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This topic comprises 7 pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Author
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Topic: Getting New Amplifiers
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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-12-2012 10:45 PM
Tim, you're not really hijacking this thread because your story is similar to mine.
We've both got asshole bosses who hire dipshit technicians then leave the mess for us to clean up.
The CP650 processor and the DCA amps really are as good as it gets but you MUST install and calibrate the equipment correctly or else it will sound like shit. No two ways about it.
Do you use Dolby Digital and/or DTS? Do you use analog, optical sound?
First and foremost, get the equipment hooked up correctly.
Next, do an A-chain calibration. First in the projector then work back to the processor. The mechanical adjustment is critical to getting it right. There's no amount of adjustment that can be done at the processor to compensate an F-ed up sound reader. When that's done, go to the processor and tweak that up the way it's supposed to be. Done correctly, it's basically one continuous process. If your equipment is otherwise in good working order an A-chain should take you 15 minutes from start to finish. After that, touch-ups should take only a few minutes.
Next, get your digital readers working the way they should be. Use an oscilloscope. The DRAS software was meant to be used as an adjunct to the scope, not to be used in place of a scope.
After that, set your digital/analog frame offsets. Get it so you can't tell the difference in the lip sync when you switch between analog and digital.
Finally, calibrate your B-chain. Set your sound levels, calibrate the processor's RTA to the microphone input. Then do your house EQ.
If you do this all correctly, an untrained ear would not be able to tell the difference between analog and digital sound. You should be able to switch back and forth between formats and nobody in the audience will notice. Even a trained ear would have to listen carefully to tell the difference between analog and digital sound.
I don't know how to advise you on getting your bosses to do the right thing. I have actually had shouting matches with my boss, stamping my feet, pounding my fists on the desk and he still refused to listen. Luckily he's not the boss anymore but the ones who run the place now have gone from idiot to ignorant. I don't know which is worse.
I don't know your skill level as a technician. I can't advise you to do the work yourself. Regardless, I think you should still study up and learn how to do A-chains and B-chains. If for no other reason than to help you know if any tech your boss does hire is doing the job correctly.
It's bosses like ours who make guys like us go on rampages and shoot up our workplaces!
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 02-14-2012 04:51 PM
On the Reverse Anamorphic thing...that one I make no apologies on...the "advice" was flat out wrong.
A beef I have with some is when they offer "advice" on things they really do not know anything about or feel the need to empty their entire knowledge base on a post in the hopes that some of it, accurate or not, may help.
Reverse anamorphics suffer from uneven light and barrel distortion. They have but one purpose, to get very long EFs where the lenses designed for normal anamorphics fail. That is, in a 70.6mm OD lens, anything over 140mm will be slower (less light efficient). In the example Scott provided (150mm versus a 75w/reverse), the light loss would be negligible on the 150mm compared to the image distortion and lack of uniform light that the reverse would bring. The posters prior to me seemed to miss all of that. There is no way they have ever run target film or measured the light to come up with their "advice." I think Louis' post pretty much summed it up too.
The most popular users of reverse anamorphics is going to be Drive-Ins were the benefits will often overcome the downsides (they almost always need a VERY long lens)...once upon a time there were 101.6 dia lenses (4") to get f/1.7 out of them primarily for Drive-Ins. The Old Kollmorgen-Kaska KA299 anamorphic (4") was indeed a reverse, primarily but could be used as a forward (had threads on both ends)...again for Drive-Ins. But this example was just a 150mm...not exactly pushing the envelope of anything.
If my slamming discouraged the sort of posts I saw...good. Those sort of posts, in my opinion, don't help, they mislead. I don't do it that often but if one posts something that just blatantly wrong, I have no problem calling them on it. on things they really do not know anything about or feel the need to empty their entire knowledge base on a post in the hopes that some of it, accurate or not, may help.
Reverse anamorphics suffer from uneven light and barrel distortion. They have but one purpose, to get very long EFs where the lenses designed for normal anamorphics fail. That is, in a 70.6mm OD lens, anything over 140mm will be slower (less light efficient). In the example Scott provided (150mm versus a 75w/reverse), the light loss would be negligible on the 150mm compared to the image distortion and lack of uniform light that the reverse would bring. The posters prior to me seemed to miss all of that. There is no way they have ever run target film or measured the light to come up with their
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