Film-Tech Cinema Systems
Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE


  
my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home
  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Christie AW3R Timing (Page 3)

 
This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4 
 
Author Topic: Christie AW3R Timing
Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 12-07-2007 02:34 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
..and you can't go up to the 70 ohm setting on your VOM with the shutter at the correct mark on the braindisc?..sounds like a sensor photocell getting ready to go kaput, or variances in DC voltage to the LED making the sensor give you those readings.

 |  IP: Logged

Thomas Dieter
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 234
From: Yakima, WA
Registered: Jun 2004


 - posted 12-07-2007 01:28 PM      Profile for Thomas Dieter   Email Thomas Dieter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
...and you can't go up to the 70 ohm setting on your VOM with the shutter at the correct mark on the braindisc?..sounds like a sensor photocell getting ready to go kaput, or variances in DC voltage to the LED making the sensor give you those readings.
I'm using the setting described in first initial post of this thread. I does go up to 70 ohm, as i brought one of them down from 80, and brought the other up from 20 or so.

quote: Thomas Dieter
Volt Meter Setting 20M Ω
LED Intensity at 20º = 0.45Ω
At 20º motor barely moves or "growls"
At 70º 20 rotations per minute

Like you said Monte, I think I caught something that is about to go bad early on. I don't think I've ever seen this happen. Even after I walked away to check something else to let it settle, it was going 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 48, 49, 50, 49, 48, 47, 46, 45, 44, 45.... Completely random on when it would come back down or go up.

I did hear when setting the speed of the of those 2 decks the motor speeding up and slowing down over the course of timing them. I'll have to look around and see if I have any spare LED's sitting in a cabinet.

 |  IP: Logged

Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 12-07-2007 02:30 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
....what you could do is start swapping around motor control cards then - see if the one card that the problem deck is associated with travels to another deck, and after you doing the complete LED intensitiy adjustments with that swapped card.

Those motor control cards can get funky as well..

Good luck - Monte

 |  IP: Logged

Thomas Dieter
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 234
From: Yakima, WA
Registered: Jun 2004


 - posted 01-25-2008 12:57 AM      Profile for Thomas Dieter   Email Thomas Dieter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L. Fullmer
Sensor part (the older one) no. 192847-002 ... and stock a couple of these ..
Is there a difference in the setting of the Red LED settings, and the Green LED settings? Up until now, we've not had a problem with one of our platters that has 2 Red LEDs and 1 Green LED. The Green LED's calibrate fine, but the green ones just don't seem to have the ability to push 0.45Ω. Maximum I'm able to get out of it is 0.178Ω.

Is there a different setting for this LED?

 |  IP: Logged

Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-25-2008 01:35 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sorry, Thomas - I can't answer that one since I'm ignorant on the new sensors. I haven't done a AW3R since 2002 when I was with REG and left them for a small circuit and now doing STRONG equipment, but for the few short years that I was with EDW's, learned quite the deal about Christie products.

I still once in a while, do work in a AW3, but the older ones and you don't know how bad I miss these Christies.

Maybe Mark will pop on and he can give you info on the green LED's

good luck - Monte

 |  IP: Logged

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-25-2008 08:28 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The green LED's have a slower fade rate but they still do fade. I believe the CDS cells are also a tad bit more responsive to the green spectrum than red. There should be heat shrink tubing around the od of the LED so that just the tip of the LED peaks out.

Christie abandoned the old style cell in all its new platters starting about two years back. As far as I'm concerned the new sensor kit is the best thing thats happened to the AW-3. Now when an old style sensor fails I just install the kit. Its cheap too. No LED adjustment to do ... just high and low speed. Haven't had to go back and re-tweek any of the platters that have received them. The platters are also far more responsive because there is no memory like there is with the old CDS cells that were used. After installation just set the high speed for 24 rpm with the feed fingers all the way over on high and then at 20 degrees so the motor just doesn't creep. The instructions tell you to set it so it just creeps but setting it so it just doesn't creep seems to work better in the long run.

Mark

 |  IP: Logged

Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 01-25-2008 11:16 AM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen

The platters are also far more responsive because there is no memory like there is with the old CDS cells that were used.

What do you mean by this?

 |  IP: Logged

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-25-2008 02:13 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
CDS cells are slow to respond to light changes... sort of like a capacitive effect of charge/discharge. You can see this slower change when setting up platters with the old cells in them. Thats why they say let them warm up for 15 min. before doing adjustments...

Mark

 |  IP: Logged

Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 01-25-2008 02:25 PM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ah. Yes, I have heard of this. I just didn't know that's what you meant by "memory."

 |  IP: Logged

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-25-2008 02:39 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Photographers who used to use CDS Cell type exposure meters also had to get used to this phenomonon so they could read the proper exposure. Just takes a little patience.

Mark

 |  IP: Logged

Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 01-25-2008 10:58 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Speaking of AW3s... what is the concensus of opinion on the filter spring tension? I've been putting 3 turns on units I've rebuilt and it still seems like too much.

 |  IP: Logged

Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 01-26-2008 07:56 AM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've used five turns and not had any problems. This was with the same spring that was already in there. If you're using a new spring, maybe they are stiffer.

I suppose someone could get a hold of a new axle assembly and unwind the filter to see how many turns they put on it at the factory.

 |  IP: Logged

Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 01-28-2008 09:10 PM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I never count the turns. I just wind them so that the brain plate arm returns to home. I back off the tension until it fails to return all the way and then I add one turn to make it work. I find that the feed out is more reponsive to the position of the film when there isnt excessive spring tension.

 |  IP: Logged

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-28-2008 09:53 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
1.5 to 2 turns maximum seems to work fine. So the arm sweeps back in about 1 second or so... ys don't want it to snap back to stop. Too much tension and the arm and film will be fighting to pay out. Ya can tell when there is too much tension by the fact that the film wraps back around the PO head... moving the fingers to the left speeds it up... so the platter is timed right... but too much tension on the spring is keeping it from paying even steven. I think Brad covered this somewhere perhaps in the tips section...

Also... VERY IMPORTANT! Be sure the platter is absolutely level... use a sensitive level (not some piece of crap from Wal-Mart or Home Depot) to level one of the platter arms. If the platter happens to be leveled towards the full on position then the lightly wound return spring is going to have a hell of a time draging the filter assy back to stop position.

Mark

 |  IP: Logged

Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 01-30-2008 01:24 PM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Cheers cheers - very good point, I have wasted many hours in the past before I considered this simple but very important concept.
[beer]

 |  IP: Logged



All times are Central (GMT -6:00)
This topic comprises 4 pages: 1  2  3  4 
 
   Close Topic    Move Topic    Delete Topic    next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:



Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.

© 1999-2020 Film-Tech Cinema Systems, LLC. All rights reserved.