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Author Topic: What problems do you have with 5 star sound heads? Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-18-2006 10:41 PM                     I know what "Magic Oil" is. But, I am unaware of "Guttag" ??  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-18-2006 11:50 PM                     ..the magnificant..Mr. Steve Guttag .. who loves his cheese. He'll probably chime in on this one.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-19-2006 10:10 PM                     quote: Eric Robinson I know what "Magic Oil" is. But, I am unaware of "Guttag" ?? Guttag????? A new cheese I am pretty sure. Pass the Guttag please....... . Mark  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-19-2006 10:44 PM                     I guess I have to keep raking the 5 Star over the coals, so here's my question. In my opinion I would think that the film tensioner in the soundhead ,aka as a dashpot in a Christie, would cut down on vertical jitter if it has the proper amount of dampening fluid so that it moves very slowly. I try to keep all of mine in good shape either by adding dampening fluid or by replacing the spring. Has anyone noticed significant improvement to vertical jitter from servicing this component? Also, when I show people how to thread the film in the sound head I tell them to pull the film taught, bringing the tensioner roller to the top of its travel, then back the film up about 1 or two sprockets. Does this sound appropriate?  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-20-2006 04:22 AM                     quote: Eric Robinson I tell them to pull the film taught, bringing the tensioner roller to the top of its travel, then back the film up about 1 or two sprockets. Does this sound appropriate? Okey...on that snub roller arm: you see two small stops on that small bracket that this assembly is mounted on - on behind and one in front of the snub roller arm?. That snub roller arm to be dead center inbetween the two stops.. - simple as that. Done this way for years with these 5-stars.. - Monte  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 04-20-2006 07:31 AM                     Actually, The 1-2 perforation setting is the correct one...setting in the middle is wrong. While it will work, it will not bring the impedance drum up to speed as fast and it creats excessive slack between the projector and soundhead upon start up. If you trace through the manuals on the 5-star since that form of the soundhead came out...it was always designed for just 1-2 perforations off of the pin. If you run reel-to-reel with 5-stars you will also discover why setting in the middle is not a good choice. As for the damped roller...there is a bit of skill involved on setting them just right...working with the spring and damping fluid. For good digital tracking, the rubber pinch roller must also be kept completely clean (Film Guard will tend to cake up a sticky residue on the rubber pinch roller so keep the roller clean). The better pinch rollers were the felt ones...they help digital track incredibly well. Steve  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-20-2006 05:21 PM                     Alright so now I have to try one of these felt friction rollers. Anyone know where I can pick one up? Also, supposing I wanted to redress a friction roller whos surface has become hard and slick, might I use some 400 grit sandpaper or some other abrasive to restore its grip?  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 04-20-2006 07:06 PM                     The felt ones are long out of production and they DO require upkeep to keep sharp things off them and to desaturate them from any lubricants, including FilmGuard. As for one that is worn out...just replace it with a new G-1985 roller. I prefer Strong's over others at the moment.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-20-2006 11:12 PM                     Actually I am kind of on Brad's side with using no roller at all. As long as there is no digital basement reader and you're running platter no roller si just fine. Otherwise use a roller... I agree with Steve on the rollers... the Strong rollers always seem to be more consistant and made to tighter tolerance... better materials. Mark  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-22-2006 04:54 AM                     I've tried that trick of Brad's and it's pretty slick. Reminds me of a Cinemeccanica rim roller variety. -Monte  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-22-2006 04:37 PM                     While browsing throught the manuals section in Film-Tech, I ran accross the following publication: Strong 5 Star basement reader problems FYI  |  IP: Logged Ian Bailey Master Film Handler Posts: 317 From: Nambucca Heads, Australia Registered: Jun 2003 posted 04-22-2006 07:33 PM                     Hi I've never fully understood "Brad's No Roller" method,any chance of a bit more explanation on this one! Ian  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-23-2006 02:09 AM                     You could make reference to the following topic: "Topic: What would cause this kind of damage to a film? (pictures)"  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-23-2006 02:23 AM                     quote: Ian Bailey I've never fully understood "Brad's No Roller" method First we know that the middle constant feed sprocket and the final holdback sprocket in the soundhead is what keeping the filmspeed constant between these two sprockets. The snub roller is acting like the dashpot roller inbetween these two sprockets - like the dashpot(airpot) assembly on a Christie, and the dashpot assembly on the Century soundhead. Basically, Brad's conversion is basically creating a version of what these two types of machines above are doing now. You thread the film to where the lateral guide roller, that just now has that spacer sleeve inbetween the two roller guides, is actually barely floating above the scanner drum with the film threaded rather snug between the two sprockets. The snub roller is keeping the floating lateral assembly under check. You just have to make the threading path rather more snug than before to make this really work... -Monte  |  IP: Logged Dan Lyons Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 698 From: Seal Beach, CA Registered: Sep 2002 posted 04-23-2006 04:24 AM                     This should explain it.  |  IP: Logged

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