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Topic: Building Prints Questions.

Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 07-07-2004 08:17 AM

If you use either Neumade or Splycemar brand clear tape, there is no hint of residue at all. It's like putting a Post-It Note on a piece of paper then removing it. It's effortless and leaves no hint that it was ever there. No other brand of tape on the market can claim this. My comment was assuming you were using either Neumade or Splycemar brand clear tape.

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Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 07-07-2004 04:46 PM

quote:
CPI has become a professional group of scam artists... That's why they no longer have any quality products. Everything they sell now is bottom of the barrel crap.

So true! Unfortunately we have CPI tape at work, garbage! The stuff doesn't peel off in one piece because it is so thin. You end up having to peel many slivers of tape from the film!

I always use the Neumade at home, it always peels off in one piece and leaves no goo behind.

danny

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Christopher Seo
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 530
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-07-2004 09:58 PM

Ahh, quit griping Danny! Just be lucky I let you work there! [Mad]

Yes, the CPI tape isn't the best. Of course, CPI doesn't make the tape... doesn't Jack Roe? Regardless, that same tape is distributed under at least three different brands.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-07-2004 10:34 PM

Personally I find the JackRoe tape the most durable

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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999

posted 07-08-2004 02:22 AM

I don't believe that Jack Roe is making tape for CPI anymore.

-Aaron

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 07-08-2004 11:16 AM

Jack Roe tape can be had through Jack Roe or by requesting it from your dealer.

Any tape currently being sent out under CPI should be thrown back at your dealer. Their tape will undoubtedly change every few months as each manufacturer gets burned (they don't pay their bills) and they move on to another.

Re: clear tape
Neumade/Splycemar tape is the best hands down. Anyone disagreeing is wrong, including Christopher Seo. Jack Roe is my second and only other choice, but the last batch I got had bad slitting and the 4 horizontal lines on screen from it were obnoxious, so it had to be reserved for trailer splicing. There is still the issue of residue after peeling a little bit, but it's not too bad. Never, ever residue when using Neumade/Splycemar.

Re: zebra tape
First off, anyone using this needs to learn how to break down a print properly. However for those who just insist on using marked tape, the T-Stripe from Jack Roe can't be beat. Neumade/Splycemar is my second choice in this department. Expect some residue from both.

Re: opaque tape
Anyone using opaque tape needs to be fired from their job, then taken out back and shot in the head at close range because they are stupid and lazy. For those wishing death upon themselves in this manner (we will be sending out crews to do the dirty work), does it really matter what kind of tape you use? After all, you and your presentation suck royally anyway, so there's little doubt you are putting forth any effort to take care of the prints.

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 07-08-2004 11:25 AM

Brad: You never answered my question. How can Neumade clear tape not leave residue, but their zebra tape does? I'm not disagreeing with you, I'm just asking because I'm confused. Is not the adhesive material the same?

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Christopher Seo
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 530
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-08-2004 08:38 PM

quote: Brad Miller
Neumade/Splycemar tape is the best hands down. Anyone disagreeing is wrong, including Christopher Seo.

quote: Christopher Seo
Yes, the CPI tape isn't the best.

I hereby officially endorse Neumade tape as the best non-perforated splicing tape in the known universe!

I looked at the CPI tape we have and it says "Made in UK". We got this stuff around the beginning of the year, IIRC.

Ken, I wouldn't be surprised if the adhesive is different. The yellow stripe is printed on the adhesive side (since it leaves a yellow stripe residue on the film), so perhaps a different adhesive is needed for that purpose. Or maybe the process needed to put the stripe on messes up the adhesive. Regardless, it's really annoying when you peel off a piece of zebra tape in which the stripe was incorrectly placed (i.e., in the projected image area) and the stripe is still there!

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 07-08-2004 09:51 PM

quote:
I hereby officially endorse Neumade tape as the best non-perforated splicing tape in the known universe!

Good! Now Danny will let you live. [Wink]

Ken, not knowing anything about the manufacture of splicing tape, I'm really not the person to ask, but the adhesive clearly has to be different.

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 07-09-2004 03:14 AM

That's interesting. I always thought the stripe was printed on the non-adhesive side. I don't use Nuemade tape, but sometimes when we get used prints, it still has the tape on it. (Yellow zebra, not sure what brand.) I've never had a problem with part of the stripe being left on the film after I peel it off.

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Thomas Procyk
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1842
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL, USA
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 07-09-2004 11:29 AM

What about Neumade "Cherry" or "Hot Pink" or whatever they call it tape? It's the tape with the clear center, no T-stripe, and only two thin red stripes on the SDDS track edges. (Maybe the SRD too, I dunno) We used to use this back in the day at the 18-screen, and I get some used prints with it left on sometimes nowadays.

It comes off as easy as the Neumade Clear stuff, quick and easy, doesn't leave residue and the red lines don't stay behind. I think they're printed on the outer surface, not the adhesive side.

I agree, the yellow "zebra" tape is a mess. I get prints with the heads and tails spliced on with this stuff (yeah, I know, at least they're splicesd) and if they spliced in a hurry, you have a vertical yellow line going through the image or the soundtrack, and it's time to bust out the F-G!

=TMP=

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Jannette McQueen
Film Handler

Posts: 50
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Registered: Sep 2003

posted 12-09-2004 11:24 AM

quote:
Posted by Josh Kirkhart:

4. A one-sided splice over a cue is fine and in good practice. It makes it easier to identify in breakdown/build-up for removal. In cases of Barcoded cues a splice under the cue is easier to remove as it is less widely used. As far as cues coming off, never seen it or had it happen, at worst you replace it.

Is this the consensus on the splice tape over the cue question? I had been wondering about this recently as well. The theater I'm currently at, has been making their cues this way for some time, and I had no reason to question it until last week I ran into a brain wrap because the splice tape over the cue had partially peeled off. I'll admit it's possible that I was partly responsible for the tape peeling off, if, when I replaced a non-working cue, the tape hadn't been entirely stuck down properly. But I still questioned why we needed the extra layer on the film. My thought is, it's cue *tape*, it *is* supposed to stick to the film, no? My colleague's reasoning for the extra tape is so that the cue doesn't peel off and adhere to another part of the film. But you said you'd never heard of that happening. He said he'd rather be alerted to the fact that there's enough stress being put to the film to rip off the cue, rather than just have cues mysteriously move.

I used to work at a second-run theater, and was used to dealing with "new" prints where the old cues had not been removed. Only rarely did I ever see a cue taped on in this manner. *Is* it more common than I realize?

EDIT: and I don't recall ever having any trouble finding a cue without the tape over it. In fact, when breaking down a print, that leaves you to remove a piece of tape in addition to the cue itself.

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Jason Miller
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 241
From: Little Rock, AR,
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 12-09-2004 12:20 PM

many theatres will put clear splice over a foil cue to keep it from wearing down as quickly so it doesnt have to be replaced.

same with bar codes. though I have seen them put the barcode cue BETWEEN 2 layers of splicing tape so that it comes off as well as has protection.

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Dominic Espinosa
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1172
From: California, U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 12-09-2004 12:31 PM

I've never covered a cue with a piece of tape.
In my experience as long as you're using a good quality cue tape (not cpi! i hate cpi!) then you'll be fine. In fact, it's a pain in the ass to get Neumade cue tape to come off even when you want it to sometimes.
There should be no circumstances so great that your cue tape must be secured with tape. If there are then you should take a hard look at your film path and see what's putting that much stress on the film.

The application process I've followed with my cues are as follows:
Place the smallest cue the systems will detect wherever it needs to be.
Perforate it with the splicer after placing it if it's over the holes.

I've only had a couple problems with this and both involved CPI cue tape. Sometimes they just come off, but usually it's because they weren't applied right.

Tape shouldn't be used because it'll cause more displacement in the gate (i.e. in a lights up cue at the end of the feature) with tape on it.

As for marking the print:
NEVER mark the print with anything!
If you have a hard time finding a splice put some tape over the splice before you break down. It's just fine.
If your projectionists can't/won't handle the film correctly they need to be phased out.
Feeling the edge of the roll will also tell you when you're getting close to the splices. After a while you can get good enough to stop the platter within one or two revolutions of the splice.
Practice makes perfect!

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Jason Miller
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 241
From: Little Rock, AR,
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 12-09-2004 05:27 PM

quote: Dominic Espinosa
Tape shouldn't be used because it'll cause more displacement in the gate (i.e. in a lights up cue at the end of the feature) with tape on it.

it wouldnt cause any more displacement than a splice between each reel would. but it DOES keep foil cues from wearing as quickly, especially the cues that have to be placed over sprockets.

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