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This topic comprises 4 pages: 1 2 3 4
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Author
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Topic: Paranormal Activity blowing out Center Speakers
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Harold Hallikainen
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 906
From: Denver, CO, USA
Registered: Aug 2009
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posted 01-05-2014 02:19 PM
"I guess very few systems are - on paper - capable of coping with a 0dB FS soundtrack when the sound processor is set to 7.0, and you always need to prove that your system is properly calibrated."
"I have the feeling that it would be quite tough to prove that the speaker has failed because of something wrong on the soundtrack. Studios can easily say "the speaker wouldn't have failed if your speaker had been properly spec'ed for the size of the room". "
If one speaker can do 85dB with -20dBFS (-23rms), and we gain 3dB every time we double the power put into the room by doubling the number of speakers at this level, we get 85 (C) +3 (doubling by adding L), +3 (doubling from 2 to 4 by adding R, Ls+Rs at 82 each) for a total of 91 for a 5.1 system with all speakers except LFE driven at -20dBFS. Add 20dB for FS and we have 111dB in the room. That's loud!
Headroom is for transient signals above nominal, not for continuous signals above nominal. It seems that mechanical failures in speakers could be due to instantaneous amplitude, while electrical failure would be due to longer term signals, depending on power dissipated, heat capacity, heat dissipation (convection, conduction, etc.), and temperature limits of materials. Recent amplifier designs have speaker protection circuits. Are these adequate for the job?
Harold
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 01-05-2014 03:51 PM
I can say that "we" design sound systems that are capable of playing 0dBFS from any/all speakers with the fader set to 7.0 (or 0dB for those people)...I think it is incompetent to not design a system that is capable of playing the program material.
Part of the confusion is what is perpetrated by the speaker companies in the quest for sales and for exhibitors that have the "Ghostbusters" mentality. That is..."We are ready to believe you."
Speaker companies rate their drivers in either continuos ("AES"), program or peak values. Where program is double pink noise, and peak is double program. While it is true that typical signals are not well represented by pink noise or a continuous signal, subwoofer IS best represented by continuous pink noise (band limited to the pass band of the system).
Another thing that will zap the inexperienced are passive crossovers. First, most suck nowadays...they do the minimum, it would seem, to have the various sections play the frequencies that they are supposed to play but very little matching seems to be going on. Also, with passive crossovers, any distortion is going to likely take its vengeance out on the higher frequency drivers because that is where the distortion is going to end up and the passive crossover is all to happy to send it that way.
When one looks at the response of a speaker...if you have a speaker that needs a lot of inherent EQ, particularly boost...that boost is on TOP of the normal power going to the driver. If you boost 1.3KHz by 3dB to make things look flat on the analyzer...well you just doubled the power going to that driver at that frequency. If the crossover isn't well matched you are going to be doing a lot more EQing...that all comes off of power handling.
In short, don't cheap out on speakers and if you are going to buy a 3-way or 4-way system, tri or quad amp it...you WILL get better results. In cinema, a speaker that requires little EQ to be flat in response is going to be a better choice than a cheap speaker that needs a lot of electrical help to play all of the frequencies equally. A 3 (or 4) way speaker is NOT necessarily a better speaker than a 2-way. A good 2-way beats a mediocre 3-way EVERY TIME. If you can't afford a good 3-way or 4-way, buy a good 2-way for less. You'll get more speaker for your money and have fewer problems. Get the crossover right too. Make sure that the crossover point is correct, the slopes are correct and any time delay actually matches the actual speaker. Balance each section properly. "Out of the box" crossover settings rarely work as well as you would hope.
105dBc, the required level from all channels except Subwoofer...which has to be able to hit 115dBc, takes more power than you think. If you were running optical sound (SR) before DCinema, you need about 10dB more power than you used to. If you were running Dolby digital before, you need 2dB more...and with each 3dB meaning TWICE as much POWER...this all adds up fast.
When looking at speaker sensitivity...watch out...the proper rating is the decibel level measured with 1-watt at 1-meter. Some will cheat this and use a voltage rating like 2.83V...do the math and get it into watts.
If one downloads the Dolby Technical Manual here on Film-Tech...you can skip the math, for the most part...since it was for Dolby Digital, it is 2dB light for today's needs and it is 5dB light on the subwoofer spec. Look up the pages with the nomographs where one can see sensitivity, compare it to room length and then see what the required power is.
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