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This topic comprises 7 pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Author
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Topic: Proper/Improper use of FilmGuard
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Carl Martin
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1424
From: Oakland, CA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 04-10-2011 05:16 AM
a quick update, with some shitty digi-pix.
i'm fairly certain the payout issues at the next theater were due to dissolved tape residue permeating the pads and getting on the prints (possibly compounded by platter timing issues). one mistake i made was re-using the bits of masking tape on the outside of the f-t media rolls. (any reason these aren't secured with the presumably safe blue tape used to hold the other end of the media to the cores?)
last i heard, the 2 most recent prints received from us were behaving nicely in their new home, though i had only f-g'd them a few days each (using magic tape only) before being told to stop so it's not a great basis for drawing conclusions.
anyways, i've now got a tapeless system for holding media to cores. no, there wasn't, as far as i'm aware, any issue using magic tape. this is just tidier and less hassle, and if the media get rewound too far it's simple to re-secure them. with a razor blade, i scored the cores lengthwise, holding the blade at a bit of an angle to create a grip. it grabs wet or dry media very nicely. time will tell if the grip lessens after many uses.
the mounting holes on the aw3 platter seem to be some sort of insert, not just tapped holes. so i'll have to see if these are available somehow for mounting in the return path. but meanwhile, i jury-rigged a cleaner on the floor after the projector. the transformer is just there for ballast.
i ran the week's first f-g application this way, and moved the cleaner to the normal feed-side position for the second show, during which only the slightest streaking was evident, and only when the screen was practically all-white. so i'm pretty satisfied with that.
incidentally, it seems i had been overthinking the saturation procedure all along. i had been carefully going all around the media roll with the spritzer. i wondered how anyone could do this while it was on the cleaner. turns out you can just spritz repeatedly without repositioning the spray nozzle, and the f-g will spread around the roll, with better results, to boot. who knew? oh, yeah, all of you guys.
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-10-2011 09:41 AM
First, "Horay for Yankee Ingenuity!"
However, you really need to mount that film cleaner on the platter and clean up the floor around your projector. Rigging things up like that is probably doing more harm than good.
As a test, it's probably fine but, for long-term, you are going to need to do it right.
Second, you don't need tape to hold the saturated media onto the film cleaner shafts.
Cut an empty film core in half, across the diameter so you have a piece of plastic shaped like a letter "C." Use this plastic like a clip to hold the media onto the shaft. You won't need tape. You'll avoid the problem of dissolved stickum and you'll lower your consumption of tape.
Put a full, saturated roll onto the payout shaft, thread it through the cleaner and use the clip to hold it onto the takeup shaft. After each run of film, rewind the cleaner. On an average length movie, you will only use half the roll. The other half will be unused and still saturated on the payout.
When the first half of the roll becomes too dirty to use, simply take a knife or a pair of scissors and cut the media at the end of the dirty part (before you rewind it) and pull it off the cleaner. Then, take the head end of the clean part of the roll and clip it back onto the takeup shaft.
Just be sure you have enough saturated media on the payout roll to cover the print that you are running through the cleaner. You don't want to run out of gauze half way through a movie!
Done this way, you use less FilmGuard, you use less media and you do less work. -- The ergophobe's guide to using FilmGuard!
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