 |  IP: Logged

John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-09-2002 09:34 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Rick: What is the typical capacitor failure mode as they age (e.g., short, open, loses capacity, leakage)? Would there be some way of checking the capacitors by charging them to a known voltage, then looking at the R/C characteristic as they discharged through a known load? What is the typical value used, and is it different for different types of rectifiers (e.g., full wave bridge, 3-phase full wave) or lamp types?

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243
e-mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion


 |  IP: Logged



All times are Central (GMT -6:00)
This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4 
 
   Close Topic    Move Topic    Delete Topic    next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:



Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.

© 1999-2020 Film-Tech Cinema Systems, LLC. All rights reserved.