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This topic comprises 5 pages: 1 2 3 4 5
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Author
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Topic: Strong Platter Slowdown and Stop
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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-06-2002 08:57 PM
I think Joe is working tonight, so I'll answer for him.Shaun, Joe is running Simplex XLs. They have a pretty good ramp down, but apparently not enough. Richard, Joe's projectors do not have flywheels. He can only use the motor switch. It's a weird situation indeed. Regarding Strong, a minor re-design of the platter would not increase it's cost. To hell with quality anyway, right? Cheap, cheap, cheap is always the better decision. Joe, I really think your best bet is to hit the manual motor switch, then at a predetermined point on the leader press START and release the manual motor switch. That way you don't have the first trailer exposed out of the film roll, you don't have to worry about the first trailer getting abraded while the Strong platter tries to get up to speed and you still maintain the benefit of a decent length of leader.
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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-06-2002 09:50 PM
Even after motoring to the "start point" I have made sure that there is enough full coat leader to go all the way back to the platter and into the roll. I think the "rolling start" is a decent temporary solution, but I'd really like the larger rings. Anyone know what the price range for one is? They CANNOT be $500. Or even $250. It's not they they are super complex precision machined devices. Also, I have enough full coat leader attached after my frameline leader that threading up to the precise frame is irrelevant.My projectors have a slightly "longer than normal" ramp down speed I'd say. They stop a bit slower than most projectors that I have worked with. But when the leader is motoring and the Strong motors sucking at full force due to the wimpy rings and I suddenly switch the motor off, the Strong motors simply have too much torque to stop fast enough. Never a problem with Christie platter motors. If Strong would be willing to swap the 13 inch rings for 19 inch ones, I would be an extremely happy camper! Also, if Strong has any other solutions they want to try, I would certainly be happy to field test for them.
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-06-2002 10:48 PM
Joe, I hope you are allowing the projector motor to come up to full speed and for the platter to find its null before you shut the motor down. If the platter is still "hunting" when you shut the projector motor down, most anything that is undesirable can and probably will happen. They are not very stable machines on start-up. Some of them will scare the crap out of a newbie when they see those things "take off" on startup.  Mine handle the ramp-down just fine, even at the very beginning. From time to time some doofus forgets to remove the DTS Logo on the movie that is moved to another house, and if I catch it, I'll motor it off manually. The platters stabilize nicely in that period of time, and the ramp down causes absolutely no problem.
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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-07-2002 01:05 AM
I agree with all but one of your points Gordon, especially the wear and tear on the equipment. However dirt WILL be attracted to where the film was handled. This is a fact of life and there is no "being careful" that will get anyone around it. That would be like saying that it is ok to store videotapes on top of a large subwoofer so long as the person doing it is careful. Bullshit.Another way to look at it...if the equipment you are installing cannot handle being turned on and off, why don't you just remove the manual motor switch? Also, what is that saying for the equipment's reliability factor? Of course any projector will last longer if it is not abused by turning the motor on and off, but what machine cannot make it through it's warranty period if someone motors down the leader on each show for the year or two warranty period? Of course Joe doesn't even have the capability to manually turn the projector over by hand, so he has to do a running start, thread on the cue frame or motor the leader down. This is also why automations without a start cue are a foolish design that does not take into account respect to the film...and that cost excuse be damned here, it wouldn't jack up the price of an automation enough to matter for such a feature to be implemented.
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 10-07-2002 07:43 AM
Gordon, I completely disagree with you on this one...I AWLAYS and I mean ALWAYS motor down whenever possible. That is, even at the Uptown, I've always added extra scrap film (typically I "recycle" old trailers into thread up leaders...they have frame lines and all)...you thread up on that part and then motor down to the countdown. It is one extra start for the motor and results and in no dirt or other crappy presentations due to handling the film so near the first frame. Same with platters...I always thread up way early on the leader and motor down to the countdown area...In fact I require it...if you make a mistake on your threading...better to tear up a section of cheap leader than ANY part of the actual print, including it's leader.In my 20+ years of showing films...I've yet to loose a motor and the bulk of my time has been in changeover booths were the starts and stops are many times more than in a platter booth...still...no motor failures and some are going on 40-50 years of service. Steve ------------------ "Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
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Manny Knowles
"What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???"

Posts: 4247
From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 10-07-2002 10:46 AM
My platter leader is about 100-feet in length.I know that the operators are going to let it touch the floor, so I put the framing marks -- just ONE frame for picture and ONE for sound -- very early on the leader to force them to limit where it touches the floor. Just in case anyone is curious...If there is a need to splice the leader, there are little "tick" marks to indicate where framelines are. The operators use the "Run Down" feature (Christie/Pennywise CA-21 automations) after lacing/threading. A foil cue stops the motor at the countdown point. There is another long gap between the start point and the dowser open cue (another foil cue). It's all black film with white frame lines. (Don't worry Brad, now that I know about the all-black leader with the frame lines between the sprockets, I'll be switching for the next batch. The white frame lines sometimes show up in scope movies.) Basically, the idea is that the operators will be cutting a black frame each time they build-up/tear-down, so they'll need a lot of them. Also, I wanted to put just that much extra distance between a potential "handling area" and the actual trailers. With so much leader, I have accomplished a couple of things: 1. The motor runs for a while; it isn't "bumped" on and off. 2. If there is a problem with the threading, the run-down will let the projectionist know. Same for the platter...If something isn't right, the run-down will reveal that, too. 3. With so much film between where the leader is handled and the point where it actually meets up with actual program material, it is unlikely that the program material will be molested. ~Manny (Practically Perfeckt In Every Way.)
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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 10-07-2002 11:14 AM
I agree that long lengths of protective leader go a long way in keeping dirt off the print, for BOTH platter and reel-to-reel projection. You should NEVER be handling the actual image area during thread-up, or letting it drag or get on the dirty floor. Obviously, if you have up to a hundred feet of leader, "motoring" to the start point is the only practical method of getting there. I think Gordon's concern is for those who "bump" the motor off and on REPEATEDLY to get to a precise start point, which obviously puts considerable wear on the gear train with accelerations and decelerations against the inertia of the projector's gear train. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243 e-mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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