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Author Topic: How do I get my long shaft out of this hole? Jonathan Worthing Master Film Handler Posts: 384 From: Hereford, UK Registered: Apr 2001 posted 09-03-2008 10:04 AM                     This may not work but you never know. Use an old Tap & thread it in to the centre of the pin. This will give you something to hold on to to pull the pin out. As I say It may not work but depending how tight it is in the hole you should get some movment.  |  IP: Logged Robert Minichino Master Film Handler Posts: 350 From: Haskell, NJ, USA Registered: Dec 2005 posted 09-03-2008 10:16 AM                        When I was in the field without a properly sized punch, I actually used a tap to simultaneously push a roll pin out of its hole and thread the hole for a screw. (This was for a different application.)  |  IP: Logged John Walsh Film God Posts: 2490 From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way Registered: Oct 1999 posted 09-03-2008 04:58 PM                     Some info on Neumade tables before the years go by and I forget ... Neumade made many different tables that allowed you to clamp (or bolt) several different rewinders to. This seeemed to be the way things were done from the 'beginning' to the middle 1950's. But from what I can tell, (from the company documentation) Neumade's first 'integrated' rewind table was the 'Power Rewind Table 35/70.' This model came out of the design that was originally made for Cinerama, and started selling in the late 1950's for 70mm theaters. (There are several earlier 1950's dated photos in the archives showing tables with motors built-in holding those large Cinerama-type reels.) The PRT 37/70 originally only had 1/2" spindles, but after the PRT Ultra was released, you could get a retro-kit to make them changable. It had a foot pedal you pressed on to apply more rewinding torque. It was discontinued around 1975. Most of the 'head' parts (spindles, collars, shafts, etc.) are still available. But (sorry) the motor, motor cradle, foot pedal parts, drawers, panels, legs, etc. are not made anymore. The Power Rewind Table 35/70, below: Not every theater needed a heavy-duty table, so in the early 1960's Neumade also made the PRT Ultra. It was designed with changable spindles, and a dead-side foot pedel to control tension. The motor controller is an AC controller, which means the low speed regulation is not very good. Most spindle parts, heads and the controller are still available. I saw a few white table tops in storage a few years ago, so if you really want one they might still be there. The PRT Ultra was discontinued in 1995 or so when the PRU Ultra II came out. PRT Ultra: The PRT Ultra II is the current table. It uses a DC controller for a smoother speed control, a feature where the tension on the film stays constant as the rolls on each side get bigger/smaller. The spindles are different than the ones used for previous tables. No operator nowadays wants to stand on a foot pedal, so it's gone from the design. PRT Ultra II I have newer manuals and a 'spindle guide' for all these tables which I will email Brad & Co. tonight.  |  IP: Logged John Hawkinson Film God Posts: 2273 From: Cambridge, MA, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 09-04-2008 12:03 AM                     We've got a table with an HFC PR1A on it (footpedal speed control) that I'm quite happy with (esp the tightwind). The handcrank side is a Neumade dynamic. Does HFC have anything that's competitive with Kelmar these days? We've also got a Neumade Super-X. Not quite as solid as the PR1A, but still pretty decent... --jhawk  |  IP: Logged David Boyd Film Handler Posts: 17 From: Edinburgh, Midlothian, UK Registered: Sep 2008 posted 09-04-2008 06:43 AM                     We call them roll pins here. You bash them out with a drift and hammer. New ones will be tight but are meant to be so they lock when they go in. You can buy a roll pin set and drifts on line easily. Good luck!  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Worthing Master Film Handler Posts: 384 From: Hereford, UK Registered: Apr 2001 posted 09-04-2008 08:56 AM                     I thought the point he was trying to make was the one pin is not is all the way through. So yes you can bash the one out with a drift but not the other.  |  IP: Logged Rick Raskin Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1100 From: Manassas Virginia Registered: Jan 2003 posted 09-04-2008 12:32 PM                     quote: Jonathan Worthing Use an old Tap & thread it in to the centre of the pin. This will give you something to hold on to to pull the pin out. Also, try heating the thing with a blowtorch to make it expand while you pull out the pin. Other option, just drill it out.  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Worthing Master Film Handler Posts: 384 From: Hereford, UK Registered: Apr 2001 posted 09-15-2008 04:54 AM                     Joe Any luck  |  IP: Logged Joshua Waaland Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 800 From: Cleveland, Ohio Registered: Dec 1999 posted 09-16-2008 05:33 AM                     I see everyone saying to drill the roll pin out. Do not drill the roll pin!!! I learned the hard way several times (I forget easily). Roll pins are hardened and you will just end up breaking your drill bit trying to get it out. Don't waste your time. You will probably need to use an easy out and try to twist it out enough to take pressure off of the spindle to pull the spindle out.  |  IP: Logged Bill Enos Film God Posts: 2081 From: Richmond, Virginia, USA Registered: Apr 2000 posted 09-16-2008 10:18 AM                     Joshua is correct, the split in the pin will catch the edge of the drill bit and stop it and likely break the bit, especially since it is a small bit. The likely reason it won't drive out normally is that it is partly sheared. If so, the only way to get it out is to rotate the two parts held by the pin back into alignment. Then the pin will drive out as it should.  |  IP: Logged

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