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Topic: What kind of car does everyone drive?

Mike Blakesley
Film God

Posts: 12767
From: Forsyth, Montana
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-21-2014 09:32 AM

quote: Richard Hamilton
the price they gave me was for a 5 quart jug

Well buying the jug would save you a little at least!

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Steve Matz
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 672
From: Billings, Montana, USA
Registered: Sep 2003

posted 08-21-2014 11:24 AM

Richard; Harbor Frieght has Car Ramps that are reasonably priced. I don't recommend Jacking up your Car to change the oil & filter; more for Safety Sake than anything. Ramps are Safe and you can get under the Engine and do what you need to do. You may also want to buy a Creeper to have better manuvability under
your car...

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=car+ramps

I have seen a number of people using the #68365 on full size Cars. NO PROBLEMS! The #67722 are just as good also!

MY CHOICE: The Magnum 16000'S ....SAME PRICE!

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-21-2014 01:04 PM

Like I said in another post Steve... You go right ahead and stick with those liquid fossils. I'll stick with the synthetic stuff, and my engine is also going to be way cleaner inside, likely looking like new after 200K miles...

Mike pretty much nailed it on the head from a cost standpoint... The extra wear protection and wider temperature operating range it offers is worth the 32 bucks a year alone. Some times I change my own oil and sometimes I don't... I have been leaning lately more towards having it done just because having to dispose of the old oil is an added hassle. I frankly don't hang out much at auto parts stores or garages because my vehicles rarely ever break down.

quote: Mike Blakesley
If you drive a car 15,000 miles a year, you would drive 100,000 miles in about 6 1/2 years. If you change the oil every 7,000, that's about 14 oil changes. If synthetic costs $3 a quart more than regular oil and you use 5 quarts in a change, that's $210 more that you've spent in those miles, or $32 a year. It's not exactly major bucks.

Here is a video form Brad's mechanic that's just down the street form Film-Tech. Let that "less friction" aspect sink in a little bit there Steveo.

Brad's Mechanic On Synthetic vs. Regular Oil

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Steve Matz
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 672
From: Billings, Montana, USA
Registered: Sep 2003

posted 08-21-2014 03:53 PM

Well all I can say is People are going to use what they want and believe as far as Choosing what oil to Run in their Engines.Arguing which is better is futual because Most people are caught up in advertising hype and generally believe what they see and hear on TV,Magazines,etc. I have built a lot of Both Motorcycle and Automotive Engines over a 50+ year span and I can't remember ever having any Engine Failures(Racing Engines also) and having excessive wear tolerances on torn down Race Motors concerning use of petroleum oils.

Just like the 1st video said; most Synthetic Oils are not pure Synthetic,many still have petroleum additives;only a small number are pure 100% synthetic and those will be the most expensive. I would bet if you talked with a TECH from the "AMERICAN PETROLEUM INSTITUTE"(API)which aren't getting paid from any company when they grade oil,will tell you that probably 90% of the Engines that the MFGer's Customer manual emphasize using Synthetic Oil will tell you it's not neccessary. As far as Friction and Break down comparisons.(Read Below)

HARLEY-DAVIDSON when it was R&Ding The Alloy XR750 Race Engine back in 1970;Put an Engine on a Test Stand and ran it 200 straight hours using CASTROL R Oil. The engine ran hours at idle and low rpm as well as Redline(8500RPM)continuously. When they tore the Engine down and measured every piece relating to Reciprocating and Rotating Parts; the most wear which was only .001(thousandth of an inch) was in the Piston/Cylinder wall clearance.This being a short stroke engine(79mm) which generally because of extreme Con Rod Angularity tend to wear faster than a Long Stroke configuration; in short this engine was still in like new condition. So saying that Premium grade petroleum oils break down easier and sooner is BS. BTW: This same engine design is still being used by HD in AMA Grandnational DT Racing going into it's 42nd straight year...

I'm done posting on this Subject...Use what you want to use;it's supposedly still a Free Country!

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-21-2014 07:08 PM

Steve...

I don't need to talk to a tech from the oil industry nor do I pay attention to,advertising hype. LaVezzi did all that leg work for us many years ago on the research side. I have seen the mileage increase on my Hummer when I switched to all synthetics in the drive train. I have seen first hand the life span and accumulated crud of projectors running mineral base vs. Synthetic. I was convinced of it's advantages from what I saw in projectors long before the Hummer came along.

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 08-21-2014 09:26 PM

From oil to sparkplugs: Whether to use standard copper core, or get buggered in to using IR, or Platinum?

My turbo setup uses standard copper core, but with the grooved electrodes. I change those out every 12k miles

My KIA uses IR plugs and even they are supposed to last until the block freezes up, I plan on doing a change when the block hit 50K miles.

I refuse to use Platinum since platinum is such a poor conductor of electricity.

-Monte

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Buck Wilson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 894
From: St. Joseph MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2010

posted 08-21-2014 11:29 PM

Basically all about choice. The cheaper copper plugs conduct the best but last the least amount of time. Then Platinum, then Iridium.

I use whatever the car came with factory. Though if it called for copper, I tend to bump up at least to platinum because I just really don't like changing plugs that often, especially in a transversely mounted V6 engine driving the front wheels. Those back 3 are just.......... the worst.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 08-21-2014 11:45 PM

I remember, with a Dodge V6 Caravan we had, I had that wild hair up where the sun doesn't shine to try platinum plugs.

Thus went with those Bosch +4 plugs, which was a total mistake!

My mileage dropped horribly to where I yanked them out after two months being installed and went back to copper core with grooved electrodes to get my mileage back.

Yes, the back three are a pain to get to, but with the right extensions, it really isn't that all bad to do that changeout.

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Steve Matz
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 672
From: Billings, Montana, USA
Registered: Sep 2003

posted 08-22-2014 02:35 AM

Here is a Champion Racing Plug(N57R)that we used in the BSA and Triumph Twins back in the 60's and early 70's. The Ground Electrode is recessed back inside so as to avoid being hit with a High Compression/High domed Piston when reaching TDC.You needed a special tool to set the gap which was generally .025
They were Cold Plugs and could foul easy if you did excessive lugging around the pits warming up your engine.

The old Harley Racing V-twin called the KR would generally run an N57R in the front cylinder and a N54R in the rear to compensate for the lack of air that wasn't getting to the rear cylinder. Generally even though the rear cylinder still heated up to excess they generally could finish even a longer race on Mile Tracks. However my Good Friend who was leading the 50 mile AMA Springfield National back around 66. He lead from the start to 49 and 3/4 miles before on the final turn 3 had his engine go dead.He had burned a hole in the rear piston and ended up finishing last an losing a substancial Payday which he had in the bag until the piston failure. Even going 3 steps colder in heat range didn't keep the HOG from lunching that piston;one of the disadvantages of a V-Twin not being able to cool the rear cylinder like the front from lack of airflow being blocked by the front cylinder.

They were good Plugs although we generally also used NGK's with external ground electrode when we were sure they wouldn't get hit by the piston. I see these old plugs selling on Ebay anywhere from 5 dollars to 30 dollars a piece for NOS. they sold for about a $1.50 ea in the early 70's...If you ran these in a Car Engine lugging around town, you would probably be losing cylinders at a fast rate... [Eek!]

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99

posted 08-22-2014 10:13 AM

Steve,

I used a set of those plugs on a pair of BX-80's and they fouled up almost immediately. I'll stick with the synthetic plugs for now!

Mark

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Buck Wilson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 894
From: St. Joseph MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2010

posted 08-22-2014 10:50 AM

quote: Monte L Fullmer
I remember, with a Dodge V6 Caravan we had, I had that wild hair up where the sun doesn't shine to try platinum plugs.

Thus went with those Bosch +4 plugs, which was a total mistake!

My mileage dropped horribly to where I yanked them out after two months being installed and went back to copper core with grooved electrodes to get my mileage back.

Yes, the back three are a pain to get to, but with the right extensions, it really isn't that all bad to do that changeout.

Monte, those plugs are indeed horrible. Any more than one ground strap and you're just wasting your time and money, and they do exactly as you described. There is a good platinum stock option, ACDelco rapidfires, that aren't completely retarded and I've never had a problem with.

As for rear plug access, I know they aren't all bad, but some are..... and this is what I'm dealing with:

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Steve Matz
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 672
From: Billings, Montana, USA
Registered: Sep 2003

posted 08-22-2014 03:52 PM

Here is an old trick procedure Racers did to Sparkplugs to permit better Flame Travel by unshrouding the Spark. It works in
street applications and will help your gas mileage along with HP
increase if you have an efficient ignition. It is called Side-Gapping and has been used for decades. Don't spend a lot of money on a Plug when you with a little time and effort can produce a Plug as good as any expensive Performance or Race type Plug. I have done this for years on SB & BB Chevy engines that I built going back to dual point distributor days...

With Modern High Energy Ignitions using a 20 to 50,000 volt coil per cylinder it works even more efficiently. Take your time;follow the directions in the link photos and you will be more than pleased with the results in your engine...

http://www.instructables.com/id/Save-Gas-And-Incerase-Horsepower-By-Side-Gapping-S/

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 08-22-2014 10:38 PM

Question on "side gapping:" - with this setup, wouldn't the electrode experience more wear along with the ground tang wear causing the gap to widen more sooner?

Be interesting to try out on some old plugs I have .. and have the Dremel tools available.

Buck: with that V6 setup of yours, that's a "ramp and crawl underneath the car" job to get to the back three !

-Monte

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Steve Matz
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 672
From: Billings, Montana, USA
Registered: Sep 2003

posted 08-23-2014 01:45 AM

quote: Monte L Fullmer
Question on "side gapping:" - with this setup, wouldn't the electrode experience more wear along with the ground tang wear causing the gap to widen more sooner?

Monte; I had a little concern about that myself when GM started using HEI Distributors in the mid 70's; but saw no wear difference than an older points Type. The convincer is My brother restored a 1964 Comet about a year and a half ago. He put a 347 Stroker SB from Ford racing in it.I did his Plugs(Autolite) back then and he was using a MSD 6AL Ignition Setup. Now that's a High Energy Ignition.He originally had a Holly 4779 750cfm Doublepumper on it and decided he wanted a Vacuum Secondary 3310 for some better gas mileage and more street ability.

The plugs had already been in the engine almost a year and no problems. When he rejetted the 3310 and did a couple fullout Redline passes;then pulled the plugs to see if was still running rich or not; He told me the electrode still looked the same and the plug gap was still right at .035...If that Ignition didn't hurt those plugs and the 50,000 volt MSD Coils that guys are putting on the LS Motors aren't; than there's nothing to worry about...GO FOR IT! (slightly chamfer the edges with a points file or even a woman's nail file;then no hot spots!

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Richard Hamilton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1341
From: Evansville, Indiana
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 08-23-2014 04:23 AM

Guess where I'll be this afternoon!! CAR SHOW!

Over 4000 custom cars [thumbsup]

This week reminds me of when I lived in St. Augustine. The streets would be packed with bikes because of Daytona's bike week. Here it's just old hot rods and muscle cars filling up the streets.

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