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Author Topic: No Tape - Take Down Question Bill Langfield Master Film Handler Posts: 280 From: Prospect, NSW, Australia Registered: Apr 2001 posted 06-18-2009 12:14 PM                        I agree with all the above statements of, Brad, John, Joe, Matt and Monte. Most questions like this should not even need to be asked if Projectionist's were taught correctly in the first place. But do understand these days far too many 'floor' people getting a foot into the projection room/Booth/Bio-Box without enough training, then handing down lack of knowledge to the next usher! JOHN: When and if you read this, I have been forced to retire due health (cancer), do you know the guy I need to contact regarding 'Cinema Pioneers' program? Ron Hart gave me a Name and email address a year ago but I lost it. All the google searches I do come up with basically useless results. PM me here or try the email button thing here, hopefully the update I just did worked. (Took me a week to find my password to get in here!) Email me so I can add you to my address book and we should catch up, before... well we should catch up! B!  |  IP: Logged Bill Enos Film God Posts: 2081 From: Richmond, Virginia, USA Registered: Apr 2000 posted 06-18-2009 12:43 PM                     Here's my take on all this tape bullshit. I work second run and I've NEVER received a used print that had the end of the film stuck in the slot of a core based shipping reel, always taped. This is from studio classics divisions too. The myth of paper tape not leaving residue is just that, a myth. I've found it to leave just as much goo as masking tape after it has been in place for an extended period and it releases on its own nearly as quickly too. In any case a little Film Guard removes whatever is there. The only real residue difference is masking tape adhesive eventually dries out and is extremely difficult to remove where in the same time frame paper tape looses enough adhesion to release but the adhesive is still soft and can be removed with some effort.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 06-18-2009 12:49 PM                     Dang, then we should abolish the use of masking tape and convert in the use of the white Artist's Tape.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 06-18-2009 02:56 PM                        The only thing resembling residue from the artists tape that I use is a bit of "scum" around the area of the tape edges after I peel it off, but it wasn't deposited by the tape itself. It's just that underneath the tape looks bare and the rest of the film has been treated with Filmguard, etc. I only use the tape for labeling prints as well as labeling the head leader. I do NOT use a piece of tape to stick the hanging tail leader to the reel flange or worse... the core of film itself. I hate it when people do that.  |  IP: Logged Matthew Bailey Master Film Handler Posts: 461 From: Port Arthur,TX Registered: Sep 2000 posted 06-18-2009 03:25 PM                     Securing the film around the outside of the shipping reel with a large size rubber band? I use smaller size rubber bands to secure the film when storing trailers in my trailer collection.  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 06-18-2009 05:08 PM                     quote: Bill Langfield I agree with all the above statements of, Brad, John, Joe, Matt and Monte. HOLY SHIT! IT'S BILL! I'll send you an email.  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 06-18-2009 05:56 PM                        I have actually had more problems related to gum left on the film by artists tape than by masking tape. When the artists tape gets warm, there is a tenancy for the adheasive to separate from the base. Of the three projection rooms I've worked in, two of them would get pretty hot in the summer time. When it comes to masking tape, I have found some tape is horrible at leaving adheasive on the film and others leave nothing. The tape I use is a 1" Ace Hardware brand masking tape. I know others have had different experiences, but this is based on my experiences.  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 06-18-2009 06:40 PM                     Bill Your email bounced back..send one to me at Galaxy (click 'mail' above) John  |  IP: Logged Bill Enos Film God Posts: 2081 From: Richmond, Virginia, USA Registered: Apr 2000 posted 06-18-2009 07:10 PM                     You people who aggravate over what kind of tape is used to temporarily secure a previously detached head or tail a worrying about the insignificant, I'm happy as hell when all the heads/tails are present whether attached or not, when they are attached by any means (staples, masking tape, paper tape, or any thing else to the correct reel) I consider it a near miracle. Somebody tell what difference it makes how the end of the film is secured to a core. Cite an authoritative source. Anybody who runs the end of the reel thru will cut that heavily creased/folded end off so they can insert it into the slot of a reel. Sorry guys but film is a disposable, cheap and plentiful media. Take enough care of it to get your use and it is soon back to you as beverage containers, plastic wrap.....  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Althaus Master Film Handler Posts: 435 From: Bedford, TX Registered: Dec 2008 posted 06-18-2009 08:34 PM                     Justin The problem with the 1" tape is I find it a little too wide. When I get used prints with the 1", I find the tape to make more of a mess than a thinner size. I prefer the 0.7" Scotch brand masking tape, although it is a little more difficult to find.  |  IP: Logged Jim Cassedy Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1661 From: San Francisco, CA Registered: Dec 2006 posted 06-18-2009 10:25 PM                     As I think I mentioned once in another post long ago- when I started working as a union projectionist putting tape of ANY kind (even splicing tape) on film was frowned upon. Reels ends were secured with "reel bands". Unfortunately you very rarely see them today, and most booth people don't know how to use them anyway. (Some of them TAPE the of the band to the film which totally ruins it ) And while we're talking about taping down film, beleive it or not, there is a right and a wrong way to do this. I learned this from the old projectionist who taught me this craft. Since then I've spent a lot of time in projection rooms and also a short time as an editor handling many, many little rolls of film,and these two simple "tricks" can make doing both tasks a little easier & save a little time. Here's a demo I've made from an old trailer. I spliced a little camera negative stock on the begining for contrast so that it's easier to see. In this example, the film is wound counter-clockwise. The light colored film is the "body" of the roll. The dark film with the tapered end is the "end" of the roll. What's so great about this? If tape is applied this way, it can be removed in one pull , and using only one hand. If the "X" was facing the other way, it requires two seperate pulls and two hands to remove the tape. You have no idea how much easier this is! If you don't beleive me, get yourself a roll of film & some tape and try doing it both ways. Another advantage is that the little tab makes finding which end to pull easier, and since the tape will also ususally come off in one piece, it can be re-used again to re-tape the film end down when you're through. (The tapered cut film end is for illustrative purposes only)  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-18-2009 11:08 PM                     What Jim just posted above is a HUGE pet peeve of mine. I am in full agreement with him that the above is how films should be taped.  |  IP: Logged Jarret Chessell Master Film Handler Posts: 288 From: London, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jan 2009 posted 06-18-2009 11:39 PM                     I know this will irritate a few people but.... My secret to attaching masking tape to film is to have it on the old splice tape, and not over lapping onto the film. This way the next chap (or myself) can remove any residue from the masking tape when you peel off the splice tape on the frame. This doesn't do much for the head or tail I'll agree. I think I'm going to try to train booth staff into using rubber bands on house trailers in light of a shipment of new trailers. I've had problems with tape residue being sticky enough that it trips the brain wrap sensor, and ultimately wears down the lamp from a restart right after starting up (it's a little embarrassing with an audience too)  |  IP: Logged John Wilson Film God Posts: 5438 From: Sydney, Australia. Registered: Dec 1999 posted 06-18-2009 11:56 PM                     quote: Brad Miller What Jim just posted above is a HUGE pet peeve of mine. Absolutely. I had a guy in the booth working for me a few years ago who simply would not...could not...get it into his head that Jim's way is SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier. Used to drive me batty. He no work here no more. quote: Jarret Chessell I think I'm going to try to train booth staff into using rubber bands on house trailers I use rubber bands on all our trailers too. Just make sure when you're training them that they remember to keep their fingers off the print as much as possible or you'll end up with a nice big greasy thumb print right on your green band.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-18-2009 11:59 PM                     No need for rubber bands if you use the method that has been published right here for years. (The top half is slightly outdated, but scroll about halfway down the page to "WINDING AND STORING TRAILERS".)  |  IP: Logged

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