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Author Topic: Rank the various brands of splicing tape Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 09-23-2008 11:51 AM                     Regarding ease of removal and residue left behind: #1 Neumade clear #2 Neumade opaque #3 Neumade zebra #67-104 everything else clear #187-219 everything else with colored marks or opaque There is no #4-66. The Neumade is THAT much better. That being said if your splices are not going to be left on the print for an extended period of time, the Jack Roe and "QuickSplice" tapes will peel without too much aggravation, although neither will peel as easy as the Neumade. I've got films probably 20 years old now that have Neumade splices in them and even today they will still peel without leaving any residue. Anything non-Neumade is a godawful sticky mess. Why adding the color to the tape kills the peeling ability I don't know, but for example the QuickSplice brand the clear will come off without too much hassle, but their zebra is possibly the worst shit ever made called "tape". It is also very important to note that the Neumade is the ONLY tape that will not gum up your splicer. To anyone thinking I am joking, take two brand new splicers (Neumade splicers of course) and use one exclusively with Neumade clear tape and the other with anything else clear. (Let's be fair and leave out the colored shit.) Use both of those splicers for 6 months. Note at the end of the 6 month period the splicer used with Neumade tape has had no wear or cleaning needed, while the other one is already starting to show wear and in need of cleaning. Keep the test going for as long as you like...the results get more and more obvious. Case in point, people who come to my screening room tend to think that I have a brand new splicer. Not so. Joe, as to your question, nobody has ever been able to break those prints down, as I'll usually get a phone call wanting to know how I got a print in one roll. It's amazing the level of training in these booths today. A number of times I ended up going to the theater and breaking it down for them. Idiots.  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 09-23-2008 01:14 PM                     quote: Joe Redifer You can tell them I said that! Just use a piece of masking tape to mark how full the reel is on the inside of the reel itself during build-up Please remember that in Italy (and I think in Europe) prints are shipped in a different way. Marco  |  IP: Logged Galen Murphy-Fahlgren Master Film Handler Posts: 405 From: Canton, MI, USA Registered: Oct 2007 posted 09-23-2008 02:41 PM                     And in India.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 09-23-2008 03:17 PM                     quote: Brad Miller A number of times I ended up going to the theater and breaking it down for them. Idiots. Dang...and that's pretty sad in itself-doing someone elses work and they get to slide by... You get to show them how to read splices on the roll that aren't marked so you won't have to do their job again?  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 09-23-2008 04:09 PM                     Ultrasonics, Monte.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 09-23-2008 04:17 PM                     Okey, gotcha. Still though, it shouldn't be hard to find where the splice is when looking on the filmroll and see the change in roll surface texture and knowing that is where the splice is (if one can get past the lab splice joins...), you think....  |  IP: Logged Mike Croaro Master Film Handler Posts: 394 From: Millbrae, CA Registered: Apr 2005 posted 09-23-2008 09:48 PM                     Hi Folks: Does anyone still use the old splicer unites that use the pre-punched tape? I've been out of the business so long I don't even remember what they were called. "Butt splicers", or perhaps "Hollywood splicers"? The white tape for those units was extra thick and held the splicers very well. And the roll went 5 times farther than the current style splicing tape. Mike  |  IP: Logged Jon Miller Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 973 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 09-23-2008 10:02 PM                     Those were Rivas splicers, named for a sound technician with MGM in the 1950s and originally used to splice fullcoat. These were fairly simple and easy to use once you were familiar with the process (and reasonably coordinated to boot, as placing the tape on the alignment pins is slightly tricky). The perforated tape, though, is more expensive and harder to find nowadays.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 09-24-2008 01:18 AM                     ...and you definitely knew when one of those Riva splices went through your machine - being the splice was definitely not going to bend that all easilly. ..really clattered through the trap and gate assembly..  |  IP: Logged Paul J. Neuhaus Expert Film Handler Posts: 126 From: Iraq.. Again! Registered: Jun 2005 posted 09-24-2008 08:56 AM                     Not to get on the band wagon of calling people incompetant but damn!!! All you have to do is look at the print from an angle while at your MUT. Use a lamp on the opposite side of the print from you if need be but the platter lights should be plenty. The reels when looked at are slightly differnt colors. You can easily tell where one reel ends and another one starts. Just slow down the speed and feel for the splice..... waaaaalaa DONE! It is ridiculous how easy it is... Clear splicing tape is all you ever need!!  |  IP: Logged Chris Slycord Film God Posts: 2986 From: 청주시, 경북도, South Korea Registered: Mar 2007 posted 09-24-2008 09:25 AM                     quote: Paul J. Neuhaus The reels when looked at are slightly differnt colors. I've seen many prints where the edge color changes mid-reel, like if there had been a lab splice there.  |  IP: Logged Mike Blakesley Film God Posts: 12767 From: Forsyth, Montana Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-24-2008 10:54 AM                        True, but a quick visual of that splice will usually show that it's (a) a lab splice and (b) in the middle of a scene, and thus not likely a reel change. I'm firmly in the all-clear, all the time camp here - when I first got into the biz, mid-reel splices were very common but now, they're rare enough in most cases that there's no need for any kinds of marks on the tape.  |  IP: Logged Damien Taylor Master Film Handler Posts: 493 From: Perth, Western Australia Registered: Apr 2007 posted 09-24-2008 11:04 AM                     An Australian guide to splicing choices. #1 Atlab clear splicing tape. #2 Scotch tape. #3 Staples. #4 Needle and thread.  |  IP: Logged Chris Slycord Film God Posts: 2986 From: 청주시, 경북도, South Korea Registered: Mar 2007 posted 09-24-2008 11:41 AM                     quote: Mike Blakesley True, but a quick visual of that splice will usually show that it's (a) a lab splice and (b) in the middle of a scene, and thus not likely a reel change. I was just pointing out that blindly following the "color change = reel change" doesn't always work.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 09-24-2008 01:03 PM                        And for the third or fourth time, that's why you mark how full each reel is.  |  IP: Logged

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