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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Strong Platter Slowdown and Stop (Page 2)

 
This topic comprises 5 pages: 1  2  3  4  5 
 
Author Topic: Strong Platter Slowdown and Stop
Shaun Flichel
Film Handler

Posts: 42
From: Regina, Sask., Canada
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 10-06-2002 08:07 PM      Profile for Shaun Flichel   Email Shaun Flichel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What kind of Projector are you running? Its sound like either you shut the machine down just as the variac hits full tilt, or you have a very fast stopping machine. Can you not just thread up, rotate the motor a few times to assure proper threading and start from there??, Like I mean threading up where you absolutely have to.

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Richard Fowler
Film God

Posts: 2392
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Registered: Jun 2001


 - posted 10-06-2002 08:38 PM      Profile for Richard Fowler   Email Richard Fowler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When I train people on a Potts/Strong I have them thread near the start point and turn over the motor by hand to check the platter operation....there is so much you can do with an electromechical set-up...the larger ring does help...again the design is a cost issue with a Speco and other platters $500 - 1500 more per unit.....most American projectors are not invertor driven so ramping down to a stop is not available. On our Century rebuilds we do put invertor setups which greatly prolong the gear train and allow a Potts/Strong platter to follow.
Richard Fowler
TVP-Theatre & Video Products Inc. www.tvpmiami.com

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 10-06-2002 08:57 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I think Joe is working tonight, so I'll answer for him.

Shaun, Joe is running Simplex XLs. They have a pretty good ramp down, but apparently not enough.

Richard, Joe's projectors do not have flywheels. He can only use the motor switch. It's a weird situation indeed. Regarding Strong, a minor re-design of the platter would not increase it's cost. To hell with quality anyway, right? Cheap, cheap, cheap is always the better decision.

Joe, I really think your best bet is to hit the manual motor switch, then at a predetermined point on the leader press START and release the manual motor switch. That way you don't have the first trailer exposed out of the film roll, you don't have to worry about the first trailer getting abraded while the Strong platter tries to get up to speed and you still maintain the benefit of a decent length of leader.


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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 10-06-2002 09:50 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Even after motoring to the "start point" I have made sure that there is enough full coat leader to go all the way back to the platter and into the roll. I think the "rolling start" is a decent temporary solution, but I'd really like the larger rings. Anyone know what the price range for one is? They CANNOT be $500. Or even $250. It's not they they are super complex precision machined devices. Also, I have enough full coat leader attached after my frameline leader that threading up to the precise frame is irrelevant.

My projectors have a slightly "longer than normal" ramp down speed I'd say. They stop a bit slower than most projectors that I have worked with. But when the leader is motoring and the Strong motors sucking at full force due to the wimpy rings and I suddenly switch the motor off, the Strong motors simply have too much torque to stop fast enough. Never a problem with Christie platter motors.

If Strong would be willing to swap the 13 inch rings for 19 inch ones, I would be an extremely happy camper! Also, if Strong has any other solutions they want to try, I would certainly be happy to field test for them.


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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 10-06-2002 10:48 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Joe, I hope you are allowing the projector motor to come up to full speed and for the platter to find its null before you shut the motor down. If the platter is still "hunting" when you shut the projector motor down, most anything that is undesirable can and probably will happen.

They are not very stable machines on start-up. Some of them will scare the crap out of a newbie when they see those things "take off" on startup.

Mine handle the ramp-down just fine, even at the very beginning. From time to time some doofus forgets to remove the DTS Logo on the movie that is moved to another house, and if I catch it, I'll motor it off manually. The platters stabilize nicely in that period of time, and the ramp down causes absolutely no problem.


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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 10-06-2002 11:43 PM      Profile for Ken Layton   Email Ken Layton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The 19" center ring is part number 3960 and the price is shown as $51. on RSEM.com's site.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-07-2002 12:37 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I for one don't like seeing anyone motor down in fact if I catch some one doing it the warranty on the machines is void
Starting and stopping is the period of greatest stress on the gear train or belts and is unnesassary
If one is carefull there is no reason not to thread on pix start and inch down by hand to the necassary start point
Also the inrush current puts undo stress on what are typically undersized relays and manual switchs

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 10-07-2002 01:05 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree with all but one of your points Gordon, especially the wear and tear on the equipment. However dirt WILL be attracted to where the film was handled. This is a fact of life and there is no "being careful" that will get anyone around it. That would be like saying that it is ok to store videotapes on top of a large subwoofer so long as the person doing it is careful. Bullshit.

Another way to look at it...if the equipment you are installing cannot handle being turned on and off, why don't you just remove the manual motor switch? Also, what is that saying for the equipment's reliability factor? Of course any projector will last longer if it is not abused by turning the motor on and off, but what machine cannot make it through it's warranty period if someone motors down the leader on each show for the year or two warranty period? Of course Joe doesn't even have the capability to manually turn the projector over by hand, so he has to do a running start, thread on the cue frame or motor the leader down.

This is also why automations without a start cue are a foolish design that does not take into account respect to the film...and that cost excuse be damned here, it wouldn't jack up the price of an automation enough to matter for such a feature to be implemented.


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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 10-07-2002 03:24 AM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Out of curiosity, how do you get the intermittent sproket 'in-frame' without a way to turn over the motor by hand?


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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 10-07-2002 04:08 AM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What I have to do is grab the belt that connects the machine to the motor itself and pull on that to advance the projector. That is the only way to set the intermittent. This theater used to be owned by Mann Theaters when they were in Denver. It was the moron techs of the time who took the flywheels off to add Selsyn motors. There are no flywheels on them, either. I guess they threw them out because I can't find them anywhere.

And Gordon, I think our Simplex projectors are well beyond their warranty! I doubt I could break them even if I wanted to, anyway.

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Wes Hughes
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 175
From: Raleigh, NC, USA
Registered: Aug 2001


 - posted 10-07-2002 05:03 AM      Profile for Wes Hughes   Email Wes Hughes   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In all seriousness, you make some good points, Brad. Really.

I'm not big into arguments, so i'll leave it with a compliment.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 10-07-2002 07:43 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gordon, I completely disagree with you on this one...I AWLAYS and I mean ALWAYS motor down whenever possible. That is, even at the Uptown, I've always added extra scrap film (typically I "recycle" old trailers into thread up leaders...they have frame lines and all)...you thread up on that part and then motor down to the countdown. It is one extra start for the motor and results and in no dirt or other crappy presentations due to handling the film so near the first frame. Same with platters...I always thread up way early on the leader and motor down to the countdown area...In fact I require it...if you make a mistake on your threading...better to tear up a section of cheap leader than ANY part of the actual print, including it's leader.

In my 20+ years of showing films...I've yet to loose a motor and the bulk of my time has been in changeover booths were the starts and stops are many times more than in a platter booth...still...no motor failures and some are going on 40-50 years of service.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

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Manny Knowles
"What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???"

Posts: 4247
From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 10-07-2002 10:46 AM      Profile for Manny Knowles   Email Manny Knowles   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My platter leader is about 100-feet in length.

I know that the operators are going to let it touch the floor, so I put the framing marks -- just ONE frame for picture and ONE for sound -- very early on the leader to force them to limit where it touches the floor.

Just in case anyone is curious...If there is a need to splice the leader, there are little "tick" marks to indicate where framelines are.

The operators use the "Run Down" feature (Christie/Pennywise CA-21 automations) after lacing/threading. A foil cue stops the motor at the countdown point.

There is another long gap between the start point and the dowser open cue (another foil cue). It's all black film with white frame lines. (Don't worry Brad, now that I know about the all-black leader with the frame lines between the sprockets, I'll be switching for the next batch. The white frame lines sometimes show up in scope movies.) Basically, the idea is that the operators will be cutting a black frame each time they build-up/tear-down, so they'll need a lot of them. Also, I wanted to put just that much extra distance between a potential "handling area" and the actual trailers.

With so much leader, I have accomplished a couple of things:

1. The motor runs for a while; it isn't "bumped" on and off.
2. If there is a problem with the threading, the run-down will let the projectionist know. Same for the platter...If something isn't right, the run-down will reveal that, too.
3. With so much film between where the leader is handled and the point where it actually meets up with actual program material, it is unlikely that the program material will be molested.

~Manny (Practically Perfeckt In Every Way.)


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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 10-07-2002 11:14 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree that long lengths of protective leader go a long way in keeping dirt off the print, for BOTH platter and reel-to-reel projection. You should NEVER be handling the actual image area during thread-up, or letting it drag or get on the dirty floor. Obviously, if you have up to a hundred feet of leader, "motoring" to the start point is the only practical method of getting there.

I think Gordon's concern is for those who "bump" the motor off and on REPEATEDLY to get to a precise start point, which obviously puts considerable wear on the gear train with accelerations and decelerations against the inertia of the projector's gear train.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243
e-mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

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Thomas Procyk
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1842
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 10-07-2002 11:49 AM      Profile for Thomas Procyk   Email Thomas Procyk   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We had both sized rings on our Strong platters when the theater opened. Not sure if they came with the package or if they were ordered later, but each unit had a small and large ring. We only had 2 or 3 platters out of 18 that would go "apeshit" (for lack of a better word) when the projector was stopped after motoring down.

The larger rings helped, (elevators would still hit the top, but wouldn't pull on the film) and smoother performance overall at startup was noticed when we used them instead of the small ones. There were instances where we specifically used the small rings as a precaution on large movies. (i.e. GWTW, Titanic, any Double Feature...) They got pretty durn close to the edge!

=TMP=

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