Steve

Steve, I know what you are recommending works, but there is a big IF you know what you are doing and are very careful that needs to be attached to that. I can see a lot of people trying to follow that advice and dumping prints onto the floor because of that recommendation. Without very detailed explanations and pictures, I really don't think you should be pitching that idea. Someone reading this is going to try it, destroy a print and lose their job because of that little tip.

Steve

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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

My question is: once you've removed the old trailer, how can you put in the "hole" another one? In other words, how can you rewind a trailer of the exact size of the left hole?

Let's suppose that you have to change 16 trailers in a multiplex in just one show and two projectionists: is it possibile in your opinion? If made after the shows, how much time would you spend (again, two projs) to add/change 16 trailers?

I'll wait for your answers!

Bye

Maybe this only works on Christie platters that have years of residue from using those "sticky poos" so there is enough friction on the platter to keep the print from spinning off.

As to putting the previews back in...no problem...you have plenty of room...the fact they don't mate up (diameter wise) is of no consequence. If you got carried away with the size of the sponge, you could cause a platter like the Strong to not be able to keep up (since the payout speed is dependant on the TU speed).

One operator could do your 16 trailer changes...at least _I_ could do all 16.

But not all operators are created equal. What I can do or Brad or others isn't what everyone can do. I don't claim my methods will work safely for everyone.

Steve

I am in a gambling mood, so I'll attempt to describe my method for changing trailers without picture. I have a feeling this won't work, but here goes.

Here is the situation. The trailer pack looks like this:
1) Ads
2) Trailer 1
3) Trailer 2
4) Trailer 3
5) Trailer 4
6) Trailer 5
7) Policy trailer/digital trailer
Lets say you want to remove trailer 3 and put in a new one of approximately the same length. To do this, follow these steps:
1) Remove the center ring
2) Tear the splice between trailer 2 and trailer 3
3) Remove the first part of the trailer pack (everything before trailer 3) and place soundtrack down on an empty platter
4) Re-insert the center ring into the now seperated trailers. You may have to make it smaller to get it into the roll, but once its in there expand it until it is snug
5) Flip the trailer pack over and secure the center ring the platter. It should look like you're about to build up a movie and you just got the trailers onto the platter
6) Go back to the second half of the trailers. Break the splice between trailer 3 and trailer 4. Take out trailer 3 and set it to the side to be wound up later
7) Go back to the first half of the trailer pack. Splice the head of the new trailer to the tail of trailer 2. Now, spin the platter by hand until you have 'built' the new trailer onto the platter. Hold the core of the new trailer in place with your finger or a marker
8) Once the new trailer is in the pack and the tail is removed, pick the trailer pack off the platter and flip it upside down again. Remove the center ring
9) Take the now loose first half of your trailer pack and plop it into the hole in your print. Splice the tail of the new trailer to the head of trailer 4

Some notes:
1) The above procedure was developed using Strong platters. Other platters may require different methods
2) The above procedure assumes the new trailer won't be significantly longer than the old one. A Strong platter can handle an 'outward bulge,' ie the trailer pack bulging out of the 'hole' and the excess resting on top of the print, to be pulled down and through the brain during payout. Other platter may not be able to handle this. If your platter can not handle outward bulges, you could insert sponges ala Steve Guttags method to creat extra space for the new trailer.

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I wonder how you can set the sponges on 16 projectors (you have to stay at the platter during the time of the trailer, right?) while others are starting the show and while others stop waiting for threading... Perhaps I missed something!

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That assumes you will use start timers and change-out trailers/thread in the order they drop. I am never around when the trailers run through. Never had a botched center drop in over 15 years, doing it on a weekly basis.

So Steve, would you consider doing a center drop, then stringing up the print for a multiple screen interlock, setting the timers and leaving the building with no one in the booth? To me I can walk away without worrying about anything going wrong, and although I don't preach the idea, I have done this on many occasions without problems. However I do not like the idea of pulling the ring on a take-up platter, as that is the only absolute thing holding the film onto the deck. I once had a couple of ushers carrying a large box up to the booth for storage and one of them backed into a running platter. It was hard enough to throw the payout's film way off center and barely hanging over the edge, but it didn't actually fall off. With the pull of the takeup and an off center, ring-less print on the takeup platter, if I was running a print your way the first half of the movie would have been destroyed as it met with the floor. Each person has what they feel is a "safe" practice or not. You pull your rings and I'll not worry about being around when an interlock starts/runs. However you don't see me preaching my operator-less interlocks now, do you?

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Note: you may have to install a specialized outlet running off of one breaker that is left on all the time for the timer and each module, as the signals transmit through the 110V lines.

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