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Author
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Topic: D-SLR chat
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Bobby Henderson
"Ask me about Trajan."

Posts: 10973
From: Lawton, OK, USA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 11-13-2009 12:50 PM
I agree. The upside is Canon might end up doing that. Originally they weren't going to update the 5D Mark II with 1080p/24 capability but when enough people complained and it looked like the 7D might attract too many potential 5D buyers Canon relented and began work on a firmware update.
quote: Scott Norwood Regarding the camera thing: if you want a video camera, why not just buy a video camera? I can see why a digital still camera might be useful for animators who would use it on a copy stand (and then put the frames together on a computer), but I don't see the benefit of using one instead of a normal video camera to shoot live action. Different tools for different purposes. Or maybe I'm just stupid.
It all comes down to how you want a certain shot to look. A video capable DSLR can provide a great deal of flexibility.
A DSLR camera can use a much wider variety of lenses than what is available for a traditional video camera setup. You can use macro lenses, tilt-shift lenses, prime lenses with huge apertures, telephoto and super telephoto lenses.
Many video cameras are stuck with a one size fits all lens pack. Video cameras with interchangeable lens packs have a more limited range of choices than the choices of lenses availble for DSLR cameras.
The full frame sensor in the Canon EOS 5D Mark II is larger than the sensors found in most video cameras. I think that helps the camera capture some great color and constrast quality. With video cameras, the ones with 1/3" CCDs are already fairly expensive and then moving up to a 2/3" system just ends up breaking the bank.
The drawbacks with 5D MkII and 7D is both shoot lossy compressed AVC encoded video and can't output uncompressed HD. Both have some sort of rolling shutter thingie going on while shooting video that makes it a big problem if you want to do any fast pans. You'll see vertical objects (buildings, light posts, etc.) get slanted looking during the pan. It's best to shoot stationary from a tripod or move the camera slowly if shooting hand held. The weight of the camera body and a fairly big lens can damp out some camera shake, but you really need to use a more expensive image stabilized lens if shooting hand held.
A number of companies are creating after-market products such as focusing rails, outboard LCD monitors and more for the 5D Mark II and 7D.
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Bobby Henderson
"Ask me about Trajan."

Posts: 10973
From: Lawton, OK, USA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 11-14-2009 06:11 PM
quote: Tim Reed I have been reading about (and concerned with) the amount of exposures I could take over a period of time doing a lot of animation or time lapse: the shutter operational life. Are these mechanical shutters with pellicles that flip out of the way when exposures are made?
DSLR cameras have a reflex mirror that flips up. Shutter "curtains" rest behind the mirror and in front of the camera's image sensor. Canon's 1D series bodies have a shutter durability rating of 300,000 exposures. The 5D Mark II and 7D shutters are rated for 150,000 shots. The less expensive bodies are rated for 100,000 exposures. Fortunately, DSLR shutters can be replaced.
quote: Tim Reed Also, I hear the frame to frame exposure can vary ever so slightly with mechanical shutters, as to render any animation unusable?
A few steps should be taken to keep the shot stable and consistent looking as possible.
* Use a custom, manual white balance. Auto white balance will cause color shifts and flashing. * Once focus is set keep the lens switched to manual focus. * Use the mirror lock-up function to eliminate vibrations caused by mirror slap. * Shoot tethered to a computer or using a remote shutter release. * Use a high quality tripod (and consider hanging some weight from the hook).
Depending on the how long the duration of shots may be, the camera may need to be hooked up to a AC power supply kit. This is especially true if you use "live view" settings that keep the LCD display on the back of the camera active.
Image editing software can help correct shifts that could happen in an animation or time lapse shot, but the process can be labor intensive. Obviously it's better to get the shot correct in the camera. Gusty winds or a not absolutely steady shooting platform can wreck a shot. I don't think I would try shooting a time lapse sequence from the deck of a boat!
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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 11-14-2009 10:47 PM
quote: Mark Ogden It's already been done as a feature
Yes, I know, I thought that was pretty cool. Only, they had about 15 cameras, with several setups working simultaneously. Mine will have to be on one. As I recall, they also had alignment problems from one frame to the next, which had to be corrected in software. quote: Bobby Henderson Use the mirror lock-up function to eliminate vibrations caused by mirror slap.
Great! Didn't know about that feature. Thanks for all the good suggestions!
Btw, I shot some time-lapse back in the 70s on 16mm. I learned to not even attempt to compensate for exposure changes. On a sunset, for example, set it either for the twilight or the nighttime and let everything else fall where it may. The resulting smoothness was worth any temporary over or under exposure.
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