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Author Topic: Rank the various brands of splicing tape Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-01-2008 05:11 PM                     Nice thing about FG is that you can also use it on the smaller formats of 8, 9.5 and 16mm films - being of all triacetate stock. ..and I'm sure that it's used on nitrate stock as well in those protected areas..  |  IP: Logged Jim Cassedy Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1661 From: San Francisco, CA Registered: Dec 2006 posted 10-02-2008 09:23 AM                     quote: Frank Angel some of us can actually get a sense of, dare I say it, personal satisfaction in making a near unplayable print practically as good as new when it leaves the booth Yes! Haven't we all had to deal with this at one time or another? My best print resurrection was of what I was told was one of the last surviving 35mm prints of "Lenny!" about comedian Lenny Bruce. It was in HORRIBLE shape!- one of the worst prints I'd ever seen, and I had to run it as part of a film festival which was heavily advertised and was drawing big crowds. It was an old, dried-out, brittle acetate print. Some reels seemed to consist of more splices (cement and tape) than film. Entire sections, sometimes 20, or 30 feet, or more were missing perforations from one side of the film. (see photo) Other long sections had somehow acquired accordian pleats. Forget about any usable leaders. (And this was a changeover booth) And it smelled like enough vinegar to make a 'big salad'. Most of the film consisted of footage of a Lenny Bruce performance apparantly shot only days before he died of a heroin overdose. As horrible as it sounds, when I saw this print I remember wishing he had OD'ed a few days earlier so that I wouldn't have to deal with this mess of a print that looked like it had been used to teach a projector threading and splicing class to a group of idiots who had zero aptitude for either task. It took me several hours, and a lot of swearing, but I managed to get the thing in runnable shape for my one show, and perhaps a few more after it left my theater. Lenny Bruce had a very self-destructive personality. Nobody could save Lenny the man, but I managed to save Lenny the movie. It's just part of what I do.... Actual Photo (WoW!) This was actually a GOOD section of the print! Here, only the very edge of the film is gone. Some sections even had the little 'perf-tits' removed for 20-50ft. (So it only had perfs along one edge)  |  IP: Logged Bill Enos Film God Posts: 2081 From: Richmond, Virginia, USA Registered: Apr 2000 posted 10-02-2008 12:50 PM                     Those stubs of perfs actually function nearly as well as intact edges. In the mid '80s we ran a lot of "classics". Many were prints left over from the '50s and '60s and occasionally there would be a few feet with both edges like the pictured piece, most ran OK. Lots of parts with 30 to 40 feet with perfs on one side only---those almost always ran OK.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 10-02-2008 01:32 PM                     And yet a Century projector (and possibly others) could run that without the edge no problem, provided you were running from a platter with the missing edge up on the deck. Been there, done that many times.  |  IP: Logged Howard Johnson Film Handler Posts: 87 From: Felpham , West Sussex, UK Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-02-2008 02:32 PM                     Now now Joe! If you are dealing with used prints with several joins then it is vital to mark the correct reel end. I use clear tape and make a chinagraph line across the join so it is not visible, many people over here do this. I also peel the tape away when breaking down so leaving the tail or leader with one side taped. It is so easy for the next person, I hate having to peel away four bits of tape on each join when making up a print because the previous person just cut the joins and wound the tail or leader in with reel.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 10-02-2008 05:13 PM                        Chinagraph? You mean china marker? That stuff flakes onto the picture!  |  IP: Logged Charles Greenlee Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 801 From: Savannah, Ga, U.S. Registered: Jun 2006 posted 10-02-2008 05:51 PM                        Well, I didn't consider the difference in appearance from reel to reel as a difference in "color", liked like a difference in shine. The film really doesn't appear a different color to me. I wonder if the edges of the film are polished in a way?  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 10-03-2008 10:40 AM                        OK I will concede that if the print is in bad shape then it's cool to use some sort of edgemark tape. So, what do you guys assemble your trailers with?  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-03-2008 12:48 PM                     simple clear tape. I leave the black header before the rating tag on - just hate seeing that splice join when the rating tag comes on screen. And I cut down by the "kodak girl" when removing the tail lead. Just a smooth trailer transaction. Gripes my gall when the cut is made as the end credits begins to fade then immediately is the next trailer without any form of break inbetween. Those operators need not to be in the booth with sloppy trailer presentations like that - let along having to use opaque tape as well in trailer pak assemblies. -Monte  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 10-03-2008 08:01 PM                        I try to do the same, but I have discovered that you can't leave too much head and tail on or you might hear some weird sounds on some trailers. Sometimes it will even revert to analog despite there being what looks like perfect SR-D code. I leave about 10-12 frames of black before the green band and usually about 8-10 frames of black after the very last frame of the trailer.  |  IP: Logged Justin Hamaker Film God Posts: 2253 From: Lakeport, CA USA Registered: Jan 2004 posted 10-04-2008 12:26 AM                        I never really thought about leaving a couple black frames before the green band, but I like the idea now that your mention it. However, I've always left about a foot of black at the end of each trailer.  |  IP: Logged Geena Phillips Expert Film Handler Posts: 198 From: Norcross, GA / USA Registered: Apr 2006 posted 10-14-2008 09:52 PM                        I assemble my trailers with clear tape, and I try to leave a decent amount of black frames at the beginning and end of each one. However, since I still have some opaque yellow tape that I inherited with one of my booths, I use it to put together Screenvision ads. It's free, and I can honestly say I don't particularly care about the presentation quality of TV ads polluting my screens. Once it runs out, I'll go to clear.  |  IP: Logged Galen Murphy-Fahlgren Master Film Handler Posts: 405 From: Canton, MI, USA Registered: Oct 2007 posted 10-15-2008 10:00 AM                     I recently switched from Neumade striped to Jack Roe SRD t-stripe. Now, I have never heard or seen SRD drop from a tape splice, at least not one I made, so I think the SRD aspect is hype, but it peels at least as well as the Neumade striped. Not quite as well as Neumade clear, and I've only broken down a print built with Jack Roe after a week run, so the jury is still out on its long term peelability, but I'm quite optimistic. I have some Neumade laying around, so maybe I'll do a comparison some time.  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 10-18-2008 11:57 AM                       I use Kodak Presstapes.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 10-18-2008 01:47 PM                     quote: charles greenlee Well, I didn't consider the difference in appearance from reel to reel as a difference in "color", liked like a difference in shine. The film really doesn't appear a different color to me. I wonder if the edges of the film are polished in a way? EDITED to add: Sorry for the duplicate info, I didn't see jhawk's post till after I posted this... Our great member John P. (R.I.P.) explained that the difference in sheen on the edges is a result of the slitting process when the film stock is made. It is manufactured in very wide rolls and slit down into several 35mm widths (I think it was something like 30 per roll of master stock.) Actually 38...  |  IP: Logged

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