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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Digital Cinema Forum   » Real D & Dolby 3-D - What is the difference? (Page 7)

 
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Author Topic: Real D & Dolby 3-D - What is the difference?
Julio Roberto
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Posts: 938
From: Madrid, Madrid, Spain
Registered: Oct 2008


 - posted 01-15-2009 01:09 AM      Profile for Julio Roberto     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Both systems, Real-D and Dolby, "suck up" a lot of light. At least 70%. On some setups, as much as 85%.

That means it would roughly leave you with an image that is 1/4 as bright as your projector/setup would otherwise normally do 2D.

As a result, all the light you can get from those systems is of help.

One way to get more light to the audience is by getting a high gain screen. If you use a high gain screen, both 2D and 3D images would appear "twice as bright" (i.e.) to those sitting in the preferred cone of illumination for the screen.

As a result, you can lower the lamp output for 2D. But with 3D, even a high gain screen would still need a boost. Remember you only got (roughly) less than 1/4 of the needed light. If you double that up with a high gain screen, you are still 1/2 short. Only half way through to the same 2D level.

Since Real D basically needs a silver screen, and these are usually of very high gain, there is no "way" around it anyway. But yes, Real D benefits from high watt lamps for 3D as much as from a gain screen, so usually both are needed (and resulting light levels are still under 6fl in many cases).

Say you are currently using a 3000w lamp with a 35mm (or digital) projector. If you change your screen from matte white to a silver 2.4 gain screen, all of the sudden you could start using (roughly) a 1500w lamp to obtain the same light level for the select group of individuals sitting in the screen's "preferred cone". If your theaters is very wide, this could be a problem, as audience sitting on the front corners could start seeing a seriously dimmed image.

That's why a silver screen is said to be very directional. It helps convey a brighter image to those sitting in front of it at the expense of a darker image those sitting "on the sides" at wide angles.

Dolby 3D doesn't require a silver screen, and could use a regular matte (or low gain) one. But since it also requires some sort of brightness boosting to obtain good light levels, besides a brighter projector's lamp, a high gain screen (silver or not) may be the most effective way to obtain it.

Color on silver screens preferred cone of illumination can be fine, but if you are sitting close to the screen the colors may seem to dull-out as you look at the corners of the screen as the angle increases. Some silver formulation also have a different gain figures for different light wavelenghts (different colors). This can be compensated by color correcting the digital projector, though.

Real-D decided that their business model was going to obtain a stream revenue from movie theaters by charging them yearly contract prices and percentages on 3D tickets (surcharges) in return for installing/mantaining the Zscreen and supplying glasses.

Bill of material COST of paper glasses from Real-D are about 1 cent each. Manufacturing COST would depend on whoever is manufacturing them's operation effeciency. Regardless, it is always below 25cents per pair, possibly 10cents after everybody is accounted for. Remember manufacturing COSTS don't really mean much. You have to account for transportation, warehousing, taxes, profits, etc.

Dolby doesn't charge a percentage royalty or yearly "lease". But they do charge (dearly) for their glasses. Their manufacturing cost is far (far-far) more expensive, and they retail for about $28 each to theaters. As a result, they can not be given away or anything like that. A system has to be put in place to recover them from the audience, clean them, and reuse them.

Still, the cost of replacing broken/lost/scratched/whatever glasses is significant, and Dolby's business model is to obtain a regular stream of income by selling these glasses.

RealD could also do the same if they wanted. Charge a couple thousand for the 3D adapter and sell glasses at 40cents each and profit from that. I'm not sure why they didn't go that way. I guess they were afraid soon they'll have competition on the price of the glasses from cheaper manufacturers. By using their "royalties" contract, the glasses are "free" (pre-paid) to the theater and therefore it doesn't make sense the theater owner would look at another (cheaper) glasses' supplier.

Similar systems to RealD could come up in the market, though, as the technology is in no way exclusive to them. A similar system with a rotating disc (instead of a LC plate) was said to be marketed for theater usage. But the market is not too large and I doubt many people would be interested in a couple thousand 3D screens and a couple of 3D movies per year in a market with already 3 or 4 strong players (RealD, Dolby, Masterimage, Xpand).

Xpand system doesn't need any special screens or any modification to the projectors whatsoever. A simple interface box connects to your projector and a transmitter broadcasts a signal in the auditorium. Their active glasses select the appropiate image for each eye. Light loss is similar to other systems. The dissadvantage, as in Dolby's case, is the cost and life of the glasses. When Xpand's glasses batteries die, it's time to purchase a new pair. Collecting them and washing them for reuse is also a good idea if you don't want to go bankrupt.

Masterimage has also an Infitec (Dolby) copy-cat product, but I haven't seen it and I don't know if it carries a price advantage (probably). Perhaps they are just also reselling Infitec's products like Dolby is.

Real D's system is the worse in crosstalk. It means is the most likely to produce double images (ghosting). As a result, they want to pre-process the films to KILL THE CONTRAST on those parts of the image where the parallax (I guess you could call it the 3D) is too large *and* the foreground and background contrast is too large (i.e. a foreground flashlight in a dark, distant background).

So their "ghostbusting" pre-process is but another image-quality-killer for the already not-so-hot digital 3D images of today.

Remember the 3D reality of today compared with 2D:
-increased JPEG2K compression
-half the color resolution 4:2:2 sampling, reduced color depth 10bits
-reduced resolution on projectors older than a few months (TI chipset not able to cope with full 2K 48fps)
-reduced light levels with dim 4fl images
-144hz "flicker"
-High gain screen's "artifacts"
-and now, "ghostbusted prints" with contrast wiped out in "hot" 3D areas ...

And, of course, a tiny bit of image "quality" is loss when the images go through a system like real-d's zcreen (unlike dolby's, where the filter goes BEFORE the imager, not in front of it, although Dolby adds reduced colorspace to their lists of cons) and ALL systems always suffer somewhat when the image goes through (doubious quality) glasses. But that's just minute compared to all the rest.

Don't we just all love 3D [Smile]

It's digital, so we know it's perfect.

[ 01-15-2009, 08:40 AM: Message edited by: Julio Roberto ]

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

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 - posted 01-15-2009 08:35 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark is not entirely correct on his color...Silver screens muck up the whole color environment. While the color space is indeed set such that you know 4 points of the space (the pure red,green, blue and the middle...white)...with silver screens, you have a very non-linear decay, depending on angle...the net result is often an over-saturated looking image. There is no getting around its metallic look.

Monte...a matte-white screen, by definition is 1.0 gain, period. Anything else calling itself a matte-white, isn't. Typical pearlescent screens are in the 1.4-1.8 gain range. Typical cinema "white" screens, that I've measured are in the 0.9-1.2 gain. Very few screen manufacturers actually hit their published gain on the money. Stewart being an exception to the rule...when I measure Stewarts, they are what they claim to be and some of the prettiest images are on them...but they cost too damn much (4-5 times a cinema screen) and are more fragile than a cinema screen.

Steve

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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 - posted 01-18-2009 08:25 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Ryan Navaroli
After weighing the facts I really hope I can convince him to go Dolby and that it isn't to late contractually.
Also change the BARCO to a Christie of equivelent size and you'll have ALOT more light to utilize and 3-D needs it badly. You'll also be able to get parts and service very fast from Christie wheras BARCO is touch and go and has a real lousy reputation for service after the sale.

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
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 - posted 01-18-2009 08:52 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
went to a competitor's complex yesterday in another city to pick up a print on a circuit and went to the booth that was playing "MBV" to witness this 3D presentation .. and they were using REAL-D 3D.

Right off I could tell of the usage of the silver screen - so directional, high contrast and the "metallic color" as what Steve mentions above with the image...and charging 12 bucks to see this movie.

True, the image was a bit on the dullish side and found out that the NEC Starus 2000 only had a LTI (gasp!) Helios 4200w bulb in it running at 105% of usage.

I wondered if it should have been a 6k for the usage of 3D (as how we did 3D back in the 70's using larger carbons, dichromic mirrors -just to get the extra light out for any 3D usage.)

I was flipping my glasses back and forth from my normal view and the polarized view and did notice a slight drop of light output due to of wearing 3D "sunglasses".

Even though I've never seen Dolby Digital 3D, I could tell that Dolby could be the better system of the two - even though of the glasses rental..

-Monte

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Julio Roberto
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From: Madrid, Madrid, Spain
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 - posted 01-18-2009 10:02 PM      Profile for Julio Roberto     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I just found out the aprox. manufacturing cost of the Dolby glasses from someone that participated in Infitec's development. There is TOOOOONNNNNNSSSS of room for improvement in price. It's mostly a licensing issue.

Whenever they decide to set their price to $15, and I suggest Dolby/Infitec decide to do this quickly, they should "vaporize" Real-D. Or, at least, Real-D is gonna have to do something about it.

I hope Dolby knows that they are losing some customer due to the cost of lost glasses at $28 each and can talk to Infitec about meeting their profit goals a bit further down the road and the advantages of greater market penetration.

As mentioned here, some theaters have switched from Dolby to RealD if only out of the peace-of-mind of not worrying about dealing with the glasses. Some theater owners just refuse to hand out $28 in glasses to each single $7-paying patron on every show of the day, no matter how you run the numbers in front of them. $15 is something more palatable.

Also, Dolby's first intention for the 3D glasses was a $59 retail price. Thank God someone there was thinking straight and we quickly have come down to the $27 "FOB" of today's ...

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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 - posted 01-19-2009 10:03 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Julio Roberto
As a result, you can lower the lamp output for 2D.

Very definately NOT TRUE! The manufacturers of all the high power short gap lamps don't reccomend turning the power down once it is set at a given level. You can only turn it up... if you have any headroom left. Turning the lamp down can cause the crater formed on the anode to change shape and cause the lamp to become unstable rendering it usless. Everyone I know running 3-D has to physically change lamps to a lower wattage lamp. You are still taking a chance ruining the high power lamp even by changing it out and re-installing!! Everything HAS TO BE in exactly the same place for it to work properly again.

Mark

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Julio Roberto
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 - posted 01-19-2009 10:07 AM      Profile for Julio Roberto     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yeah, I didn't make myself clear in that sentence. I agree with you, Mark. I later gave the example of changing a 3KW lamp for a 1.5K ... as theoretical an example, of course.

What I meant by lower the lamp output was ... that you could use a lower watt lamp if you wanted.

Cheers.

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Jack Ondracek
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 - posted 01-20-2009 05:18 AM      Profile for Jack Ondracek   Author's Homepage   Email Jack Ondracek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Everything HAS TO BE in exactly the same place for it to work properly again.

Sort of blows the notion of rotating your bulbs, doesn't it?

...though that's the way most every bulb I've used seems to work at my place... leave it alone until it decides it's done. [Wink]

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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 - posted 01-20-2009 08:27 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Jack Ondracek
Sort of blows the notion of rotating your bulbs, doesn't it?


Exactly! Christie at least has the same philosophy. Don't rotate the lamp!! Even though there are pop up's on the TCP and CDP's of their projectors to remind you to do so. Hopefully in the next version of firmware that will disappear. They just want you to perform a "lamploc" adjustment at that point instead.

Mark

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

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 - posted 01-20-2009 10:35 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
While I'm a mostly "never rotate" your lamps sort of guy...I have happened upon situations where rotating on a regular basis helps...steep down angles (approaching or above 10-degrees).

I've also encountered, on one of the digital lamps (CDXL) where rotating calmed down a flicker.

As to raising/lowering lamp current...there are many factors in play...including how much burn back the lamp has experienced, how the electrodes have burned...etc. I have not experienced pronounced premature life in lowering the current back on a lamp and have serveral installations (including film) where the lamp current is indeed adjusted to achieve desired light. Heck, Kinoton even has an option for 3 preset light levels (when using a switch mode rectifier with a suitable 0-10V input).

Like everything else in life...there are no absolutes.

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Louis Bornwasser
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 - posted 01-21-2009 07:37 AM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Julio: check Dolby's new lower price for glasses! Louis

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Brian Guckian
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 - posted 01-24-2009 12:47 PM      Profile for Brian Guckian   Email Brian Guckian   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Both systems, Real-D and Dolby, "suck up" a lot of light. At least 70%. On some setups, as much as 85%.

quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Turning the lamp down can cause the crater formed on the anode to change shape and cause the lamp to become unstable rendering it usless
This seems to pose a considerable engineering and design challenge (i.e. accommodating the extremes in light levels required to accommodate both 3-D and 2-D).

Anybody know of design approaches that are being tried at the moment or is that confidential?

I'm thinking of things like dual lightsources, or approaches to increase the light efficiency of 3-D display to narrow the divide vis-a-vis 2-D. The stacked machine option seems a very expensive way of going about things at present, and continuing to have to physically change out lamps is probably not desirable either.

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Claude S. Ayakawa
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 - posted 01-24-2009 02:39 PM      Profile for Claude S. Ayakawa   Author's Homepage   Email Claude S. Ayakawa   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
As an infrequent movie theatre patron, I have now seen movies in both Real D and Dolby 3-D and found them to be almost identical as far as achieving good 3-D. When some films are projected dark and I have to pay almost forty percent more for the privilege seeing them in that process, I think I will have to be very selective with 3-D films from now on. With the exception of the Hannah Montana concert film and BOLT, I think I had seen all of the digital 3-D films. I have noticed that most of the digital 3-D films so far has been animated with the exception of MBV and JTTCOTE and all of the upcoming ones in the next couple of months are also animated. Why is that? I have found with the exception of Pixar's films, animated films are very boring because they tend to appeal to children.

-Claude

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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 - posted 01-24-2009 05:22 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree Claude! The quality and over population of the types of 3-D films is not a good thing. I don't believe there are alot of cameras available for shooting 3-D they way they normally shoot 2-D films. That may be why there is a shortage of live action stuff.

Mark

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Hillary Charles
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 - posted 01-24-2009 06:30 PM      Profile for Hillary Charles   Email Hillary Charles   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I read that so many of the new 3D films are computer animated because it is much easier to control the various aspects of 3D in a virtual world (DOF, convergence, interocular) and get the proper results when compared to live action.

Like you Claude, I do prefer to see live action 3D, but am interested in the upcoming "Monsters vs. Aliens."

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