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Author Topic: Changing Trailers on a Platter Bryan M. Montgomery Film Handler Posts: 47 From: Chillicothe, Ohio Registered: Jul 2007 posted 06-25-2008 10:02 AM                        Excellent idea Monte. Wish I'd thought of that years ago. Phil, who makes the "Film Spinner?" Where did you get yours? I saw a guy from Dayton make a similar tool years ago that had a power drill bit in the top, chuck it in the drill, tape on the offending trailer and pull the trigger. It was fun to switch the drill to reverse and send a junked trailer flying.  |  IP: Logged Michael Brown Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1522 From: Bradford, England Registered: May 2001 posted 06-30-2008 07:08 PM                     I guess it's about technique and lots of practice. As a trainee it's one of the things i'm finding hard at the moment. I just need to speak to my trainer to improve my technique and soldier on. Hopefully over time it'll become like second nature.  |  IP: Logged Adam Lautenbach Film Handler Posts: 9 From: Beloit, WI, US Registered: Feb 2009 posted 04-22-2009 11:51 PM                    quote: Brad Miller One of my projectionists has agreed to videotape changing trailers in a few different styles, so we'll see if we can't whip something up here. where are these?  |  IP: Logged Michael Hossen Expert Film Handler Posts: 136 From: Perth, Australia Registered: Apr 2007 posted 04-23-2009 12:02 AM                        The easiest way I have found is to use a spinner as previously discussed. Makes it very easy and fast to change out trailers/ film ads, which we have to do on a weekly basis.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-23-2009 12:26 AM                     quote: Adam Lautenbach where are these? Someone just haven't submitted any videos of this technique yet...  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 04-23-2009 12:29 AM                     I'll get to it when I can. Spare time isn't something I have seen in a long, long time, and also Joe isn't here. Instructional videos just aren't as good without Joe being a part of them, ya know.  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 04-23-2009 02:06 AM                     With Joe involved you could make a video which shows the right way to do it and the wrong way. This could be very entertaining, making sure of course to use Strong platters at full speed to generate mighty gales.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-23-2009 03:23 AM                     quote: Eric Robinson Strong platters at full speed to generate mighty gales. ..esp. with us that don't have the newer AP3 platters with every roller having a keeper roller next to it. We're still stuck with A3/early AP3 units with no keepers, or just the one keeper roller on the bottom roller on the payout side. Also, when some of us forget NOT to be paying out on a platter that is below the breakdown platter, but to remember to move that print to the platter above so the rewind platter is then below the breakdown platter. Then the gale forced winds have no affect of the film in usage. ('sides, Joe's a great actor - we love his version of 'show and tell' pertaining to booth operations... . So, why the flip is he behind the projector when he could easily be in front of the lens.....) -Monte  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 04-23-2009 12:25 PM                        Thanks guys. Monte, you can easily drill threaded holes for keepers on your Strongs like I did. When I got my platters in, they were used and damaged beyond almost every conceivable way. I ordered almost every new part new except for the actual tree. That included new motors, new variacs, 100% all new rollers and posts, tension sensors, decks, the works. Of course this was years and years and years ago. I drilled holes for keepers since I ordered the posts and rollers for them as well. I need to wait for the proper spindles for my PRT Ultra tables to arrive because now I must spin the flange by hand. Then maybe I will make a video about changing trailers.  |  IP: Logged William T. Parr Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 823 From: Cedar Park, TX Registered: Nov 2000 posted 04-23-2009 02:31 PM                     quote: Brad Miller Instructional videos just aren't as good without Joe being a part of them, ya know. Joe has been the Bomb in all of them. I bet he could do well in some of the Hollywood Slapstick Comidies. Maybe even academy award stuff.  |  IP: Logged Troy Hilsman Powell Film Handler Posts: 30 From: Jacksonville,FL Registered: May 2007 posted 04-23-2009 05:33 PM                     We always just use a trailer break down reel which you can get at goldberg brothers.Works for me...  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 04-23-2009 11:26 PM                     quote: Joe Redifer you can easily drill threaded holes for keepers on your Strongs like I did Oh I do agree, but I've worked with these units for quite a while and have easily adjusted to what and how to work with them and have no problems with them at all. Plus, if I do this roller mod to all of the platters that we have, all I'd be doing is doing somebody a favor. Also, the staff at the other theatres have also adjusted to these platters in make and break procedures with no problems...so why make the change. ..just, I do miss my AW3R's.... -Monte  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 04-24-2009 02:12 AM                        Since I don't have any of the specialized reels for changing trailers - aside from the 19" ring for the AW3's, I've had to be a little creative. The show prior to the change, I use the 19" ring so I have extra room to work with. I prep the trailer on the bench and wind it back on a trailer core. I splice the trailer onto the leader or another trailer and then put slide it on a trailer flange (? proper name). I put the flange on a screw driver and just use the platter motor to wind the trailer onto the platter. Then drop it into the middle of the print and splice it together. When I do this, I go through the rollers for the take-up arm so I ensure the film is running onto the platter at the right angle. Including the prep work, it takes me less than 10 minutes to change out a trailer this way. When I have to remove a trailer, I will run it down to the head of the trailer(s) I want to remove, cut the splice, and lift out the trailer(s) to be removed. At least if it's something I don't intend/need to reuse. Then I just throw it away. If it's something I need to reuse or return to the studio then I'll cut it at the head and run it onto an empty ring and pull it off onto a house reel with the MUT.  |  IP: Logged Joe Tommassello Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 547 From: Coatesville, PA, USA Registered: Jan 2008 posted 04-24-2009 03:22 PM                  I didn't work as hard as Justin. I had a plastic reel the I snipped one side off of and then used some old film and cardboard to make a new "hub" that was about an inch wider in diameter than my brain - the platter brain, not the one in my head. I would remove the ring, identify the outgoing trailer(s) on the print and remove it attaching the head and tail of the trailers after and before it. Then I would remove the policy trailer at the head of the print and wind it onto my homemade trailer makeup reel and attach the ongoing trailer(s) to it. Then I simply dropped it into the start of the print and attached the tail to the head of the first remaining trailer. I made the changes to my program sheet and was done. Fortunately the new Strong platters had no problem keeping up speed to accomodate the narrow diameter at the start of the show.  |  IP: Logged Graham Ritchie Film Handler Posts: 54 From: Christchurch, New Zealand Registered: Apr 2009 posted 04-29-2009 09:40 PM                     Hi Folks I am new here... I have some photos you might be interested in how we go about, in most cases changing the adds and trailers. The snake. With the snake removed, we lift out the ring complete with the trls and adds all of which have a white removable sticker on the outside of the splice, placed on the frame line and across the sound track, from there its just a case of peeling away the splice. A previous projectionist came up with this idea of using an old reel, it works well, clamp the ring with its adds and trls... and. rewind the trls/adds back onto there cores. when the trls or adds, or both are removed then its just a case of swapping things around on the bench "the above photo still shows removing" and then starting from the front "leader" splice the adds and trls in order. The cinema where I work "three screens" is part of a shopping mall and runs 12-14 hours a day 7 days a week, we allow a 15 minute gap between sessions "I do the schedule as well" its easy to change a trailer within that time frame and quite often we can change a lot more and still manage to start on time, as far as adds and trls are concerned we dont place more than about four trailers, so the feature should hit the screen no later than about 15 minutes from the start. Well thats just one way of doing things, hope you find it of interest. Graham.  |  IP: Logged

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