Barco ICMP-X faceplate screw gotcha

[Leo Enticknap]

Just installed a new one. The faceplate screws are now T10 Torx heads, not the small Philips heads found on all other Barco Series 2 faceplate screws.

Presumably they are now extending their all-Torx policy from Series 4 to replacement parts for earlier projectors.

[Steve Guttag]

Oddly, the card cage of the S4 was the only non-torx screws. And, to make things more frustrating, Dolby has decided to use slotted screws on the IMS3000s.

[Frank Cox]

So they're... ahem.. screwing around.

I'll get my hat....

[Leo Enticknap]

Oddly, the card cage of the S4 was the only non-torx screws.

The laser driver module cages have smallish Allen heads (2.5mm maybe - can't remember), and the Scheimpflug adjusters take 8mm Allen for the locking nut and a 5mm Allen for the actual adjuster. Those are the only other non-Torx fasteners I've found in S4s.

I'm guessing that the LDM cages are a legacy thing, because the same part is used in -BLP and -CLP projectors.

[Steve Guttag]

I don't count the Scheimpflug because they are adjusters, not used so much as fasteners (yes, they are fasteners but you know what I mean...you don't remove them to remove because you are changing a lens or something, like a cover or a board).

[Leo Enticknap]

I count them, because they affect the set of tools I need to carry around with me. The fact that they are never totally removed doesn't mean that I don't need the ability to loosen and tighten them. In the S4 training school, the instructor proudly announced at the start of the first lecture that T10, T15, and T20 drivers are all we need to strip and rebuild an SP4K or 2K projector (in a hark back to Cinemeccanica's proud boast that the Vic 5 can be stripped and rebuilt using nothing more than a set of metric Allen wrenches). A few months in the field quickly taught me that those are not all, because of:

• Scheimpflug adjusters - need long (as in, longer than the longest lens you're likely to encounter) 8mm and 5mm T-handle Allens
• Card cage faceplates - need small Philips and flathead (and now T10)
• Laser driver module cages - need 2.5mm Allen
• Light engine swapout - need 12" or longer T20

If anyone has encountered any others, please feel free to add to the list.

[Steve Guttag]

The T20 handles the covers and most of the internal stuff holding boards in.

For the Scheimpflug, I went with an offset ratchet and suitable hex keys (as shown in class). That negates the need of worrying about what lens one is using too.

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