3D Printed Cores?

[Walt Shires]

I'm not going to pretend this makes any "financial" sense... But I have a printer, I have lots of extra PLA filament that I bought a while back, and I have time so I modeled and printed a few cores. What I wonder is if there is any reason that the PLA plastic would be "bad" to have next to film? I also modeled and printed a new film guide roller because one of the ones I had got broken during storage. I can't imagine much trouble for the film guide... but I do wonder if PLA would be a problem rolled up next to the film for an extended period of time. Anyway... was wondering if anyone had thoughts about this or if maybe it was discussed in the past and I couldn't find it.

[Ed Gordon]

Well, AI raised concerns, but I have never heard from anyone about this being as issue. I have heard of others who print their own small gauge film reels.

PLA plastic is generally considered safe for most 3D printing applications, but there are several reasons why having a PLA 3D printer near film (especially photographic film or motion picture film) could be problematic.

1. Emissions of Particulates and VOCs

• PLA releases nanoparticles and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), primarily lactide, during printing.
  While lactide is less toxic than emissions from ABS, scientific studies indicate that these particles can penetrate deep into the lungs and enter the bloodstream.
• Even though PLA has a sweet smell, this does not mean it's harmless.
  The emitted particles are small enough to be inhaled and may cause respiratory irritation, headaches, or long-term health concerns, especially with prolonged exposure.
• Film is sensitive to environmental contaminants, including airborne particles and chemical vapors.
  These emissions can settle on film surfaces, potentially causing fogging, degradation, or permanent damage over time.

2. Microplastic Contamination

3D printing, including PLA, continuously releases microplastic particles into the air.

• These particles can settle on sensitive materials like film, contributing to long-term contamination.
• Unlike larger debris, microplastics are difficult to clean and can embed into the film’s emulsion layer, leading to image degradation or loss of quality.

3. Heat and Humidity Effects

• PLA has a low glass transition temperature (~55–60°C), meaning it can soften or warp under heat.
  If the printer is in close proximity to film stored in a warm environment, the heat from the printer may affect the film’s stability.
• PLA prints themselves can off-gas moisture if not stored properly, which may contribute to humidity fluctuations that harm film, especially in archival or storage conditions.

4. Risk of Cross-Contamination

• If the printer is used with colored or specialty PLA filaments, pigments or additives may release toxic compounds (e.g., styrene, chloromethyl) during melting.
  These can contaminate the air and potentially damage film.
• Even if the printer is not in use, residual particles and fumes can accumulate in the air and settle on film.

Recommendation

Do not operate a PLA 3D printer in the same room as film storage or sensitive materials.

• If unavoidable, use a fully enclosed printer with HEPA and activated carbon filtration, and keep the printer in a separate, well-ventilated area.
• Always store film in sealed, climate-controlled containers away from any source of heat, dust, or chemical emissions.

Bottom line: While PLA is safer than ABS, it is not risk-free, and its emissions and particulates can negatively affect film quality and longevity.
It's best to keep the printer and film in separate environments.

[Marcel Birgelen]

The AI-mentioned cross-contamination relates to using a 3D printer in the same room as storing the film. You should operate your 3D printer in a well-ventilated room anyway.

The primary concern I'd have is if the PLA going to be abrasive or not. A 3D print, especially a typical FDM print, has the tendency to be pretty rough. I'd sand the 3D print, to reduce potential abrasion of film stock.

[Walt Shires]

Yes - our 3d printer is in another room. And it's the kind with the whole thing inside a box (Bambu PS1) It's a great printer and makes it really easy. The core comes out quite smooth with that printer but I understand what you are saying.

ABS filament can be bought for the printer too - maybe I'll get a few rolls to have on hand next time I order so if the AI is correct... then that might not be an issue. I rolled up some of my SUPER RED Eastman trailers on the ones I printed. One of them is so red you can hardly make out what it is!

For me it's enjoyable to make parts and use them. It's almost like I'm looking for things to make. Right now I'm printing caps to put on the butts of my lenses when they are not in use so they don't get dusty.

[Randy Stankey]

What about SLA/resin printing? Done well, a resin print can come out so smooth you have to use a magnifier to see the build lines.

You could probably fit six or eight cores onto one build plate. In SLA printing, more objects on the plate don't necessarily increase build time. It depends on complexity and layer thickness. The time for the extruder head to trace each layer isn't a factor because a whole layer is exposed at one time.

Since the layer thickness isn't such a deal breaker, you could slice for thicker layers and decrease build time even more. Complete smoothness isn't necessary. You could sand the core smooth if you really want. It should only be leader in contact with film, anyway. Right?

My big question is whether the SLA resin will affect film. I don't think cured resin will be a problem if fully cured, left to ripen for a few days then re-washed, really well. However, if the 3D printer is in the same room with film, the fumes/vapor of the resin could affect film. Since you've already put the printer in its own room, that shouldn't be a problem.

If ABS-like resin is used vs. standard resin, it shouldn't be a problem with film as long as the core is cured, ripened and washed.

[Ryan Gallagher]

I think cores is pretty approachable (though maybe not economical) if choosing the right filament and method. Depends on if archival is your standard or not perhaps.

Rollers I would be a little more suspect about unless you are only running stuff you don't care about.

Did someone decide to get a platter? I can't see another use for that particular roller unless it is just a loop guide? Though there probably are some.

[Walt Shires]

No platter - and yes, I was trying to stabilize a loop. I only have a few feet of dolby tone left! I can't afford for it to chew up anymore!