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This topic comprises 4 pages: 1 2 3 4
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Author
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Topic: Barco DP2K Lamp not striking
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Antti Nayha
Master Film Handler
Posts: 268
From: Helsinki, Finland
Registered: Oct 2008
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posted 05-20-2014 09:57 AM
Here's an earlier thread about this.
quote: Paul Maxon I have one that is starting to miss strikes now, but is stable once lit. But it is the 3D house so the lamp power is changed when the format is changed, so that could have something to do with it.
I've had the dreaded Barco strike problem with several Ushio lamps, and this was in a house where we used to run 2D flat at minimum power and 3D at maximum power. I think it's pretty much accepted knowledge that going back and forth between the extremes is not exactly good for any xenon lamp... And as Pete suggested in the previous thread, particularly running at minimum power may cause strike failures in the long run.
Even when you're only using CLO to even out the difference between 2D flat and 2d scope on a common height screen, the power difference is quite substantial - let alone between 2D and 3D. Since I've found no way to restrict the CLO minimum and maximum power to something more conservative than Barco's presets, I've started to rely less on CLO and more on manual power settings.
For example, the aforementioned house uses an Ushio DXL-30BAF/L, which Barco's CLO happily runs at 1800-3000 W. I've now disabled CLO and set it up manually to always run 2D flat at 2000 W and 2D scope at 2800 W. Both 3D formats are also now being run at 2800 W.
The projectionists then focus the bulb z-axis manually to get maximum light output for 3D shows, and defocus it down to 14-16 fL for 2D. (The light uniformity is pretty good despite defocusing, although of course it would be nicer to have another lamphouse for 3D...)
This way, the lamp is never fed either extreme minimum or extreme maximum power. And although I lose about 0.3-0.4 fL in 3D (measured through glasses) because I run the lamp at 2800 instead of full 3000 watts, I guess this is evened out towards the end of bulb life, since avoiding maximum power makes it lose its brightness a bit slower.
So far so good, although it's a bit early to tell. Would be interesting to know if any of you guys with dozens of screens have tried something similar to combat strike problems.
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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004
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posted 05-21-2014 11:33 PM
quote: Antti Nayha The projectionists then focus the bulb z-axis manually to get maximum light output for 3D shows, and defocus it down to 14-16 fL for 2D. (The light uniformity is pretty good despite defocusing, although of course it would be nicer to have another lamphouse for 3D...)
I like this phrase if held true if projectionists are still in hire. But, with locations run by "suits" and floor staff, can one see any member of the above personnel perform these above techniques on a regular basis?
Thus, for this "new system of operation" we have nowdays, what would be the simplest "KISS" method to use to have the most effective usage with these BARCOS (since I have 15 of them and no booths to speak of.. ?)
EDIT: On this same topic of bulbs in general with these BARCOS: We all know that a xenon bulb works the best when in operation at 80% of it's rated wattage, then gradually work upwards when age gets on bulbs.
Now, in the CLO mode, the light sensor file has been set at a certain foot lamberts so the bulb ramps up automatically when age is gaining on the bulb itself. Yet, with some FL readings, that the bulb is operating way below the 80% run (e.g. a DXL-30BAF/L is only operating just about 2200 watts with a 14fl setting in the sensor file) making me wonder if I'm actually killing the bulbs running this low of wattage where I wish I was using 20BAF/L bulbs, but have too big of screens for this smaller bulb.
..or, am I just worrying about nothing and these bulbs can handle this lower wattage and still be effective throughout its warranty life.
-thx Monte
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This topic comprises 4 pages: 1 2 3 4
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