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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » The Logic of Threading a Projector Top to Bottom (Page 3)

 
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Author Topic: The Logic of Threading a Projector Top to Bottom
Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 01-20-2003 11:08 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I can see where it would be easy (after much practice) (and observance of Brad doing it) with the Christie, but it sure looks like a real pain in the rear end to attempt that in a Simplex (any model), PRO-35, Century or a Brenkert. (Or anything with a Simplex SH10**, RCA MI-****, Motiograph, or the Weber SynchroFilm sound head with the magazines installed on the projectors.)

How about the threading of an old Western Electric 211A sound head with a Super Simplex or a Simplex Regular parked on top of it? The 211A didn't even have a sprocket. The output of the Super intermitant went down a film funnel, around the scanner in the sound head, back up into the projector, around the holdback sprocket, right back down through the sound head's fire trap rollers to the take-up reel.

Maybe that's why all us old farts threaded "frame first", then the upper feed, holdback, scanner, Constant speed, and then the lower holdback in the sound head.

What do you think?

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Jason Black
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1723
From: Myrtle Beach, SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 01-20-2003 11:17 PM      Profile for Jason Black   Author's Homepage   Email Jason Black   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Joe,
I meant that my leader never hits the floor.

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Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 01-21-2003 12:55 AM      Profile for Sean McKinnon   Author's Homepage   Email Sean McKinnon   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Steve Geiger is my NCS Tech. He is a great guy and he really knows his shit. He is also not afraid to take suggestions/ideas from others like some techs can be. Ive been trying to get Steve to participate on here.

Barry,

If you would take the time to read the document titled "Improving Your On Screen Presentation" in the "Tips" section you will not that it explains what the proper loop size should be and that most people make them too large thus causing "Standing Scratches".

quote:
First, make SMALL loops. Whoever came up with the “two finger” loop rule obviously never came to the realization that his two fingers put together is not the same size as everyone else’s two fingers. Polyester stock, unlike triacetate, possesses a “base curl.” By this I mean if one was to lay a strip of film with the emulsion side down against a flat surface, only the edges would make contact with the surface as the center of the film would curl upward, towards the base side. This fault alone is why films today run rougher, louder and more erratic than triacetate did. Making small loops, particularly the lower loop, will drastically help and put an end to “standing” scratches.
Also it would be very difficult for the gate of a Simplex Millenium to open in the manner which you describe because it is locked into place with a pin, also the physics of it dont make sense if the upper loop was to small it would push down on the gate not out, I am confused because I have never ever seen this happen???

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 01-21-2003 01:23 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Fortunately Sean the later model Simplexes were designed with raised rails to protect the film from getting scratched in the event someone makes a "two finger loop". Of course it will destroy the SRD track, but at least it protects the picture area. Unfortunately, most other projectors will lay down those standing scratches.

BTW off subject a little bit, I have noticed that when I go to theaters that are making huge loops that slap around during operation that their SRD and SDDS never seem to be too reliable after the film has been out a week or two. Hmmm, ever consider those large loops are slapping around causing that damage? [Wink]

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Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 01-21-2003 02:34 AM      Profile for Sean McKinnon   Author's Homepage   Email Sean McKinnon   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I get really annoyed because some people pick on the way I make my loops and tell me that there too small etc. When I thread a projector I use the fly wheel to advance the projector and observe the loop making its cycle I try to thread so that I can make as small a loop as possible without running the risk of opening the Pad Roller.

I think that when I thread the projectors are quieter and the image is more stable than someone making huge loops.

people still tell me I make my loops to small. But I dont let it bother me anymore because I know that I am doing it properly.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-21-2003 09:53 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The correct lower loop size is such that when the word Pix Start is in the apperture the sync pip diamond is across the cell.
If you are running mag then it is Pix Start in the apperture and the correct Mag Sync diamond across the coresponding head

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 01-21-2003 10:49 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gordon is correct. The lower loop size is important to maintain proper analog sound sync. There should be 21 frames between the picture aperture and sound pickup when the audience is very close to the speakers (e.g., small screening room or drive-in theatre). But as Gordon notes, 20 frames is usually used (and marked on the SMPTE 301 leader as "Picture Start" frame and "Sound Start" diamond), assuming about 1/24 second for the sound to travel from the screen speakers to the center of the audience.

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Tony Ratcliff
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 216
From: Madison, IN, USA
Registered: Mar 2002


 - posted 01-21-2003 12:16 PM      Profile for Tony Ratcliff   Email Tony Ratcliff   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I cut my teeth working for National Amusements ( Redstone ) and was taught to thread a reel-to-reel top-bottom and a platter bottom-top.

Also, on loop size, I was taught the "2-figure" rule, but from experience have backed off to smaller loops. I agree that my old E-7 runs quieter. I can always tell when my asst mgrs have threaded with too large of loops ( which they tend to do despite my teaching ) - the projector sounds different and louder.

Tony

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 01-21-2003 12:35 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Maybe they need smaller fingers.

Whoever came up with the two finger rule should have their fingers broken. [Smile]

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Barry Martin
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 203
From: Newington, CT USA
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 01-21-2003 03:56 PM      Profile for Barry Martin   Author's Homepage   Email Barry Martin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Barry, are you disengaging the platter's takeup motor or something? Once you put the film into the upper constant feed sprocket there is just not enough film in the platter's accumulator to be able to thread the rest of the projector. Perhaps you could reword.
Sorry Brad, I thought I had been really specific but just realized the gap in my explanation. I actually had to sit here and meditate for a second and go back in time (in thought) and actually thread a projector. It's been a while since I've had to do it and I'm afraid I'm losing it. Anyways, my previous post holds true except that after creating a loop around the projector I would set my frame and lock down the intermittent sprocket first, then the film gate, then the upper sprocket and the SDDS (where applicable). I would then use the "slack" that was on the platter tree to thread between the intermittent and bottom sprockets, the sound head, and the failsafe. Really I was just using the platter tree to thread the bottom half of the projector and it was always enough and the leader never touched the ground. So I'm guessing there are no benefits other than those listed in this thread? I do apologize for not checking the tips section but as is I've limited my wife and I to one hour on the computer per day to avoid internet dependency. [Wink] Seeing as how I have 2 email addresses to check, a message board to administer and two to post to, by the time I get here I'm almost out of time.

Joe said:

quote:
doing things in a far less efficient manner.
This is part of the question I had, why is it less efficient and is it so in all instances. I threaded platter and projector on average between 60-90 seconds. (The 60 was when I was just trying to see how fast I could do it if I had to using a old trailer and without an SDDS head to thread as well) I just want to know if top-bottom is a less efficient method in ALL instances according to some or in instances using certain equipment and setups.

Sean,

Thanks for taking the time to research that quote and I do completely agree with it. I was actually taught the "two-finger" loop size. However, I realized that the trainer was a five foot tall woman and me being a six foot rather portly man my fingers were twice as wide as hers, she also realized this and I came up with the solution after I was told how fast film is supposed to move through a projector. So I cut a "training" leader out with 24 frams in clear and the rest in black and practiced for a day threading that up before threading my movies making sure the clear was at the sound reader and in front of the lens, thus ensuring the proper sync. Once I had my loop size memorized (little larger than one of my "trigger" finger) I always threaded that way.

As for the gate-popping, perhaps I chose a poor term as this indicates the gate opening completely and the film coming loose. What I meant was the gate being "snapped" momentarily and the film jumping sprockets thus making the loop even smaller (or in some instances MUCH larger) and often causing damage as well as visible gittering on the screen.

I also used the same method of checking my threading after it was done, by advancing the fly wheel. Also, since we used a lot of leader, after starting the motor I would observe and listen to the film traveling through the projector, even re-checking the framing. I would suggest that you be careful not to mistake criticism intended for mutual growth and learning for ridicule. Those that nit-pick over something like loop sizes could be responding to what they have seen as a result of too small of a loop.

Tony said:

quote:
the projector sounds different and louder.
I am compelled to comment that I think a projectionist gone blind could still work. In all honesty I have seen more mistakes go un-noticed by simply looking than all the ones I've picked up while training or checking my work by touch and sound. Sure, you would need an usher to wait in the auditorium to help you correct focus or identify a foreign object appearing on screen, but otherwise I am pretty sure I could have run my booth blind-folded. On a bet I threaded up blind-folded once, it just took a while. [Cool]

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 01-21-2003 04:10 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Barry Martin wrote: "I cut a "training" leader out with 24 frams in clear and the rest in black and practiced for a day threading that up before threading my movies making sure the clear was at the sound reader and in front of the lens, thus ensuring the proper sync. Once I had my loop size memorized (little larger than one of my "trigger" finger) I always threaded that way."

Standard SMPTE 40 specifies that analog sound is printed 21 frames ahead of the picture, not 24.

For most theatres, 20 frames between picture gate and analog sound pickup give proper sound sync in the middle of the theatre (assuming sound takes 1/24 second to travel from the screen speakers). For very small screening rooms or drive-ins, where you sit near the speakers, 21 frames provides proper sync.

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Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 01-22-2003 12:08 AM      Profile for Sean McKinnon   Author's Homepage   Email Sean McKinnon   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I am very appreciative of constructive critisism. I do not take kindly to bieng told I am wrong when I know I am right. I also do not take kindly to bieng mocked to techniciand over my correct practices.

But wasnt this about threading top to bottom?

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Peter Hall
Master Film Handler

Posts: 314
From: London, UK
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 01-22-2003 01:14 PM      Profile for Peter Hall   Author's Homepage   Email Peter Hall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have always laced from top to bottom, as I guess most people who grew up woth spools do. However I watch in awe at the superb film handling by staff of SHOWCASE in the UK - these guys run 9 to 14 plexes all day and always lace the Centurys from bottom to top - film never touches the floor, is easy to set the start position and takes seconds. I'm a mere engineer - these guys run up to 60 films a day and think I can learn a thing or 2 from them..

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Mike Baer
Film Handler

Posts: 51
From: Winterthur, Switzerland
Registered: Dec 2002


 - posted 01-22-2003 02:47 PM      Profile for Mike Baer   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Baer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I donīt thread bottom to top,because i find on the Vic 5 itīs difficult.
But i do NOT let the Leader touches the floor!
First i attach the Leader at the lower Sprocket,then thread the lower magazin roller and give tension,so that the Platter takes up.Then i grab the Leader from above,so that i have a have enough Film to thread.Then i make the frame in the Gate,then top Loop and then the lower Loop.I think it is familiar with the Clothespin-Technique.

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Scott D. Neff
Theatre Dork

Posts: 919
From: San Francisco, CA
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 01-23-2003 12:27 PM      Profile for Scott D. Neff   Author's Homepage   Email Scott D. Neff   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Down towards my last days in the booth I threaded bottom to top... it DOES make much more sense. But I didn't have enough time to get used to the idea. Besides, there's just some nostalgic romance involved in threading a movie the way you were taught (back in your good ole' days).

The problem I always had when training new booth people was that I had other operators who REFUSED to even try different methods so that no matter what I taught the new guys, the old guys would just end up un-learning them by showing them the easiest, laziest way possible.

I think I was still trying to get my Cinema West veterans to thread the entire platter first and THEN thread top to bottom. Most of them still pull ALL the leader through the payout assembly and then let it pile up underneath the projector, THREAD the projector and then bring it all back to the take-up. (and please don't get me started on how many times I told people that if they continued to pull the entire leader through in rapid jerking motions that the brains would get all screwy from too much abuse.)

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