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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » What's The Proper Way To Return A Print? (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: What's The Proper Way To Return A Print?
Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-23-2008 12:19 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
And as always...I've found emulsion-in to be preferred on all of the 2-projector systems I'm responsible for, including with modern poly prints. I also will continue to fully attach leaders/tails.

Steve

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 04-23-2008 12:54 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad, why do you think the SMPTE test was done on 6,000-foot reels? I don't see any reference to that in the paper, and it makes explicit reference to "standard release reels of approximately 1,800 ft each," as well as other references to 2,000' reels.

We should all recognize the emulsion-in advice was based on acetate film-base. Various people have reported other preferences for polyester; it seems like a lot has to do with humidity and climate, and thus with location.

Going back a bit, I generally find it's possible to securely tape down reels without damaging the barcode/copy# sticker, and I do find it useful to have them readable. Yes, in theory there are databases which have the precise correspondence. But reels do get moved around between prints and that is not always trackable. (Yes, I also realize that heads may move between prints as well. I do what I can).

--jhawk

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 04-23-2008 01:19 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
John, a long time ago John Pytlak explained the hub to outer wrap on 6K reels as being the primary reason for that paper.

And sadly more often than not prints that Steve plays will have that first frame chopped off by the next guy because most people are too lazy to peel a double sided splice. That advice is simply not in the best interest of the print.

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Richard P. May
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 243
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Jan 2006


 - posted 04-23-2008 01:20 PM      Profile for Richard P. May   Email Richard P. May   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The trouble with shipping a print to a theater emulsion in is that it is the opposite of standard U.S. projection practice.
If the projectionist does not catch this, the image is going to hit the screen "flipped" left to right.
The film would have to come off the reel clockwise (off the front of the reel), which does such things as make reel end alarms inoperative.
I am, of course, speaking only for reel to reel operation.

RPM

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 04-23-2008 01:23 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's only true of head-out emulsion-in. Tail-out emulsion-in is fully consistent with the typical S-wind.

--jhawk

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-23-2008 01:42 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Richard said "The film would have to come off the reel clockwise (off the front of the reel), which does such things as make reel end alarms inoperative"
The Jackson reel alarms had no issues with either direction

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Ron Funderburg
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 814
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma, USA
Registered: Nov 2007


 - posted 04-23-2008 01:44 PM      Profile for Ron Funderburg   Author's Homepage   Email Ron Funderburg   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does anyone else miss the paper reel protectors that use to come on each reel? It made keeping the head and tail simple you put the head tail wound up inside it! I think if that is a dollar savings for Technicolor and Deluxe it is a false economy!

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Richard P. May
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 243
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Jan 2006


 - posted 04-23-2008 02:02 PM      Profile for Richard P. May   Email Richard P. May   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ron,
What is a "head tail"? Yes, the old reel bands, used properly, kept the film wound securely, but I don't see how they would make sloppy people put them on the correct reels with their little strings wound around the tab.

John,
Of course your are right about tails out being emulsion in, but I was referring to the print being ready to show.

RPM

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-23-2008 04:19 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Richard, I think most, if not all of my reel-to-reel screens run emulsion-in on both upper and lower reels. The AFI being a notable exception, running a conventional S-Wind....but I will get them converted too!

As for the frame being chopped...that is up to the NEXT guy...nothing I did prevented them from peeling. I also don't like to encourage the platter thing...if they are reel-to-reel (sensible people), they will be appreciative...then again if it ran on 20-min reels at my theatre...all of the splices (if a used print run in a large-reel/platter house previously), would have a full splice...is it the shipping theatre's responsibility to peel one half of the splice before shipping?

Note, too, I never argued Brad's not leaving an ID frame point since really, in essence, the ID frame requires the original theatre (1st run) to compromise their show (out of sync sound pull up) in order to allow the subsequent run to feel-good about the reel order when there are several means of determining reel order in any case.

Steve

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 04-23-2008 07:37 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I think that the overwhelming majority of reel to reel theaters in the US that are not setup by Steve actually do follow the traditional S wind. On the flip side, all of the reel to reel theaters I setup wind exclusively emulsion out on feed and takeup, like the labs do, because that is the right way to do it. (Right Steve? [Razz] [Moon] ) But if you go to the average run-of-the-mill changeover theater (it is often hard to find them, but look closely) you will see the traditional S wind of emulsion out feed and emulsion in takeup is in use. Telluride Film Festival follows that practice as well primarily as I am told because it is what everyone is used to so as not to confuse anyone.

As far as a reel to reel theater untaping one side of a splice upon shipout, absolutely not. Leave it as it is because the next theater may be another reel to reel theater and I am all about not handling the film any more than it absolutely has to. However if the film was mounted on 6000' reels or a tower or a platter, then by all means a single sided splice should be used. Should that print happen to find itself in a 2000' changeover house on it's next playdate (with odds of probably less than 1% chance of that actually happening), then any good changeover operator is already well seasoned to expect everything from masking tape to stapled on leaders and will simply add the second side of tape before they project it.

On the ID frame issue, if someone absolutely HAS to cut a frame off, then it should ONLY be done on the head of the reel. Those who find it too difficult to give a "positive match" without an ID frame can simply do it at the head of the reel, and at least that only causes a 1 frame jump in continuity at the splice, and it also doesn't screw over a changeover theater that may end up playing the print (because remember, those guys are expecting 18 frames after the second cue mark).

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Derrick Huggins
Film Handler

Posts: 27
From: Gotham City
Registered: Feb 2008


 - posted 04-27-2008 06:57 PM      Profile for Derrick Huggins     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
hmmm i have always just used masking tape . and had heads out, tails in. i dont bother to resplice, just run the film over with masking tape is fine.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 04-27-2008 06:58 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Oh boy are YOU in the wrong place!

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Justin Hamaker
Film God

Posts: 2253
From: Lakeport, CA USA
Registered: Jan 2004


 - posted 04-27-2008 09:32 PM      Profile for Justin Hamaker   Author's Homepage   Email Justin Hamaker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't know if this is a "good" practice, but I actually prefer to just tuck the head and tail under the film rather than adding more tape and/or splices to the film.

And I echo the others about the fold over tab on the tape. This makes it so much easier to pull off the next time around.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 04-28-2008 02:40 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Tucking the leaders is evil. When the next guy goes to unwind it, often the loose film will flap over from gravity and slap the ground. Please be a professional and single sided splice the leaders (BOTH head and tail) back on.

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Jim Cassedy
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1661
From: San Francisco, CA
Registered: Dec 2006


 - posted 04-28-2008 12:57 PM      Profile for Jim Cassedy   Email Jim Cassedy   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Ron Funderburg
Does anyone else miss the paper reel protectors that use to come on each reel?

Being an old time reel-to-reel operator I do miss the paper reel bands. Contrary to presnt day accepted practice, one of the FIRST things I was taught by an old union projectionist was to NEVER use tape in any capacity on film. This included using tape for splicing. The reasoning was that the adheasive would only eventualy find its' way into gunking up your projectors.

Prior to the advent of non-acetate filmstocks, tape splices were considered by many people (including myself) to be unprofessional and lazy excuses for "real" splices.

The problem I currently find with paper reel bands is that most guys don't understand how to properly attach/use them. Their number one mistake is that they TAPE the end of reel band to the end of the film. No no no no NOOOOO!! No! This only 1)ruins the reel band when you try & re-use it; 2) Defeats one of the purposes of the reel band, which was to keep you from having to apply tape to the film at all. (thus gunking up the projectors again)

The reel band was made to be secured by using the string that was (usually!) attached to it. Yes, I know the strings often broke off, but any good operator kept a small spool of spare string in a drawer (right next to the splicing fluid....) to repair reel bands with broken strings. One thing you didn't find in that drawer was tape. NEVER!!!!

But I suppose I'm living in the past. [Big Grin]

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