Barco Coolant

[Marcial Feliciano Ramos]

Hi,

With all the issues because of COVID, all shipments are arriving late. Is there something similar we can use for coolant until we receive our order? We have a handful of projectors low on coolant. Thanks

[Phil Ranucci]

How low?
In service class we were told distilled water was OK to top up the tank.
FYI, I just replaced a light engine due to clogging, so get those pumps running to avoid ugly surprises.

[Gordon McLeod]

The issue is that Barco coolant in glycol and water only
With out a inhibitor glycol will attack alumium and form crystals that clog the system

[Leo Enticknap]

So called "Asian blue" automotive coolant will likely be OK as a short-term workaround. It has the inhibitors in it that cheaper stuff doesn't. When I've found reservoirs seriously low, I've used the ready mixed stuff that Honda dealerships sell until I can get back to the site with some genuine Barco stuff, and have never had any problem.

Agreed with Phil about clogging. I've had take the hoses off and replumb numerous older Barco light engines, most of them Series 1, because coagulated coolant had clogged the barb couplings on the DMD heatsinks and caused overheating.

If you have a Barco projector that has been out of action for several months, it might be worth running it in refill mode for a while after powering up again for the first time, to check that the coolant flow is all good.

[Dave Pierson]

Question for Leo... How does running in refill mode work? what will that tell you? How will I know if the coolant flow is all good by doing this?

Thanks!

[Dave Macaulay]

Refill mode is used after refilling the coolant, to circulate the coolant and push air bubbles into the reservoir. (Series 1 is a bit different but the same idea, with an external reservoir (the coolant bottle) used in the bubble elimination).
The entire cooling system runs but with the lamp off. It does cycle on and off though.
On either a B or C projector (or other models with a coolant reservoir) you should see definite turbulence in the reservoir with the pump running. For B it's easy to see, with side cover off take the reservoir cap off and look in if you can't see the level rocking around through the little slit. C is harder. It's really hard to see the fluid through the tiny window (under side cover) in refill mode, with lamp on you can see the level and the sloshing. The top cover has to come off to open the lid.
If the system is clogged up you won't see turbulence and there may even be zero flow.
For emergency fluid, distilled water is OK. As long as you don't have it in freezing temperature of course.
Christie and Barco coolants are effectively identical. Christie's is cheaper (last time I checked) and comes by the gallon. Both are 1/3 ethylene glycol, 2/3 deionized water, plus a drop of blue colouring.
I think any commercial car coolant mied 1/3 - 2/3 with distilled water will be fine and maybe better due to the corrosion inhibitors.
Don't use oddball coolants on a projector under warranty, of course.

[Marcel Birgelen]

Rule #1: Never ever combine the orange stuff with the blue stuff!

[Leo Enticknap]

Agreed completely with both Dave and Marcel.

Just one thing to add: not only will there be no flow if the system is clogged, but also if you've just replaced the coolant and/or pump, and the pump isn't primed properly. So if, after starting refill mode, you don't see agitation in the tank within 2-3 seconds, turn it off immediately to prevent pump damage. Check for any errors (e.g. hoses reconnected the wrong way round), and then force some more fluid into the system using the special cap and bicycle pump that comes with the Barco refill kit.

Anecdotally, I almost never have to do this with B series projectors, but almost always have to give C series ones a second pump. Must be something to do with the internal pressures within the circuit, I guess.

[Steve Guttag]

If you actually put the cap on with the air valve and pump (to force the coolant through the pump, then it will be primed.

I recommend that if you have to top off the coolant between changes, top off with just distilled water. It isn't the glycol that evaporated, it's the water. You don't want to thicken the solution. The same goes for Christie.

Leo, didn't you say you were using clear/braided tubing (e.g. syrup lines) instead of rubber when you change the hoses?

[Leo Enticknap]

UV resistant; yes (if the machine is out of warranty; if it is covered by a warranty, then hoses that they supply). Enables you to see immediately if there are any bubbles in the system.

If you actually put the cap on with the air valve and pump (to force the coolant through the pump, then it will be primed.

Which I do, but more often than not I find that I have to do that a second time with C series projectors, running the pump for 2-3 seconds between (bicycle) pumps. Almost never with Bs.

[Steve Guttag]

I'll admit, I don't (pump up the system...just on S1s to verify no leaks). Now Neal, the owner of Cardinal, does it best. He uses a siphon to extract the coolant and then uses the siphon to draw it in...so things are well primed as it is completely removed and replaced...no residual.