Wall aisle lighting / Wall Sconces

[Darin Steffl]

What brands do you recommend for wall aisle lighting and wall sconces? We're looking at Tempo and got a quote back but they're VERY proud of their product based on the quote.

We're looking to light up our side aisles with wall LED lighting shining down and also wall sconces to light the auditorium.

[Frank Cox]

Be aware that not all automatic light dimmer switches work with led's. I think there are ways to make some/most of them work with led's but it's more than just screwing the new bulbs into the sockets.

Past that I'll have to let someone more knowledgable than me tell you the details. I stocked up on a couple of dozen incandescent floodlight bulbs a few years ago and hope to avoid the issue entirely with my Kelmar dimmer.

[John Eickhof]

personally i recommend the kelmar dimmers they are compatible with most led lamps and are very dependable if you already have them, kelmar makes a kit for your existing incandescent dimmers or led use, ck with your supply dealer

[Darin Steffl]

We for a new Kelmar dimmer a couple years ago so we should be good there.

[Steve Guttag]

the Kelmar dimmers are no more reliable with LED lamps than any other dimmer. That is, they are no better or worse than any other "chopper" (PWM) type dimmer. It all depends on the LED lamp that you connect to them and getting a good match (there can be leading edge, trailing edge and I believe even one more type, just to make it more complicated. And even if you get the leading/trailing edge, how that LED lamp will perform as you go below 20% is a crap-shoot. If you DO find a lamp that dims to zero without fuss, buy plenty from the same batch, including spares. The same make/model lamp on the next purchase may NOT perform the same. LED lamp manufacturers do not plan on dimming to zero...that is not how they are mostly used. Most are used where they are set to some level of on...and if they are to be off, they are turned off via switch.

As for Tempo, their system does work in a dim to zero environment, when using the specified LED driver and can be done in a 0-10V fashion as well as traditional dimmer out.

For those using conventional looking lamps (e.g A19 and PAR38), we are recommending Eprad's LED dimming system (not just the dimmer). They have done a holistic approach of using their own DC lamps and dimmer module. As such, it "just works," Conventional wiring can be used so retrofitting existing systems does not require rewiring the light fixtures unless there are too many fixtures on a string (it is DC so there is a limit as to how far a string may go on a given gauge wire).

With the Eprad system, you get more of a dimming range too (most LED lamps on conventional dimmers really compress the range down into perhaps 20%). The Eprad dimmer is able to be set in 1% increments.

For those with existing conventional dimmers (e.g. Kelmar), Eprad does make their LED module in a stand alone case...so the existing dimmer feeds that module which, in turn, feeds the Eprad lamps. So, all that needs to be done to install it is to splice the LED module between the load side of the dimmer and the LED module and then the LED module feeds the lights. One does have to change all of the lights as it is low-voltage DC out and it cannot drive incandescent lamps.

A downside to the Eprad system is that they only have the two style lamps so if you want something else (e.g. string lights), it won't work with that. Screen Shot 2023-02-26 at 10.37.47 AM.png Screen Shot 2023-02-26 at 10.38.13 AM.png Screen Shot 2023-02-26 at 10.38.00 AM.png Screen Shot 2023-02-26 at 10.38.26 AM.png

[Mark Gulbrandsen]

The aside from reliability, the other good thing about Kelmar is the support they will give you. Tom can supply you with a list of tested lamps that do work reliably. This way you can go lamp shopping and be ten steps ahead on that aspect of the job. I've never had any of the other dimmer manufacturers offer that. Most of the cinema dimmers out there are very reliable... I've had almost zero problems with anyone's dimmer system, with the exception of big dimming systems in live theaters. But even for those you can retrofit new rack computers that are made up north above the border in the freezing cold...

[Jesse Crooks]

With regard to wall aisle lighting and sconces, just NO. Don't install anything on the walls that you plan to keep running during the feature. It will create light pollution that ruins your on-screen contrast with indirect light, and distracts the viewer with the direct light. In my most recent install the architect had them put in wall strip lights despite my objection, and after spending thousands of dollars on that trash I leave them off at all times. I turned them on exactly one time, during a rental for the special needs program for the local school district.

As for general purpose dimmers, I am very happy with the Eprad dimmer Steve mentions above. It works flawlessly. It's what I would go with for any new installs or upgrades (since it can use existing high voltage wiring). Our Kelmar dimmers have been rock solid when running incandescent bulbs (I've replaced one board ever, and otherwise had zero issues) but we've had no luck adapting them to LED use.

[Randy Stankey]

With regard to wall aisle lighting and sconces, just NO.

Generally speaking, yes but the auditorium at Mercyhurst was a special case. It had a very high ceiling, over 50 feet to the steel, with an architectural grid instead of a drop ceiling. There were six private boxes down the sides of the room, each on their own cantilevered, little balcony. With the lights completely off, the whole space above just disappeared into a black hole. Maybe it looked nice but, from a practical perspective, it became difficult to navigate without bumping into the walls or, God forbid, going over a balcony rail. (Which is a secondary reason why we never used the balcony or the boxes during movies.)

There were also crystal chandeliers which were copies of the ones at the Metropolitan Opera House. I never cared for them but, hey! This is America! Right? Anyhow, I set the dimmers so that the filaments in these lights were just aglow.

The boss liked it because, that way, people could see the expensive chandeliers that somebody donated money to buy. I did it because they defined the room, making it easier to navigate.

If person sitting in the dark, looking at a bright screen, gets up to leave in the middle of the show, presumably to go to the restroom or something, they might be temporarily blind for a few seconds until their vision starts to adjust. Having those chandeliers with their lights just bright enough to see them but not so bright that they cast any light on their surroundings helps to define the borders of the room, making it easier to move around.

It's very subtle but it's one of those things that is more noticeable when when it's gone.

So, yes. Generally, I agree with you but, if your auditorium is so dark that people can't see to move around, having a very dim, just perceptible light on the wall might help people get around without bumping into things.