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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Digital Cinema Forum   » Real D & Dolby 3-D - What is the difference? (Page 4)

 
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Author Topic: Real D & Dolby 3-D - What is the difference?
Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 12-17-2008 03:11 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Actually, I'm looking into doing dual-strip 3D projection via Dolby. I have a couple of theatres with white screens and 3D capability plus Digital projection. Mounting 3D filters in each projector for such an event would be VASTLY preferable to mounting a Silver screen just for a screening or two. And nobody is interested in showing the day-to-day films on a silver screen.

Steve

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Tristan Lane
Master Film Handler

Posts: 444
From: Nampa, Idaho
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 - posted 12-17-2008 04:08 PM      Profile for Tristan Lane   Email Tristan Lane   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Julio Roberto
If you go the Dolby route (for dual projection too), I think a Dolby server is necessary, although Doremi has reached an agreement with Dolby to support the format as well in their servers.
Doremi has the capability now to support Dolby 3D. Any server running 5.2.22 SP1 or better will support the DFC-100.

Steve, If you are running dual strip 3D through the Infitec filters, how are you color-correcting? Is the film being struck with the proper color, or are you making field modifications. Or is color correction even required?

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 12-17-2008 05:09 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Color correction is the least of my concerns at this point...if need be that could be done as well, though. Who is color correcting release prints? They aren't uniform from reel to reel!

Steve

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Scott Norwood
Film God

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From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-17-2008 06:02 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The color correction would be a show-stopper for use outside of special venues if it required new prints. But if the Dolby system could be used with existing prints, it would make 2-strip exhibition much cheaper and more practical for occasional use by eliminating the silver screen requirement. For the sort of theatre that might show 2-strip a few times per year, the issues with collecting and cleaning the glasses would be minimal.

I'm not naive enough to assume that 2-strip prints might be made of new releases, but there are good prints of House of Wax, Dial M, Kiss Me Kate, and other older titles that people would want to see presented properly.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 12-17-2008 08:18 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thats just it...providing the color was "acceptable"...it would...the benefits would far outweigh other factors. Occasionally putting up a silver screen is a MUCH bigger hassle than occasionally having to deal with the glasses.

Most lamphouses/consoles have a spot for a heat filter...that is where the Dolby filters can go or even a bracket fabricated in front of that, if you need the heat filter (probably not a bad idea since you want to protect the expensive Dolby filters.

This sort of thing would mean that special venues could run 3D just as they run their regular programming...no big deal...just insert the filters, verify alignment and show...and just as fast, back to 2D mode. And given the amount of 3D shows in the venues I'm thinking about...the 500 uses would be a VERY long time!

Steve

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Ron Funderburg
Jedi Master Film Handler

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From: Chickasha, Oklahoma, USA
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 - posted 12-17-2008 09:46 PM      Profile for Ron Funderburg   Author's Homepage   Email Ron Funderburg   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Steve I'm curious is this a 2 projector system or a single projector? We are talking digital 3d here right?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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 - posted 12-17-2008 10:14 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
He would have to use the Dolby Server... For Dolby 3-D the color correction in 3-D is all done in the Show Player on the color coefficients page... it is not done in the projector... this could happen assuming he is using actual calibrated Dolby filters, the algorithms are specific to those filters!! He would probably also have to make a bulb change or use a ND filter to go from 2-D to 3-D since there isn't a single lamp made that can vary that much... In fact Christie doesn't reccomend even touching, rotating, or switching back and forth lamps once a large wattage lamp is installed and running.

Mark

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Mark J. Marshall
Film God

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From: New Castle, DE, USA
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 - posted 12-18-2008 08:35 AM      Profile for Mark J. Marshall     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't imagine the color correction would be much of an issue on the film unless I'm missing something. Your brain mixes the colors from the two images together pretty easily. When we saw Gog at the first 3D fest, one eye was as pink as pink could be, and the other had probably > 90% of its color. The result when viewed through both eyes was an image that looked slightly faded. So I don't think it will be much of an issue. Especially if you're showing older movies. Your audience would expect the color to be slightly off anyway if it came to that. But then again, Creature From The Black Lagoon, Mad Magician, Revenge Of The Creature, It Came From Outer Space, ... they're all black and white. So I wonder how that would look.

I'd be very curious to hear how Dolby 3D works out for you Steve if you decide to try it.

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Julio Roberto
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 - posted 12-18-2008 10:09 AM      Profile for Julio Roberto     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Well, indeed the brain is very forgiving to stereo color disparities (differences in color per eye) and it's hardly is a problem as long as the luminance levels are kept the same (which hardly ever happens in anaglyph system, hence the headaches and difficulty of fusing the images).

Look at this graph.

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/7522/infiteccolor1cg5.jpg

Dolby 3D has a reduced color space, but reasonable.

Also, each eye has a different colorspace.

But everything inside the red triangle in the map i.e. can be displayed fine on both eyes while each subimage being properly blocked by the proper eye.

But of course you need to "move" (color correct) each image independently to make it fit in there as best as possible.

I don't know how much people would object to not color corrected images. For once, same colors (those outside the gamut) would look washed out (they would basically be sharply cut off by the filters). Then, the remaining ones would seem to "flicker" a bit (as each eye would be seeing them differently).

Uncorrected white would not look white.

Certainly not the kind of thing you want in a festival neccesarily, but perhaps doable.

Two "identical" (stereo pair) black and white pictures .... hummm ... I wonder how that would look. I have never actually seen a black a white image through an infitec system.

Where do you get that much stereo black and white material? Most movies in the 50's were color. Sure a few black and white too, but not that many.

And we won't mention that about +80% of the light is lost.

But at least there won't be buttery popcorn to leave fingerprints on the $28 glasses [Smile]

Dolby has the advantage of the best extintion ratio, though (least ghosting). It's "roughly":

-Better than 250:1 for linear polarized (as long as you keep your head perfectly aligned with the screen). You lose >66% of the light. Of course having to use a silver screen, with gains of over 2.0, it also means that you get most of that light back. Kind of. Most sensitive to orientation of all systems (i.e. those not sitting centered from the screen may start seeing more ghosting). It uses the cheapest glasses and filters.

-Better than 100:1 for circular polarized (like Real-3D, you can rotate your head around). Worse extinction of all systems (largest ghosting or "double images"). You lose >70% of the light. Not so sensitive on orientation. Glasses and filters are a bit more expensive than linear.

-Better than 1000:1 for Dolby 3D. Move your head around all you want. Least ghosting by far. You lose >80% of the light. The color space is somewhat reduced and changed, but very generous and unnoticeable when color corrected. The glasses and filters cost an arm and a leg. Not sensitive to orientation or any such issues. Unless you use a gain screen to get some increase in brightness. But even then, the angle doesn't affect the extinction, only your usual potential problem with hotspotting and the like that happens with high gain screens.

Infitec had been selling their filters for home projectors for about $100 pair for a while before they made the deal with Dolby 3D for digital cinema. Several vendors sold an external color-correction box. The Infitec glasses have always been over $40 a pair, even $60 at some point. (Dolby just lowered theirs from $38 to $27).

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Tristan Lane
Master Film Handler

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From: Nampa, Idaho
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 - posted 12-18-2008 11:39 AM      Profile for Tristan Lane   Email Tristan Lane   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
He would have to use the Dolby Server...
Mark, not any more. Like I said above, Doremi can support Dolby3D as well. We plan on utilizing it soon. That means I'll have a show player that I dont' know what to do with.

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Mark J. Marshall
Film God

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From: New Castle, DE, USA
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 - posted 12-19-2008 11:49 AM      Profile for Mark J. Marshall     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Julio Roberto
You lose >80% of the light
Do you mean you RETAIN > 80% of the light / lose < 20% ?

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Julio Roberto
Jedi Master Film Handler

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 - posted 12-19-2008 12:03 PM      Profile for Julio Roberto     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I meant you lose over 80% of the light coming out of the projector, or rather, that the projector would be capable of delivering to the eye without the 3D system (filter/glasses combination).

Think that, for the very nature of the system, the need to split the light between 2 eyes so that only 1 sees it while the other blocks it 100%, necessarily means that such a system can only have a brightness of 50% of the level it would normally output at best (considering a "natural" unpolarized light source of wide "natural" spectrum).

Because no system is "perfect" and each layer of filters adds an additional 2% or 3% percent loss at best, even the best theoretical system would imply a light loss of 54%. Such system doesn't exist, and the very best you can get good results with is about 63% loss (37% efficiency).

Infitec filters, at least when they first started to manufacture them, had 12 filters plus other surfaces. Something like 16 layers total, IIRC.

And you have the ones in the projector and then the ones on the glasses to go through. Yeah, it's no fun for the lamp to keep up with that. Hence a gain screen is, from my point of view, almost a requirement for most Dolby 3D systems.

I don't know what currently Dolby specs, but usually Infitec systems only allow about 15% of the light to cross them. Coupled with the glasses, it wasn't unusual to see only 13% of the total light you started with. I think Dolby's is only a couple of % points above that, something like 18% efficiency (blocks 82% of the available light). Maybe a bit more, though, but definetly under 20%.

When you use a gain screen, you of course see an increase in brightness for some people in the audience. I'm talking comparing with the result in a 1.0 gain screen you would get with a "plain" projector and one with the 3D system fitted when looking through the glasses to a 1.0 gain screen (if such thing existed for polarized systems, i.e.).

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Mark J. Marshall
Film God

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From: New Castle, DE, USA
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 - posted 12-19-2008 01:56 PM      Profile for Mark J. Marshall     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ah, I think I see what you're saying.

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Jack Ondracek
Film God

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 - posted 12-19-2008 03:09 PM      Profile for Jack Ondracek   Author's Homepage   Email Jack Ondracek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK... how bout this?

Is there any particular reason, aside from screen gain and the cost of glasses, why Dolby 3D wouldn't work at a drive-in?

BTW... we've done the anaglyphs. How do the Klingons spell it?... Gaach!

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Julio Roberto
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 - posted 12-19-2008 03:24 PM      Profile for Julio Roberto     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Jack Ondracek
OK... how bout this?

Is there any particular reason, aside from screen gain and the cost of glasses, why Dolby 3D wouldn't work at a drive-in?

I think it should work fine. But it would be hard to get reasonable light levels. Perhaps stacking 4 projectors. But I don't know if any servers support quadruple projection. A very high gain screen in a drive-in may not be very effective, as it probably needs to cover a wide angle area.

Here is part of a flyer by Barco when they were selling the infitec system. The active version (basically like what Dolby 3D has now) only allowed 7% of the light to reach the eyes. Or, rather, 7% of the perceived brightness that the same projector/screen would've been capable of if it didn't use the 3D system.

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/1339/infitecbarcohr5.jpg

Efficiency in dual systems seems to be higher now, possibly due to the blanking interval in active systems:

http://www.barco.com/entertainment/en/stereoscopic/lumens.asp

Real-3D may not work fine due to a number of issues. Real D themselves admit that their system is not recommended (doesn't work well enough) for images over 60 feet wide (due to the limited angle to which the zscreen works). Not sure with their newer XL model.

On very large screens, I think a larger zscreen would be needed and placed a bit farther from the lens, but not much. Anything above about 15º and the zscreen start to not effectively rotate the polarization in the corners of the image.

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