Which, combined with the light engine temperature readings reported yesterday, adds evidence to support the theory that some light engine power, Peltier cooler, and/or sensor connections (top right of the backplane) were accidentally put back in the wrong places on the backplane.
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i cleaned the salt with brush, then wd40, and contact cleaner on the slot area
before changing the backplane, i took pictures of all the connections, and the ones not marked or that could be put wrong, i changed from one backplane to the other, one by one, to make sure no plug is wrong.
in the end, we tested the cinema controller on the good projector, and the erros showed up there too. so we believe the cinema controller is toasted.
now is waiting for the server and new cinema controller to arrive, and hope nothing else is bad
Until then, thank you guys, your help is invaluable. you guys helped me before, and i really appreciated!Comment
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Good luck then! I hope you manage to get it fully working.
One more tip on my end: I wouldn't use WD40 on electronics. It was never designed for that. To be fair, WD40 is not good at anything, maybe as a generic cleaner for mechanical stuff.
I would use a specialised contact cleaner (which one did you use) and in particular one that leaves some protection behind (a light layer of lubrication). De-Oxit D5 is an example but you might have something similar in Brazil at a lower price.
Just be careful: my Kontact S10 is as good as De-Oxit (IMHO) but I believe the datasheet clearly says not to use it on very low voltage signals.
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I have a few customers dotted around the coast of Scotland, so have some experience with Barco C series in salty air.
A favourite problem, the fuse holder in the IEC outlet by the main switch. It loves to corrode, and that leads to high resistance/interrupted or low mains voltage to the SMPS. That in turn leads to random reboots/failed boots/general illogical behaviour.
It's worth every service, pop the fuse holder out, clean it with De-Oxit or similar.
I do the same with all the cards and connections every service. Including the SMPS.
I've found that this action has pretty much made the Barcos in those sites as reliable as those elsewhere. Despite the aluminium chasiss parts looking decidedly white and powdery!Comment
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Im back! after changing SMPS, ICP from old 19B, new media server (gdc sr-1000), it started to give low temps on a bunch of sensors, so we changed the fan controller from the other screen, and most of it worked!
then... red stripes on screen...
red formatter board was toasted. we got a new one, found a guy to do a deep cleaning (and have spare parts, entire day disassembling and reassembling) cleaning the light path, contact cleaner, isopropanol, varnish for electronics to extend the life of this projector...
EVERYTHIG IS WORKING NOW!!!!
yay!
thanks again guys, your help was fundamental.
now just need to do a bunch of automation again and i guess we can open the screen in a day or two.
Last edited by Marlon Martins; 09-11-2026, 09:36 PM.Comment
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extra: The guys who send the keys are requesting a certificate (.pem) for this server (gdc sr-1000) to be able to release keys. where i can get those? it's a generic for this model or specific to each server?Last edited by Marlon Martins; 09-12-2026, 08:26 AM.Comment
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I'm not sure I'd like to see that poor projector!
certs are specific for each server, I am not a GDC person so I do not know where you can find them. That said, if the "guys" are pros, they should have access to public places where all the .pem files are kept. All they'll need is the serial number of your server.
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yeah, it's not something i would like, but is needed. he works with a lot of projectors near beaches, and the problems are the same. 6 months to 2 years, they start to have defective boards due to salt.
this is the third projector here that had a defective formatter, the red is the closest to the fan, is the first to die.
Last edited by Marlon Martins; 09-12-2026, 12:03 PM.Comment
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De-humidifier? In a situation like that I would probably keep circulating the air instead of constantly replacing it with new one. If the cinema is small and can't afford a proper HVAC system, a simple "split" air conditioner unit (powerful enough, Barco has BTU specs on their datasheet) and the projector exhaust in the room. I am not sure the Oxone thing is real, I thought Oxone was being generated momentarily when the lamp strikes, not all the time.
That would keep out the salts and the dust. And it would work for your projector, your computer, your monitor etc.Comment
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"extra: The guys who send the keys are requesting a certificate (.pem) for this server (gdc sr-1000) to be able to release keys. where i can get those? it's a generic for this model or specific to each server?"
This is for encrypted content. The PEM file is your server's public key. The distributor uses a private key to encrypt the movie data and then send a KDM to you that allows your server to decrypt it. For a limited time of course.
That PEM is unique to your server.
With the server manufacturer, model, and eSN (electronic serial number) distributors can get the file them selves.
An independent producer making their own DCPs in house may not have that ability and need you to send the file but that's not common.
If you are dealing with a major distributor, the model and eSN should be all they need.
I don't deal with a lot of GDC servers, there may be a way to export it hat I don't know, but I think you can email them - cert@gdc-tech.com or maybe certs@gdc-tech.com. Include the model and eSN.Comment
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When I've asked GDC for certs on behalf of customers in the past, they've also wanted to know the location (physical address) of the server, and a contact name and phone number. On one occasion they asked me for more info when the address and contact I gave them did not match what was in their records. The SX-3000 in question was in a projector that that we bought back from the owner when they upgraded to laser, refurbished, and sold on to another theater. GDC wanted dates and details about that, too.Comment
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we had dehumidifiers, the first ones died due to... corrosion. second ones, died of... corrosion. now they use AC in dehumidifier mode to help a bit.
"the guys" asked gdc tech for the certificate, still waiting
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OT - An AC in "dehumidifier mode" is more or less useless. It cools down the coils (cool mode) to condense the moisture in the air but stops almost immediately to not lower the temperature too much.
A proper de-humidifier has condenser AND evaporator (hot and cold) coils in one box. By blowing ambient air on the cold coil first, moisture condense and gets removed. The air cools down as a consequence but it then gets fed to the hot coil so you end up with air at the same temperature it came in - in fact a bit higher because the process is not 100% efficient of course.
If you are in Brazil and it's hot, keep the AC in cool mode and it will automatically de-humidify because of the laws of physics! (Humid air going through a cold object)
But I wouldn't discard what I said earlier on: if you don't let air in (or not so much), you don't let salts in either.
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