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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1  2  3 
 
Author Topic: kinoton pk-60 vertical unsteadiness
Benjamin John Doman
Film Handler

Posts: 35
From: Slough, Berkshire, England
Registered: Jun 2007


 - posted 07-29-2007 11:48 AM      Profile for Benjamin John Doman   Email Benjamin John Doman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi All,
FYI A lot of the Kinoton parts have been coming out made of different materials in the last few years. Kinoton have been gradually changing over from Phillips parts to making their own, this being completed in the last couple of years. They now make everything 'in house', apart from spray painting which they can't do anymore due to EU regs. The fibre gears are the latest to change, being made of a white plastic type material now. Watch out if retro fitting the old brown shutter gear. The white gears expand 5x more & require 10mm backlash! [Wink] Ben

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 07-29-2007 12:54 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The story I hear on the delrin gears replacing fibre gears was due to health hazards of the fibre hobbing process (dust) as well as the life-spand of the hobbers was significantly shorter than with the delrin type.

Personally, I'm skeptical of the delrin gears too. There are very few gears in a Kinoton (sprocket drive that fit a chain, and the shutter drive). I'm surprised that this is such an issue for them. This is a case where LaVezzi or Wolk could probably make a more durable gear and not be afraid of the big bad fibre waste. Note, Wolk has been making gray plastic type gears for Century projectors and they seem to wear as good or BETTER than the fibre gears they have replaced.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-29-2007 01:37 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
The story I hear on the delrin gears replacing fibre gears was due to health hazards of the fibre hobbing process (dust) as well as the life-spand of the hobbers was significantly shorter than with the delrin type.

Sorry but thats a load of crap! The main problem is that there doesn't exist decent fibre (actually phenolic) in quantity and variety like there used to be... Fibre is nothing more than layers of linen cloth and resins layered up to the thickness and density you want. Part of the reason for phenolic's demise is the availability of superior composite materials... which are probably alot more dangerous to inhale than fibre dust. Wolk is using a good composite material in their gears at the moment and the wearability is darn good(when you get good ones). As for fibre... LaVezzi seems to still have a good source of it.. probably made to their specs... but it IS more expensive.

So... no one has explained why the plastic couplers yet? Seems stupid to put a weak fuse in a good product. Geez, what would the already expensive projector cost with the old styl;e coupler... a couple hundred more [Roll Eyes] . Big deal!

Mark

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 07-29-2007 03:21 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Maybe they decided to make it out of delrin, since the Germans are so in love with that stuff. [Razz]

Seriously, what's Wolk's contact info. That damned coupler is pretty much my only headache with the PK60s. When using the projector with their lamphouses (and glass reflector), obviously the heat isn't a problem. But since the PK60 projector is specifically designed to be mounted on other's lamphouses, they really should've realized that heat would be an issue and that plastic nonsense wouldn't cut it.

Just run one show with a failed (or unplugged) circulator on a 6K lamp and watch what happens!

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-30-2007 05:31 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Better a plastic coupler fail than a cam and star damaged in a pile up
I very rarely have to replace either Ballantyne or Phillips couplers
A lot depends on just how competent the operators are at framing racking and gate tension

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Samuel Andrew Wetzel
Film Handler

Posts: 16
From: Appleton, Wisconsin, USA
Registered: Apr 2006


 - posted 08-02-2007 08:22 PM      Profile for Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Email Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for all of the advice everyone. Brad, although the water cooler seemed to be working fine it wasn't (and I did forget to mention that there was a heat filter mounted). I ran a loop of Flat Buena Vista green bands after a show and the film was bouncing everywhere. I waited for the projector to cool and sure enough, the image was relatively steady. I replaced the water circulator today, as well as reverse the film-runner strips and replace the plastic skate. It's working much better now, I ordered a new intermittent as well.

I may have missed this in a previous post, but where can I purchase the metal varieties of the skate and runners?

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 08-02-2007 09:10 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
No, no, no, no, no. Don't order a replacement intermittent. It's the intermittent COUPLER (or framing coupler, however they have it listed) that you have to replace! Kinoton should do a repair/exchange on that item for not too much money. (Don't forget to empty the oil before you change it!)

Your dealer should be able to order you the metal runners.

Also, make sure you get the height of the new skate set properly or you will chew it up. That also affects vertical steadiness.

When you change out the coupler, there is a bit of a procedure to tightening the 4 allen screws on the end cap equally as well as the flat head screw you see there as well. Best to talk to your tech or contact Kinoton America so it gets done right.

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Randy Bowden
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 146
From: Portland, OR, USA
Registered: Aug 2000


 - posted 08-03-2007 10:34 AM      Profile for Randy Bowden   Email Randy Bowden   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, what Brad said! Do not replace the intermittent! To replace the coupler aka framing bushing you need to remove the entire film trap assy from the machine, there are 4 short allen head screws holding it in. After the trap is out you need to rack the framing knob all the way in one direction to push the coupler out of the machine. You might find a technician to do it for you if you do not feel confident. You should also get a small allen head screw along with the part, you thread that into the old coupler to pull it out of the machine, if you don't get the screw, it can still be removed, but may need a pair of pliers to do it!

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Samuel Andrew Wetzel
Film Handler

Posts: 16
From: Appleton, Wisconsin, USA
Registered: Apr 2006


 - posted 08-03-2007 08:16 PM      Profile for Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Email Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
my mistake. it's listed as a framing coupler...i'll order it. thanks

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Larry Shaw
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 238
From: Boston, MA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 08-14-2007 06:16 PM      Profile for Larry Shaw   Author's Homepage   Email Larry Shaw   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
After a nice vacation I return to see a number of strange comments about Kinotons.

First, note that Mr. Wetzel writes "when i run test film...such as RP-40 the image is stable, however, when an actual movie is shown the shaking is noticable". That of course is a clear indication that the problem is unstable images on the prints, not a projector problem. Also, let me point out that the auditorium in question, which I have visited on a courtesy call, has an enormous screen, perhaps 80' wide. That is why only that one house in the complex has a Kinoton...the previous projector (as used in their smaller screens) looked nasty on this giant screen.

Second, as far as I and my colleauges here and in Germany know, there have never been any Kinoton or Philips coupler interior made of metal of any sort. We also have original vellums of nearly all the Philips parts and the couplers are clearly made of Delrin. If anyone has such a thing I'd love to see it, but I sincerely doubt it ever existed. It is true that some few years ago production of the couplers changed from Philips to Kinoton. This is because Philips, who now is an enormous manufacturer of all sorts of things, just wasn't interested in making parts (framing couplers) for types of products they no longer made. Kinoton now makes the couplers, which are very nearly the same as the Philips-produced ones. Regarding MiT or others making knock-off couplers and the use of "a ten cent part", I have seen the manufacture of the new couplers which include high precision injection molded components as well as the metalwork and individual testing and I can assure everyone that this is not an inexpensive part to make, and that the startup costs to make the first ones would be extremely high.

My experience with lots of these machines gives me insight to to issues related to all this talk of a lowering of stability.

One problem is heat. There is no question that extreme gate tempratures result in less stability. Kinoton has always offered gate cooling kits and water coolers (with actual heat exchangers or chillers; not the inefective pump-in-a-bucket things), and reccomended them over 3kW. Most projection engineers will tell you that running high wattage lamps without cooling is a poor idea on several counts. Some consoles with metal reflectors have particularly high heat output and when run without heat filters are almost guaranteed to produce a poor picture. As lots of theatres now have large bulbs, this is a more prevalent problem.

A second problem is gate tension. Kinoton uses Delrin in the gate because it is a slippery plastic that lets the film glide through the gate more easily reducing film damage and producing a more stable picture. Over the last few years I have seen the following scenario that ends up making the Kinoton gate design look bad due to a lack of understanding. A print comes in that is unstable (due to the giant print orders now common; Deluxe Toronto routinely prints 10-15 million feet a day). The operator tries to correct the movement by increasing gate tension. There is no, or little, change. Either shoulders are shrugged or a new print is ordered (good luck). What usually does not happen is that the gate tension is reduced by the old technique of lowering it 'till there's a bit of jump, then increasing it just a bit. So the gate tension remains very high wearing away at the skate, runner strip and coupler. This same thing happens to all machines treated thusly, but the wear shows up sooner on the Delrin parts. And as Brad mentions, we do make steel runner strips...we also have harder, longer lasting skates. But the real answer is to keep the gate tension at a minimum, something I was taught a zillion years ago as an apprentice.

Theatres that run Kinotons with adequate cooling (water and/or filters as needed) and low gate tension generally have very long lives for their couplers and gate parts. And places like studios and DI facilities use Kinoton projectors with Delrin parts because they want the most stability available. I think the bigger issues here are not equipment quality, but application and operation.

Larry

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-14-2007 06:46 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Gordon McLeod
Better a plastic coupler fail than a cam and star damaged in a pile up

Plastic couplers rarely save the Ballantyne star as large as it is... unfortunately it is not a case hardened star and cam like the Century or Simplex and many times the tip of the star breaks off... webbed or not the webbing doesn't help all that much. I almost always have to replace the star and cam after a nasty pile up on a PRO-35. And I too agree it all translates to the competance of the person in the booth!! There are a couple of Ballantynes left out here that have never broken down... good operator.

Larry,

I definately had a bronze coupler in an FP-20 way way back, thats why I brought it up. The replacement coupler came from Jim Eves. I can't see any reason that it couldn't be bronze again except for cost. Certainly is alot more durable... and heat resistant. There are places that specialize in the manufacture of splines and the like.

With the use of Delrin couplers water cooling with large lamps is mandatory and a water flow switch should also be mandatory in the fail safe loop to shut things off in the advent of water pump failure or low cooling fluid level.

While we're on the subject of bounce you might want to check the E-Machine at Sundance sometime soon(talk to Vince or Greg)!! Seems it doesn't do too well running acetate stuff.

Mark

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-14-2007 07:44 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I think a bronze coupler might have issues with thermal expansion in a high heat enviroment (try slideing out a brass apperture in a hot machine in some cases)
I think I replaced one kinoton coupler and the only ballantyne ones are from a bad pile up that shouldn't have happened if the operator had looked after things

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Stephen Jones
Master Film Handler

Posts: 314
From: Geelong Victoria Australia
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-17-2007 09:08 PM      Profile for Stephen Jones   Email Stephen Jones   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I find what Larry Shaw say's interesting information and agree what he say's.The Kinoton FP50D's I have are 7 years old now and have not had any couplers fail in that time and all still give a rock steady image even on our biggest screen which is 55'.Heat isnt a problem either as we are using cooling supplied by Kinoton.Only time we get unsteady image is due to the print but that is rare as most are printed here in Australia.I find the the runer strips are excellant and last very well and can get 18 months out of them maybe more depending on use.As Larry mentioned you dont need much tension on the film.I cant see the point in using steel runners and making enquiries here they dont stock them so why bother as the runners currently supplied by Kinoton wear well and do the job and are gentle to the film and again have not had any problems.Kinotons are a fine projector but like any machine they have problems ocassionly but nothing major and any problems are attended to by Kinoton techs here.If they are looked after they will run troube free 99% of the time.

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Samuel Andrew Wetzel
Film Handler

Posts: 16
From: Appleton, Wisconsin, USA
Registered: Apr 2006


 - posted 11-08-2007 12:07 AM      Profile for Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Email Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Larry,

Didn't mean to scare you with any comments about kinotons. They are amazing machines...and I did realize that if the RP-40 or schneider test loops run with almost zero bob or weave that the vertical shaking is due to a combination of print problems, heat, and, like you mentioned, the incredible amount of magnification for a 35 mm print. I had to simply plead ignorance because, being the only kinoton in operation here, I didn't know too much at the time about it...and I was looking for ways to minimize the shaking even with the negative factors. Although we have a pretty worthless water circulator, changing the skates and pressure pads frequently, making sure the pad is tight against the intermittent sproket, and keeping it clean keep the shaking to a level unnoticeable by the general public. It was interesting to hear that you've been at our location...must have been a while before I started working here though.

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Larry Shaw
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 238
From: Boston, MA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 11-08-2007 07:56 AM      Profile for Larry Shaw   Author's Homepage   Email Larry Shaw   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sam,

Luckily it takes quite a bit more that that to scare me. However I'm glad the picture is looking good. And I'm happy to know someone at your theatre is trying to put on a technically proficient show (unlike so many others).

If the water cooler isn't keeping the gate cool, moving the pump into a substantially larger water tank would help, but far better is putting a small radiator (like an automotive heater core) in series with the return water line and having a small fan blow over the fins. Or of course one could buy a properly engineered water cooler...as opposed to the essentially useless water relocation device I believe you currently have.

I visited about two years ago, shortly after the now-closed giant screen theatre opened downtown. That place has a 35/4 + 70/5 + 70/8 Kinoton. Unfortunately I guess Appleton has a small audience for that sort of facility.

Larry

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